advertisement


Yamaha NS1000M

I just finished recapping my NS1000M.

I have used Mundorf caps.

Bass 2x47uF ECap plain

Midrange 21uF made of MCap Evo Aluminum Oil 2x 10uF and 1x 1uF
Midrange 3,5uF made of MCap Evo Aluminum Oil 3.3uF and 0,22uF

Tweeter 2.7uF MCap Evo SilverGold Oil

I measured old caps - 47uF had 52-53uF, 3,5uF - all 3.9-4uF, 2.7uF - one was 2.9 and another 3.1

Caps are glued with pure silicon, it is easy to remove.

Big improvement in sq, much deeper and more precise bass, everything is so much better.
Next step will be removing l-pads, but i have to find optimal settings first.

Maybe one day i will built one complete new external crossover, but at the moment the sq is so phantastic, that i don't need it ...

IMG-5436.jpg
 
tomek said:
I just finished recapping my NS1000M.

I have used Mundorf caps.

Bass 2x47uF ECap plain

Midrange 21uF made of MCap Evo Aluminum Oil 2x 10uF and 1x 1uF
Midrange 3,5uF made of MCap Evo Aluminum Oil 3.3uF and 0,22uF

Tweeter 2.7uF MCap Evo SilverGold Oil

I measured old caps - 47uF had 52-53uF, 3,5uF - all 3.9-4uF, 2.7uF - one was 2.9 and another 3.1

Caps are glued with pure silicon, it is easy to remove.

Big improvement in sq, much deeper and more precise bass, everything is so much better.
Next step will be removing l-pads, but i have to find optimal settings first.

Maybe one day i will built one complete new external crossover, but at the moment the sq is so phantastic, that i don't need it ...

IMG-5436.jpg
Click to expand...


This is a timely post , I have been thinking about recapping mine . Tell me how easy/hard was it to remove the six silver PIO caps ? .
 
Removing the six PIO caps was the worst part ... Heating the cap wit a heat gun helps a lot.
 
tomek said:
I just finished recapping my NS1000M.

I have used Mundorf caps.

Bass 2x47uF ECap plain

Midrange 21uF made of MCap Evo Aluminum Oil 2x 10uF and 1x 1uF
Midrange 3,5uF made of MCap Evo Aluminum Oil 3.3uF and 0,22uF

Tweeter 2.7uF MCap Evo SilverGold Oil

I measured old caps - 47uF had 52-53uF, 3,5uF - all 3.9-4uF, 2.7uF - one was 2.9 and another 3.1

Caps are glued with pure silicon, it is easy to remove.

Big improvement in sq, much deeper and more precise bass, everything is so much better.
Click to expand...

Congrats, that looks great.. :)

About how much did you spend on those caps, just to get a clue ?

If it's such a great step in sq, the bang/ buck seems hard to beat,,,very tempting..
 
torstoi said:
Congrats, that looks great.. :)

About how much did you spend on those caps, just to get a clue ?

If it's such a great step in sq, the bang/ buck seems hard to beat,,,very tempting..
Click to expand...

I payed around 400 euro for all caps for two speakers.

You can see all prices here:

Ecap plain

http://www.mundorf.com/en/?category=hifi&menu=caps_audio&content=ecap_plain

Evo Oil

http://www.mundorf.com/en/?category=hifi&menu=caps_audio&content=mcap_evo.oil

Evo Silver Gold Oil

http://www.mundorf.com/en/?category=hifi&menu=caps_audio&content=mcap_evo_silvergold.oil

HiFi Collective have them all:

https://www.hificollective.co.uk/components/m_cap.html


It is absolutely phantastic improvement.
 
Last edited:
https://flic.kr/p/2e4cPvs

I've had tremendous success with mine with the help of Paul at RFC who has measured and built a set of external cross-overs for my Ns1000s. He was like the cat who got the cream when he first played me some music when they were complete and it was easy to know why. The response across the whole spectrum was improved. The cross-over had simply disappeared. As he pointed out there was not more bass, rather what was there was not being overshadowed by the mids.

The LPads are an important part of the whole and he explains a lot about their effect and the reasons behind it in some posts on Audioflat, which might be of interest.

http://www.audioflat.co.uk/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=821&start=10

I'm absolutely thrilled by the results and would commend Pault to anyone like me,who does not have the skills to do this sort of thing on their own, or does not have the software needed to measure and model what needs to be done, which is no doubt an important part of the process
 
This site contains affiliate links for which pink fish media may be compensated.
Some may know that I’ve done a big crossover rebuild on my NS-1000Ms. As with current crossover fashion I changed all my caps to closely matched Mundorf Supreme and ClarityCap ESA - but the bigger improvement, by quite some margin, was replacing the coils (I used coils with precisely the same value and resistance). This cost about a quarter of the price of the capacitors but delivered greater transparency, air and ‘snap’.
 
You’ve got me wondering if I need to look at changing the components in my ns1000X versions?? Is there anyway to ‘test’ what’s in their currently?

They sound amazing. ?
 
Rug Doc said:
You’ve got me wondering if I need to look at changing the components in my ns1000X versions?? Is there anyway to ‘test’ what’s in their currently?

They sound amazing. ?
Click to expand...

How do you mean “is there anyway to ‘test’ what’s in there (sic) currently?)?

The majority of the caps in NS-1000Ms still read within tolerance now - but the point is that, compared to the tolerance value of modern caps, they seem pretty poorly matched.

I’ll have to look at your crossover but, as Si suggests, it’s already quite a bit younger. My gut reaction is to point you towards replacing the coils with air cored (certainly in the tweeter and upper mid).
 
i have recapped and rewired a few speakers of the ns1000's age and have never had that night and day experience that forum posts always declare,slightly better yes. with that in mind and the reliability of the stock ns1000 caps im a little hesitant to jump inside and start on them.
i like how they sound right now,the work that paul and mark etc did is a lot more than just a recap job and that intrigues me enough to think about going that route,i wish they lived nearer me so i could have a listen.
 
I have some of the stands, they're very well made and do the job very well. The speakers are dumping a lot of energy and i've filled mine with kiln dried sand to damp the vibration.

As you say the work Paul has done goes well beyond a component swap, although i have no way to compare to the stock cross-over, unless i pick up another set :D. It would be very interesting to compare them to the 1000X. Fancy selling them Doc?
 
i tried sand in mine and it took ages to fill up :)
i use shot from our powder coaters,cheaper than lead shot and does the trick :)
 
i just poured it in through a funnel which didn't seem to take long. I was jiggling them about to try to get the cross-members to fill but not sure whether this is possible ie is there a hole connecting them to the uprights or not. Decided not to obsess as they seem to be doing the job.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


advertisement


Back
Top