Sugden Connoisseur - lost classic? (part II)
- Thread starter Craig B
- Start date
Hi Eguth,
firstly thankyou for going to the effort of this road map on how to do this job. Most grateful. It's an exciting mod and I'd like to do it.
At this point I should point out however and without hesitation that I have not said I would do this yet. I only said I would "check it out".
To do the solid plinth connie is now a big job. Plus it involves a fair bit of butchering my nice solid plinth. It would undoubtedly now be best to do the normal mod on my second normal connie first and check the results before undertaking the bigger job. So I might do that. But, when I get around to it. Aside, I am not retired, and have a ton of projects both hifi and not hifi vieing for my attention plus the full time job. Well it's good to be busy
.
One easy thing I've learn't from this discussion is that the 4 screws that hold the BD1 chassis need to be secure and tight. Mine are quite threaded and fairly loose. It should be a quick job to source some slightly larger screws and fix this bit.
thanks again,
Paul.
firstly thankyou for going to the effort of this road map on how to do this job. Most grateful. It's an exciting mod and I'd like to do it.
At this point I should point out however and without hesitation that I have not said I would do this yet. I only said I would "check it out".
To do the solid plinth connie is now a big job. Plus it involves a fair bit of butchering my nice solid plinth. It would undoubtedly now be best to do the normal mod on my second normal connie first and check the results before undertaking the bigger job. So I might do that. But, when I get around to it. Aside, I am not retired, and have a ton of projects both hifi and not hifi vieing for my attention plus the full time job. Well it's good to be busy
. One easy thing I've learn't from this discussion is that the 4 screws that hold the BD1 chassis need to be secure and tight. Mine are quite threaded and fairly loose. It should be a quick job to source some slightly larger screws and fix this bit.
thanks again,
Paul.
eguth
pfm Member
The very best screws I have ever used are SPAX, made in Germany. They have a serrated worm', are self- starting and grip for a very long time and very tightly.
I do not know whether they are available in Australia. I get mine from Axminster Power Tools in England.
Since you only need four (4) to fasten your platform if you pm me with your home address I will see if I can post you these f.o.c. I have a large stock for my own use. You should specify the length you need, and the diameter of the platform holes.
I paste below the SPAX MDF screws. Mine are for ordinary wood, but I assume that they will work very well on chipboard. In case you have an easy supplier of small quantities of SPAX in Australia, please say so so that I dont have to go to the trouble of sending you four from England.
Cheers
Key featuresMore information
No splitting or bulging in MDF or similar material
No pre drilling needed due to cutting point
Countersunk has ribs for secure fit and less chance of stripping
Screws drive in with ease
Boxes of 200
I do not know whether they are available in Australia. I get mine from Axminster Power Tools in England.
Since you only need four (4) to fasten your platform if you pm me with your home address I will see if I can post you these f.o.c. I have a large stock for my own use. You should specify the length you need, and the diameter of the platform holes.
I paste below the SPAX MDF screws. Mine are for ordinary wood, but I assume that they will work very well on chipboard. In case you have an easy supplier of small quantities of SPAX in Australia, please say so so that I dont have to go to the trouble of sending you four from England.
Cheers
Key featuresMore information
No splitting or bulging in MDF or similar material
No pre drilling needed due to cutting point
Countersunk has ribs for secure fit and less chance of stripping
Screws drive in with ease
Boxes of 200
Thanks!
http://www.spaxpacific.com/spax-m.html
In luck. These are in Melb. Will pay a visit.
cheers,
Paul.
http://www.spaxpacific.com/spax-m.html
In luck. These are in Melb. Will pay a visit.
cheers,
Paul.
eguth
pfm Member
pauly99
I thought more about SPAX screws. It occurred to me to see what I used all those years ago. I used brass nuts and bolts and lock washers. I am glad I have never had to remove the platform! Just for fun, I tried to tighten them up further yesterday. They cannot be tightened further.
Now as to your setup- I think that a better idea is easy. You will not need special screws.
STEP 1
Remove platform. Drill large holes, say 15mm (3/4”), at the four corners where the existing screw holes are located.
STEP 2
Cut 4 hardwood dowels to fit the 4 x 15mm new holes. Glue dowels in place with strong wood glue. Clamp until thoroughly dry. File flush with plinth.
STEP 3
Put BD1 platform back on. Screw into dowels with wood screws. The result should be very strong, tight and long lasting.
SEE DIAGRAMS BELOW.
DSCN0752 by pulitout, on Flickr
I thought more about SPAX screws. It occurred to me to see what I used all those years ago. I used brass nuts and bolts and lock washers. I am glad I have never had to remove the platform! Just for fun, I tried to tighten them up further yesterday. They cannot be tightened further.
Now as to your setup- I think that a better idea is easy. You will not need special screws.
STEP 1
Remove platform. Drill large holes, say 15mm (3/4”), at the four corners where the existing screw holes are located.
STEP 2
Cut 4 hardwood dowels to fit the 4 x 15mm new holes. Glue dowels in place with strong wood glue. Clamp until thoroughly dry. File flush with plinth.
STEP 3
Put BD1 platform back on. Screw into dowels with wood screws. The result should be very strong, tight and long lasting.
SEE DIAGRAMS BELOW.
DSCN0752 by pulitout, on Flickr
Hi all,
I just received and fitted a brand new motor from T&G. It's lovely and all went well and it's very quiet with the belt and the platter etc, BUT, I have rumble quite loud when you crank up the volume, that I didn't have before. Is there something I need to pay attention to in the motor set up?
any help , many thanks,
Paul.
I just received and fitted a brand new motor from T&G. It's lovely and all went well and it's very quiet with the belt and the platter etc, BUT, I have rumble quite loud when you crank up the volume, that I didn't have before. Is there something I need to pay attention to in the motor set up?
any help , many thanks,
Paul.
eguth
pfm Member
In an earlier thread you said:
"...One easy thing I've learn't from this discussion is that the 4 screws that hold the BD1 chassis need to be secure and tight. Mine are quite threaded and fairly loose. It should be a quick job to source some slightly larger screws and fix this bit...."
Have you tightened up the platform screws or used 'spax' screws or some other tightening method? If so, this may have enabled rumble to get transmitted that was previously absorbed by play (loose screws).
The solution, at least the one I used, was to completely isolate the motor via wall mounting- as per my article on modifying the BD1.
The same point might apply if you tightened up the screws/bolts holding the arm to the armboard.
Other than this please comment on how you have mounted the motor, and especially whether: i) you purchased the new suspension and/or ii) modified it in any way.
Have you changed anything to do with the support for the plinth or the shelf on which it presumably sits?
Thanks HaveFun,
I spent 3 hours this Sunday afternoon on the motor.
- mostly spent levelling the thing. Took quite a while but I ended up aligning the single suspension hook and it's clip in line with the plinth spindle and the motor shaft. That way the tension from the little rubber band pulled the motor slightly in the opposite direction to the pull of the belt. Now the pulley is almost perfectly level when the whole thing is together and switched on.
- I oiled the motor slightly also. Bearing already oiled.
- The rumble cause was pretty obvious once I got in there. The rubber band hook I mentioned before was slightly touching the plastic box over the terminal block for the motors wires. I repositioned the plastic box out of the way so the motor sits totally free. The heavy rumble appears to be gone.
It's wonderful. Thankyou.
Paul.
I spent 3 hours this Sunday afternoon on the motor.
- mostly spent levelling the thing. Took quite a while but I ended up aligning the single suspension hook and it's clip in line with the plinth spindle and the motor shaft. That way the tension from the little rubber band pulled the motor slightly in the opposite direction to the pull of the belt. Now the pulley is almost perfectly level when the whole thing is together and switched on.
- I oiled the motor slightly also. Bearing already oiled.
- The rumble cause was pretty obvious once I got in there. The rubber band hook I mentioned before was slightly touching the plastic box over the terminal block for the motors wires. I repositioned the plastic box out of the way so the motor sits totally free. The heavy rumble appears to be gone.
It's wonderful. Thankyou.
Paul.
Hi Eguth,
thanks too for your reply.
- RE spax screws, I went to the shop but just missed closing time. Then I found some slightly wider and slightly longer solid black screws in my workshop and I used them. They are quite solid and I'm happy with them. I then noticed the other approach you have outlined above with dowels and a picture above. Thanks very much for this, appreciated, but I have it pretty much secured now as is.
- The outboard motor is a bit more than I need to fix the rumble. I just need it as good as it was before the new motor. The Rumble wasn't the new screws BTW and it's fixed now see previous post of mine.
- Yes I have purchased new suspension with the motor. No I have not modified it. It looks just like the suspension I have on my other motors so maybe I have all new suspensions anyway OR// maybe T&G sent me an old one. I don't know the difference between the new and old suspensions. Can someone tell me?
- I have not changed the support or shelf for the plinth.
Listening to making movies Dire Straits right now and sounding good,
cheers,
Paul.
thanks too for your reply.
- RE spax screws, I went to the shop but just missed closing time. Then I found some slightly wider and slightly longer solid black screws in my workshop and I used them. They are quite solid and I'm happy with them. I then noticed the other approach you have outlined above with dowels and a picture above. Thanks very much for this, appreciated, but I have it pretty much secured now as is.
- The outboard motor is a bit more than I need to fix the rumble. I just need it as good as it was before the new motor. The Rumble wasn't the new screws BTW and it's fixed now see previous post of mine.
- Yes I have purchased new suspension with the motor. No I have not modified it. It looks just like the suspension I have on my other motors so maybe I have all new suspensions anyway OR// maybe T&G sent me an old one. I don't know the difference between the new and old suspensions. Can someone tell me?
- I have not changed the support or shelf for the plinth.
Listening to making movies Dire Straits right now and sounding good,
cheers,
Paul.
eguth
pfm Member
"...- Yes I have purchased new suspension with the motor. No I have not modified it. It looks just like the suspension I have on my other motors so maybe I have all new suspensions anyway OR// maybe T&G sent me an old one. I don't know the difference between the new and old suspensions. Can someone tell me?..."
I suggest that you go to the THREAD INDEX on page 30 of Part I of this thread (follow link given at beginning of this thread to get there quickly).
Then look under "M" in the Index. Find the entry under 'MOTOR & SUSPENSION'.
Read the posts at the post numbers given there.
I suggest that you go to the THREAD INDEX on page 30 of Part I of this thread (follow link given at beginning of this thread to get there quickly).
Then look under "M" in the Index. Find the entry under 'MOTOR & SUSPENSION'.
Read the posts at the post numbers given there.
ok after jumping around all over I have the index, which says:
Motor & Suspension: 61,77,89,108,150,212,214,215,217,272
IF ONLY we could jump to a post # it would be somewhat easier, but:
- can't jump to post
- you only get so many posts per page.
- to get to 212 you click on one of the 10 pages available at the top say 30 + 10 = 40 and then you continue this ABSURD dance until you hit 212 , only to find that is something ELSE about the motor and you need to do it all again for another.
- I am willing to print the LOT and read it all, then I'll know where stuff is but you can't find a way to do that either.
- search is equally archaic and only allowed in 30 second interval wait times!!!
Is this for real, or am I on candid camera
Seriously guys not wishing to be rude but this is cr*pp. It's the internet age and 2012. pfm needs an upgrade in it's software.
All this just to answer a simple question about the difference between the new and old suspension.
Pauly.
Motor & Suspension: 61,77,89,108,150,212,214,215,217,272
IF ONLY we could jump to a post # it would be somewhat easier, but:
- can't jump to post
- you only get so many posts per page.
- to get to 212 you click on one of the 10 pages available at the top say 30 + 10 = 40 and then you continue this ABSURD dance until you hit 212 , only to find that is something ELSE about the motor and you need to do it all again for another.
- I am willing to print the LOT and read it all, then I'll know where stuff is but you can't find a way to do that either.
- search is equally archaic and only allowed in 30 second interval wait times!!!
Is this for real, or am I on candid camera
Seriously guys not wishing to be rude but this is cr*pp. It's the internet age and 2012. pfm needs an upgrade in it's software.
All this just to answer a simple question about the difference between the new and old suspension.
Pauly.
eguth
pfm Member
pauly99
Re your Post #70
You say…”little rubber band pulled…”etc.
This leads me to suspect that you are using the OLD suspension, in part.
The NEW suspension does not utilise rubber bands.
With regard to your desire to print out the entire Part I of the thread I would suggest that you do what I did.
Just print out a few pages per day, as many as convenient. If you print out, say, three (3) pages a day then in 30 days you will be well on your way to have printed out the whole Part I of the thread.
ON THE TIME IT TAKES TO LOCATE A NUMBERED POST IN PART I OF THE THREAD
I think you are making something of 'heavy weather' over your difficulties. Just for fun, I timed the amount of time it took me to get to Post #108 on Part I of the thread. I decided on this particular post having looked at the THREAD INDEX for Part I.
Starting from this (final) post on Part II, and then going back first to the first post on Part II to get the LINK to Part I, I then on Part I backtracked to post #108.
The entire operation took me exactly ONE (1) minute.
I suggest that you start your photocopying exercise by printing out the entire THREAD INDEX located on page 30 of Part I. I would suggest that you mount the printout on a cardboard so that you can permanently instantly access it without a computer. You can then go from there to any post in Part I from Part II in about one minute, and in less than a minute from post to post in Part I.
Re your Post #70
You say…”little rubber band pulled…”etc.
This leads me to suspect that you are using the OLD suspension, in part.
The NEW suspension does not utilise rubber bands.
With regard to your desire to print out the entire Part I of the thread I would suggest that you do what I did.
Just print out a few pages per day, as many as convenient. If you print out, say, three (3) pages a day then in 30 days you will be well on your way to have printed out the whole Part I of the thread.
ON THE TIME IT TAKES TO LOCATE A NUMBERED POST IN PART I OF THE THREAD
I think you are making something of 'heavy weather' over your difficulties. Just for fun, I timed the amount of time it took me to get to Post #108 on Part I of the thread. I decided on this particular post having looked at the THREAD INDEX for Part I.
Starting from this (final) post on Part II, and then going back first to the first post on Part II to get the LINK to Part I, I then on Part I backtracked to post #108.
The entire operation took me exactly ONE (1) minute.
I suggest that you start your photocopying exercise by printing out the entire THREAD INDEX located on page 30 of Part I. I would suggest that you mount the printout on a cardboard so that you can permanently instantly access it without a computer. You can then go from there to any post in Part I from Part II in about one minute, and in less than a minute from post to post in Part I.
It's a brand new suspension from Dennis at T&G. I doubt it's the old one.
I did not mean rubber bands in the main suspension. Which is a Y shape and has no rubber bands.
I meant the tensioning RUBBER RING if you will that tensions the motor away from the tension of the belt.
It looks like this :
http://signalsuk.co.uk/signals_shop/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=56
check it out.
P.
Are you for real?
That's just whacky
.Computers do "information" much quicker than this Eguth.
No offence intended but IMO this suggestion of printing 3 pages per day for a month is absurd.
Nobody does that sort of thing when we have powerful hardware and software in 2012.
Oh dear