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Linn LP12 upgrade suggestions

mega lord said:
I was aware of that but I don't exactly know why it won't fit ? Anybody know ?
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Yes, I know exactly why. When designing the RubiKon I took advantage of the fact that it included the arm board to slightly readjust the centre of gravity (lower it). This also meant that the main bearing mounted to a much thicker, and so stiffer, layer of aluminium. However, this also means that the Karousel thread is effectively shortened and the attaching nut will sit some 3mm higher. My concern was that this would cause the top of the nut to foul the centre boss of the inner platter. However, I know of one person who machined the Karousel nut a little thinner to overcome this issue and another Karousel owner was kind enough to loan me theirs so I could take close measurements and 3D model it. It’s all documented on the AudioFlat Forum somewhere. In conclusion, I believe a Karousel bearing will fit. It is also possible to replace the locking nut with an, off the shelf, SS one that is thinner.
 
I’d get a thinner off the shelf nut....... why on earth Linn didn’t thicken up the bearing area when they did the keel makes no sense.
Just ordered a Karousel, will fit it myself and measure it up first, as I’ve been designing and making my own mods for a second LP12.

I’d concentrate on anything that can reduce motor vibration feeding into the deck first . Then a rigid chassis upgrade.
 
Paul Hindle said:
Check out the Teddy Pardo LP12.

6-AF780-FA-2143-49-B6-90-B7-EC0-E34-A81-F9-C.jpg
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I'd like to see how the motor is attached to this LP12?
 
9designs said:
I’d get a thinner off the shelf nut....... why on earth Linn didn’t thicken up the bearing area when they did the keel makes no sense.
Just ordered a Karousel, will fit it myself and measure it up first, as I’ve been designing and making my own mods for a second LP12.

I’d concentrate on anything that can reduce motor vibration feeding into the deck first . Then a rigid chassis upgrade.
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I’m not in the UK right now so can’t check the exact thread size, but I do remember the Karousel uses a standard metric thread (but fine pitch). When I was loaned a Karousel I went as far as to order a stainless steel nut from eBay and it screws on just fine - so it’s not idle conjecture by me. If you couple this with a matching washer (also available from eBay) you will have a structure that is just as rigid as the Linn one (you could even get two thin nuts and use the second as lock nut - though this isn’t really necessary).
 
Paul Hindle said:
I can’t find a picture that shows it but I believe there is a DC motor, pulley and belt under the platter. I can only imagine a custom bracket holds it in place.
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I think it may be in a stand-alone pod that sits on the main table top. I do think it’s a DC motor though and there may well be two (I have my own thoughts on this but that’s another story).
 
9designs said:
... why on earth Linn didn’t thicken up the bearing area when they did the keel makes no sense.
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I believe it is to ensure retrofitability for Cirkus and pre-Cirkus bearings. I ran my Greenstreet Klone first with a pre-Cirkus before getting a Karousel. The thickness of the mounting area determines platter height.
 
YNWOAN said:
I think it may be in a stand-alone pod that sits on the main table top. I do think it’s a DC motor though and there may well be two (I have my own thoughts on this but that’s another story).
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Maybe @yairf could enlighten us. Might be a nice winter project to try and actually build something similar. I think it could be done very cheaply with a budget arm/cart and the right tools. I’ve already thought about a few components, maybe Pro-Ject turntable feet, polythene rod for legs and silicone bushes to connect the subchassis. The motor is the tricky (and arguably most important bit). Maybe a granite plinth, as you say standalone would be the way to go.

Maybe a little off topic…..
 
James said:
I believe it is to ensure retrofitability for Cirkus and pre-Cirkus bearings. I ran my Greenstreet Klone first with a pre-Cirkus before getting a Karousel. The thickness of the mounting area determines platter height.
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You can maintain cirkus fitment with a thicker section, just longer screws. (Would prevent a Tranquility with out some cunning cut outs) What becomes an issue is the clearance to the underside of the top plate. Easily fixed by having a bigger hole. Funny enough that's what I've done on my design, now it's confirmed a standard nut will fit a Karousel I could also maintain forward compatibility... cool.
Another idea would be to thicken and thread the chassis and screw the Karousel in and use a thin lock nut on top.

My motor no longer mounts to the top plate ;)
Has it's own mounting block. Thus reducing the effect of motor vibration and hopefully the need for very expensive motor and PSU upgrades like a Radikal, or do both for the ultimate set-up !
 
I heard somewhere that a Radikal DC motor sourced directly from the manufacturer could be had for around £100-200. Trade sales only I presume.
 
Paul Hindle said:
I heard somewhere that a Radikal DC motor sourced directly from the manufacturer could be had for around £100-200. Trade sales only I presume.
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I think the Mober PSU uses the same motor as Radikal ? (Some interesting ideas on his Facebook page, had similar chassis idea)
 
9designs said:
My motor no longer mounts to the top plate ;)
Has it's own mounting block. Thus reducing the effect of motor vibration and hopefully the need for very expensive motor and PSU upgrades like a Radikal, or do both for the ultimate set-up !
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When you say it has it's own mounting block you mean it is not directly mounted to the deck to provide better isolation?
 
9designs said:
I think the Mober PSU uses the same motor as Radikal ? (Some interesting ideas on his Facebook page, had similar chassis idea)
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Actually, I don’t think it is. I believe the Mober uses a brushless motor whilst the Linn DC motor (Maxton) uses brushes but has the usual ball race bearing replaced by sleeves (a Maxton option).
 
per-Sony-fied said:
When you say it has it's own mounting block you mean it is not directly mounted to the deck to provide better isolation?
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Not quite that far. It's not mounted on the top plate, but to it's own mounting that is attached to the plinth corner brace. So yes further improving the isolation of motor to chassis. Does require a unique top plate design to match.
 
9designs said:
You can maintain cirkus fitment with a thicker section, just longer screws. (Would prevent a Tranquility with out some cunning cut outs) What becomes an issue is the clearance to the underside of the top plate. Easily fixed by having a bigger hole. Funny enough that's what I've done on my design, now it's confirmed a standard nut will fit a Karousel I could also maintain forward compatibility... cool.
Another idea would be to thicken and thread the chassis and screw the Karousel in and use a thin lock nut on top.

My motor no longer mounts to the top plate ;)
Has it's own mounting block. Thus reducing the effect of motor vibration and hopefully the need for very expensive motor and PSU upgrades like a Radikal, or do both for the ultimate set-up !
Click to expand...

I’m pretty sure the top plate reduces the effect of motor vibrations which is why I found the Tiger Paw Khan to be so effective. I found the torque on the Klamps and bolt in the motor corner something that had to be adjusted by feel. The minimum setting on my torque screw driver was too high.

I found giving those vibrations somewhere to exit the plinth to be beneficial as well.

It would be interesting to see a picture of your solution.
 
John said:
I’m pretty sure the top plate reduces the effect of motor vibrations which is why I found the Tiger Paw Khan to be so effective. I found the torque on the Klamps and bolt in the motor corner something that had to be adjusted by feel. The minimum setting on my torque screw driver was too high.

I found giving those vibrations somewhere to exit the plinth to be beneficial as well.

it would be interesting to see a picture of your solution.
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I found the corner motor bolt was something that needed to be adjusted by ear rather than any torque value as it was so sensitive to over or under tightening.

As regards to the motor bolts I would've thought tight enough to avoid movement would be needed. Any over tightening would not be beneficial.
 
per-Sony-fied said:
I found the corner motor bolt was something that needed to be adjusted by ear rather than any torque value as it was so sensitive to over or under tightening.

As regards to the motor bolts I would've thought tight enough to avoid movement would be needed. Any over tightening would not be beneficial.
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Agree about adjusting the top plate connections by ear.

My comments weren’t meant to include the motor hardware but I agree with what you say. I believe there is a torque value that I used for those.
 
Having to apply specific torques to tune the sound always suggests to me it's a sticky plaster solution to parts not being design properly or working well. Better to design out the problem not rely on loose lossy bolted joints..... Three screws into arm board anyone !!! LOL.
You may detect I'm not a disciple of some dealers/forums preaching of torque settings ;)
 
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