Linn LP12 upgrade suggestions
- Thread starter Chris1234
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- linn lp12 upgrade
per-Sony-fied
Me in another jacket
Got this on my radar. I asked Steve Cobham @ Valhalla electronics similar question & was advised that the motor works in much the same way as the Lingo where it drops in voltage after start up & is aimed to compete with the Lingo 4. Further more, phase angle can be adjusted to your own requirements to help reduce vibration.
It's caught my interest as well.... ok question, how would you determine the correct or better phase angle?
It's vibration reduction that interests me most. Having got my Lingo 1 to perform about as well as my Radikal on my other deck by mechanical mods. So adding this should see well ahead
You adjust the value of the phase shift capacitor to get slightly less or more phase shift and so less or more vibration. ISTR that the "best" capacitor in an Armageddon or clone is 0.2uF, but this is not a favoured value. The common value around this is 0.22 uF but this is not optimal. The fix is to use 2 x 0.1uF in parallel to get to 0.2 exactly. (Apologies if the values are wrong but you get the picture).It's caught my interest as well.... ok question, how would you determine the correct or better phase angle?
It's vibration reduction that interests me most. Having got my Lingo 1 to perform about as well as my Radikal on my other deck by mechanical mods. So adding this should see well ahead
Zombie
pfm Member
From the description:
The stylus and bearing counters are neat.
- Control over motor parameters such as frequencies, phase angle, voltage amplitude via a serial interface. Adjusting these values enables the smoothest motor operation with minimum motor noise and vibration. Values may be written to EEPROM once optimum setup is achieved. The boards will ship with suggested default values but are fully configurable to suit your setup via USB serial connection.
The stylus and bearing counters are neat.
Alun Rains
Jus Juan Cornetto
I have the External Zeus, had it over a year now. Great PSU...
Steve helped me set it up to the best settings remotely via a laptop through the software.
Great guy to deal with.
Steve helped me set it up to the best settings remotely via a laptop through the software.
Great guy to deal with.
Zombie
pfm Member
How did he measure the vibrations? Was it easy to install the LP12 bits?
Alun Rains
Jus Juan Cornetto
Can’t recall re the vibrations. Steve will help you if you ask him with remote support.
Installation was pretty straightforward in the main. The slightly awkward part for me was feeding the thin ribbon cable through for the onboard sensor. It feeds through the centre hole in the top- plate but my deck has a Stack Alto sub-chassis and Karousel bearing fitted which leaves insufficient space to feed the cable through easily. Therefore I had to slacken all the springs to feed the ribbon cable between the sub-chassis and the underside of the top-plate . This mean’t I had to reset the suspension afterwards. Perhaps with a different sub-chassis and or bearing it might negate the need to do this. Hope that helps,
I don't like the sound of that. If the bearing bumps against the cable too often it could damage it. I'd drill a hole for it. Although it's stainless steel it drills pretty easily.
Alun Rains
Jus Juan Cornetto
There is enough space for that not to happen, it was just awkward to feed it through with everything assembled, that’s all.
Zombie
pfm Member
Is the onboard sensor placed between the inner and outer platter?
per-Sony-fied
Me in another jacket
It would seem the 1st part has been answered but equally interesting is the mechanical mods you've done to get it sound like a Radikal.....It's caught my interest as well.... ok question, how would you determine the correct or better phase angle?
It's vibration reduction that interests me most. Having got my Lingo 1 to perform about as well as my Radikal on my other deck by mechanical mods. So adding this should see well ahead
per-Sony-fied
Me in another jacket
Zombie
pfm Member
Thanks, sry, but thought all info and pics where in the description of the external unit.
Alun Rains
Jus Juan Cornetto
Yes it is. Mine sits at circa the 2pm position below the outer platter ..
Probably a whole new thread on it's own, which I haven't decided to post or not (Will upset the purist and possibly some one might monetarise it).
Basically I've divorced the motor from the top plate, making the vibration path from motor to top plate a lot further and hence playing surface/interface. So the more I achieve that the less effect the PSU will have (ignoring speed accuracy which I don't think is a motor issue).
Also running my own first try out of a chassis. At the moment it's 3D printed, to check fit and alignment, but blow me if if doesn't actual work as well! So I''ll next move to hybrid solution of part CNC machined aluminium and 3D printed.
Not easy making before and after comparisons, except a I have another deck that is all Linn to Klimax level. So I have a bench mark, lets say the difference is small compared to the cost delta !
So if I add say a Zues controller, perhaps it will get me to Radikal 2 level LOL...
Alun Rains
Jus Juan Cornetto
Hope you enjoy it too..
per-Sony-fied
Me in another jacket
Wish that snazzy button that comes with the Minos was fittable to the TT on the Zeus rather than fitted to the case. The replacement button not so smart to me.
Alun Rains
Jus Juan Cornetto
The onboard switch for the Minos is also fitted to the External Zeus. The reason the onboard Zeus has the different switch is because it displays the rpm speed of the platter etc. If you aren’t concerned about showing that then I dare say the standard Minos switch could be supplied instead. However you may just as well buy the Minos if you aren’t bothered about displaying the platter speed.
I would suggest that you speak to or email Steve Cobham at Valhalla Electronics to discuss your preferences further.