advertisement


New LP12s - Bundle Bargains?

I totally agree. The PU7ti especially is on par with the Ekos SE for significantly less money. I have an Audio Origami PU7 with a DV 20x2L cartridge which is an excellent combination. Loud & Clear in Glasgow have demonstrated that this combination will beat an Akito 3 tonearm with a Krystal cartidge. The standard AO PU7 tonearms are not much more expensive than the Linn Akito arm on the Akurate package but far, far better. You need to find a top flight dealer that will allow you to swap in the components you would like and swap out the ones you don't. A great mix of new and used parts will get you the best result..

Isn't there two editions of Akito,?
New one much better than old ?
 
For background info, I bought and Orbe in preference to a Rega P8 and recently got an old LP12 in basic spec.
The LP12 blows the Orbe away (in my opinion).

Why not just keep the old LP12 if it’s good to your ears?

You can always look to upgrade it, but be careful as some upgrades might takeaway or change some of the sound aspects which you like.
 
the akito in all variants was a budget tonearm so I am hardly surprised that a PU7 beats it.

Rgds
Stuart
 
Remember that you can buy an LP12 Mechanics Kit which gives you all the common parts. Then you can add the bits you want to it. Saves buying parts you don't need.
 
What about now, given that the LP12’s suspension has probably drifted off tune since yesterday?

;)

My experience is that really doesn’t happen.

So the basic £2k deck, does that come with a Karousel?

I’d also vote for mix and match. £2k for an Akito is insane!
 
Isn't there two editions of Akito,?
New one much better than old ?

There are actually 3 x editions of the Akito arm. Akito 1 was made in Japan and they often suffered from failed bearings over time. Akito 2b was made in Scotland and had much better bearings, Akito 3b is the latest arm. It is better than the other two but most people would say that a good condition Ittok or Ekos and certainly a PU7 will be far, far better.
 
I recall a thread here detailing an LP12 bakeoff with Ekos SE vs Akito 3b with listeners noting that they were very close.
 
I recall a thread here detailing an LP12 bakeoff with Ekos SE vs Akito 3b with listeners noting that they were very close.

Yep I did that a few years ago. An Akito 3B vs a mk1 Ekos IIRC (definitely not an Ekos SE !!)

The Akito 3B was very competitive though it was virtually new - sounded a bit smoother at the top end, less forward sounding and equally musical.

The Ekos mk1 / Ittoks are now quite old and sample variation must be quite large - but some examples may be still “exceptional” hard to tell if buying second hand. A good dealer may be able to help I suppose.
 
Last edited:
LP12’s are hassle and totally reliant on the competence of your retailers set-up skills. If you have a competent LP12 distributor then you are on a good initial footing, I didn’t and there was no one else about. Never again; my last iteration included Radikal, so not cheap. Both of my LP12’s had speed stability issues. Cartridge swap is a nightmare and needs the tonearm to be removed…….
 
I've still to decide that as I'm taking the old LP12 into the demo as a reference.

please let us know your feelings, I haven't been to a demo in years and must admit to being skeptical (name for next Linn upgrade?) about "night and day" differences :)
 
Hi Dairyc, all the LP12 options will sound very good, all will have good support from the company and all will last you a life time. I would just audition what they have and buy the cheapest one where you are happy to play records and relax. If this involves the Ortofon, then fair enough.
 
LP12’s are hassle and totally reliant on the competence of your retailers set-up skills. If you have a competent LP12 distributor then you are on a good initial footing, I didn’t and there was no one else about. Never again; my last iteration included Radikal, so not cheap. Both of my LP12’s had speed stability issues. Cartridge swap is a nightmare and needs the tonearm to be removed…….

I've never had a retailer set up a TT, never required it but I'm curious as to why you think the tonearm needs to be removed to swap and set up a cartridge?
 
I've never had a retailer set up a TT, never required it but I'm curious as to why you think the tonearm needs to be removed to swap and set up a cartridge?
Because of the very real history of Linn dealers, and customers alike, in the past of over-tightening the cartridge screws and flat-spotting the bearings. It’s easily done. If you don’t use hex cartridge bolts and use screws that take a flat-bladed screwdriver it’s a lot less common. It’s a very expensive mistake to make, although most people don’t realise they’ve done it and simply live with poorer sound. If you remove the arm and tighten the bolts whilst only gripping the arm tube, it avoids it. Linn’s mantra used to be to tighten it til it nearly cracks, then back off a bit. People did a lot of damage this way!
 


advertisement


Back
Top