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Yamaha NS1000M

torstoi said:
I just went through this thread again & only now realised that my stands I described in post #472,
are obviously copys of the Yamaha SPS500 stands mentioned in post#462.
(I didn't google what SPS500 looked like earlier)

So, for what it's worth, if you're toying with the idea of getting SPS500 or even copys like I have,
let go of it.
They destroy the timing.
Click to expand...
I've got SPS500 copies and my NS-1000Ms times just fine. There's no way the angled mid piece would make an audible different to bass frequencies given how long the wavelengths are and it's not like there's a port underneath the cabinet.
 
A mate of mine has the same NS-1000 I have & we regularily change, swap and listen to practically every hifi item we can get our hands on.
Together we had 3 pairs of stands at hands for comparison:
1)my simple, a bit weak and very low metal stands
2)his more massive medium high spiked target copys in black metal
3) and finally my SPS500 copys, best -or rather said perfect heigth for me & the ones which looked the best to me.

We checked all of them against each other...the first both were doing pretty well, the target a tiny bit better..but the difference was neglectable practically.
The SPS500 were totally off, a no-go we both agreed quickly.

The homogenity of the speaker, acting as seemingly one unit diverted into one mid-tweeter unit and a bass unit and for me there was the impression of some kind of gap inbetween those two.

I really regretted having bought those SPS500 copys despite they were cheap enough.
If I had not known it was the stands, I definitely would have looked out for a different speaker, I literally could not listen to it.

As I am damping certain roomspots as well as have put acoustic cloths as curtains to reduce reflections from the windows,
I got the idea 'what if..' , went to the bathroom, got 2 towels and covered the diagonals of the stands.

Perfect. It works, the heigth is optimal & I could keep the look I ever wanted.
My mate ever disliked their looks, but when he visited again, confirmed they sound absolutely fine now.

You can make of that what you like, it only takes one way to the bathroom to try it.
If you think your's sound ok, that's perfectly fine..

The content of NS1000 AND SPS500 is only interesting for a very small percentage of owners / users,
I gave my personal xp, am no towel-dealer & thus I won't further discuss this topic.
 
I honestly don't think a couple of towels is going to have much if any effect on absorbing low bass reflections. Even absorption material that's several inches thick has difficulty absorbing frequencies below 100Hz. The reflections you are getting from the diagonals of the stands must be higher in frequency. Did you measure the acoustic effect of covering the stands with towels?
 
Just received the "anti-diffraction rings set" and it is a very nice improvement for NS1000. Stereo imaging is better, no doubts. I ordered on ebay from seller "pandora.500". Well invested 35 €.
 
Wasn't sure at first, but the "anti-diffraction rings" I got from YNWOAN really do make a difference to how voices project into the room. Thanks.

I had my NS1000s on solid wood frames and held in place with Blu-Tac. Have now inserted wooden cones to support speakers after prising Blu-Tac off the stands. Very glad I did as drums now have more snap and kick and vocals are even more delineated. I guess the Yams need to be isolated rather than rigidly attached to stands, or least have an open frame below them.
 
Torstoi, my friend, may I suggest you have made a pair of the stands I designed - I honestly think they will do everything you want and more (though perhaps not in the looks department). In particular, use the speaker/stand coupling method I have used.
 
Hi Mark,,nice to see you..

I accidentally applied your diffraction foams to my speakers this weekend.
It's a bit embarrassing, but I had no clear memory of how they would keep applied to the speakers,
so I had a vague idea I would either have to take the screws out and kind of washer hold them or some light adhesive or similar.
Either way, on the weekend I decided to try how they look on the speaker at all, held them there with a gentle push
and was quite astonished they just stayed there, ultralight as they are, grabbing hold just from the scews outer diameters.
Applied in like 20 seconds...and the same moment the speakers turned their focus to 'more precise'
Not a total sound revolution,,,but an effect by FAR more obvious than I had expected it to be.

It's a bit of an effect like if you haven't had new glasses since 10 years & your dioptrine has faded unnoticed a bit.
Without having obviously missed anything, you're astonished how clear and sharp everything looks once the new glasses are there.
I'm very pleased & haven't heard them that good up to now.

It's in fact rediculous they lay in the package that long bc I imagined it would require screwing or glueing in some way,
but such is life sometimes..

They sound a tad more smeared w/o the diffractions,
still excellent on a total scale of course..but with them on, absolutely obvious quite a little bit better.
Great find & at the level the NS are on, a no brainer in vfm. Thanks a lot ! :)

I'd like to try your coupling method, perhaps you can put me a short pm about it?
And in medium term I'm also tempted to try your stands.
Those are handicraft and as such will ask and deserve a certain adequate equivalent in pay.
I admit my initial reaction to your suggestion was some: 'naah, mine are certainly ok enough'
But well, at a second thought...they may still be a compromise, and I don't yet know by how much.
And at the level the NS are already considering vfm in s/h terms, getting the most out of them
does not necessarily have to be cheap to be stilll very worthwhile.

It would be nice if you could put me a short pm about your coupling method
& also how much I'd have to calculate for the stands you designed.

Kind regards from here..
 
Hi Torstoi, of course I will PM you (later today though as I’m a bit tied up at the minute). I’m really glad you like the diffraction rings :) (I received a request for a pair only yesterday, but they are now all sold). I’m afraid I wasn’t suggesting I make the stands, more that you employed a local welder to do it for you (I just don’t have the time and shipping would be exorbitant)
 
The toy album sounds wonderful on mine, the dog doesn’t like it though and hides in the bedroom, there must be a lot of low frequency stuff going on that I can’t hear lol
 
Is there any trick how to remove the six 3,5 uF caps from the plastic tubes without damaging the whole thing ?
 
tomek said:
Is there any trick how to remove the six 3,5 uF caps from the plastic tubes without damaging the whole thing ?
Click to expand...

Just bypass them, any other approach will make you say naughty words and induce a hernia! If you are determined my advice is to get a strong vice.
 
sq225917 said:
if you want to do it right and you replace the Elco's for film caps you will need to add the ESR back in with resistors. Probably only 0.5 ohm.

I have mine so the tweeter is at ear height. 35-40cm tall
Click to expand...

Interesting point. I was studying different recapping projects of ns 1000 and everybody is just changing old elcos for new mkps without adding "lost" ESR. So adding one 0,5ohm/20W Resistor (Mundorf Mresist Supreme) in series with the caps will add lost "ESR" ?
Is one 20w resitor powerfull enough in the bass area, or it is better to use two in parallel ?
What will be the effect on sq ?
 
tomek said:
Interesting point. I was studying different recapping projects of ns 1000 and everybody is just changing old elcos for new mkps without adding "lost" ESR. So adding one 0,5ohm/20W Resistor (Mundorf Mresist Supreme) in series with the caps will add lost "ESR" ?
Is one 20w resitor powerfull enough in the bass area, or it is better to use two in parallel ?
What will be the effect on sq ?
Click to expand...

Why worry about that when you can just tweak the pots, should it be necessary?
 
Are the pots connected at the same point as the lost ear? To be fair it is only likely to be in the order of .5 ohm on the bass and a touch more on the pio on the mids
 
As I understand it the ESR of a cap varies with frequency. If you add a resistor you will introduce a linear resistance where none existed before. In other words, you will be altering the circuit in quite a pronounced way and introduce more of a problem than you are solving.
 
YNWOAN said:
As I understand it the ESR of a cap varies with frequency. If you add a resistor you will introduce a linear resistance where none existed before. In other words, you will be altering the circuit in quite a pronounced way and introduce more of a problem than you are solving.
Click to expand...

Yes ESR varies with frequency but most speaker diyers don't bother to model with capacitor ESR at all. I do, but you can only add a single value in LspCad, so I add a measured value that I think applies to the frequency of interest. For a film caps, I often find around 0.4ohm is about right. Not sure about electrolytics because I don't use them.

Just out of curiosity I added 0.5ohm to the capacitors in a model of a recent design of mine (two in series with the tweeter and one woofer shunt). As expected, treble dropped in level but it also affected the phase tracking a bit.
 
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