Musicman19
pfm Member
LudicrousI recall a thread here detailing an LP12 bakeoff with Ekos SE vs Akito 3b with listeners noting that they were very close.
LudicrousI recall a thread here detailing an LP12 bakeoff with Ekos SE vs Akito 3b with listeners noting that they were very close.
Because of the very real history of Linn dealers, and customers alike, in the past of over-tightening the cartridge screws and flat-spotting the bearings. It’s easily done. If you don’t use hex cartridge bolts and use screws that take a flat-bladed screwdriver it’s a lot less common. It’s a very expensive mistake to make, although most people don’t realise they’ve done it and simply live with poorer sound. If you remove the arm and tighten the bolts whilst only gripping the arm tube, it avoids it. Linn’s mantra used to be to tighten it til it nearly cracks, then back off a bit. People did a lot of damage this way!
I’d hope not but the question was asked. It’s certainly worth knowing if you’re considering buying a s/h arm. A dog might be a brilliant buy if you know what you’re doing. Most people won’t, would be my gut feeling.but nobody sensible does that anymore? I’d buy the cheapest, oldest dog I could find - then add a decent sub chassis, motor controller and arm of choice. Job done
Tiresome anti Linn propaganda.
Because of the very real history of Linn dealers, and customers alike, in the past of over-tightening the cartridge screws and flat-spotting the bearings. It’s easily done. If you don’t use hex cartridge bolts and use screws that take a flat-bladed screwdriver it’s a lot less common. It’s a very expensive mistake to make, although most people don’t realise they’ve done it and simply live with poorer sound. If you remove the arm and tighten the bolts whilst only gripping the arm tube, it avoids it. Linn’s mantra used to be to tighten it til it nearly cracks, then back off a bit. People did a lot of damage this way!
There isn’t one. It’s a great thing.What other deck offers the same quality of construction, modular upgrade path (with a wealth of third party support) and excellent residuals?
It's just easier to remove to fit with the fixed overhang, uni-pivot ARO.... I'm curious as to why you think the tonearm needs to be removed to swap and set up a cartridge?
SME? Garrard 301 & 401? Nottingham Analogue? Technics?What other deck offers the same quality of construction, modular upgrade path (with a wealth of third party support) and excellent residuals?
It's just easier to remove to fit with the fixed overhang, uni-pivot ARO.
I never had the pleasure of an Aro, being a unipivot does the tonearm assembly lift off the pivot?
Getting pissed and breaking expensive MC cartridges is an occupational hazard with this armYes. Very easy in some ways, pain in the rear in others.
Getting pissed and breaking expensive MC cartridges is an occupational hazard with this arm
Getting pissed and breaking expensive MC cartridges is an occupational hazard with this arm
What other deck offers the same quality of construction, modular upgrade path (with a wealth of third party support) and excellent residuals?
Indeed so, but a conventional arm with a clip and lift lower probably would’ve helped. I’m not slagging it off though. It’s a great thing.Surely it's the 'getting pissed' is the issue?
What other deck offers the same quality of construction, modular upgrade path (with a wealth of third party support) and excellent residuals?
What other deck offers the same quality of construction, modular upgrade path (with a wealth of third party support) and excellent residuals?
What about the temptation to upgrade to P8 or P10A Planar 6 would be my deck of choice. No need jump on the (costly) treadmill.