advertisement


Tannoy Monitor Golds

I agree Tony. Especially with well recorded and/or acoustic stuff. My only slight problem is with a very odd track (cd) where the equalisation on a particular bass sound will go incredibly low and shake the room. I blame the production more than anything. Tannoys will build up your six pack as that bass constantly hits your chest and stomach :cool:
 
Crikey if they are that good with an Electrolytic as old as me in them! I guess just change for a standard film type to match the others, nothing ****y for fear of upsetting the balance...
 
lexi said:
My small room goes against that Joel. I blame the size 14ftx11ft. Also the construction which is suspended floor and plasterboard ceiling. I am working on it all though. Have stiffened my Berkely cabs no end. Made really good stands and speakers sit on concrete slabs. Bass traps in corners too. Still a bit to go. I go under the floor once the weather warms........then a trap on the ceiling........then the loony bin:D
Click to expand...

I have Linn Keilidhs, wouldnt dare go bigger, my room is only 9 ft wide :(

Oh but I should add ... I have no issue with bass - its on its own amp actively crossed at 125hz so you can imagine there's plenty of it when required.
 
I can't imagine why your choice of xover has an effect on in-room response below 100Hz. Is it also an eq for LF driver roll-off?
 
Joel, the spec Active of the speaker is lower than passive. Normally the driver would go to 2.8K, now it is just confined to a very small range of its capability with its own amp and it does it very well indeed :)

Sorry, way off topic for these classics under discussion guys!
 
jirka said:
tony have you seen this one cabinets monitor gold

www.hilberink.nl/codehans/tannoy1.htm
Click to expand...

I think they may be Hans own speakers. He seems to have thrown the contents of a disused bedroom in there. Seriously heavy and ugly but it`s the sound that matters. I`ve checked the whole of Ebay tonight and there are bugger all radiograms left......

Trancera.
Funnily enough guy next door to me has exact same listening room. He has all Linn with Kabers Bi amped They are nice but don`t do bass like 15" Tannoy. So he never has issues with any track cos they don`t go as low . It`s often said that the bass on small speakers is "clean", It`s usually mid bass that is being heard. Now I`m going OT:D
 
Tony L said:
I've thought for a long time now that it's not frequency response but the ability to hoof a serious quantity of air about without any effort that matters. A kick drum, bass guitar, piano or whatever shifts a sizeable amount of air, to reproduce it you clearly need to do the same, even if you are not aiming for the same volume level. These things can do it without even breaking a sweat, no matter how closely I look at the drivers I can't see them move!
Click to expand...

Ahhhh....welcome to Club 15!!! Although mine are 604s and not Golds - but hey, I am a West Coast Yank - so that is appropriate I guess. I don't see the cones move very much on them either. A neat trick is to use some point source lighting - like a low voltage halogen - and angle it at the cones from about 120 degrees to the baffle so that there is a shadow cast in the cone. Then you can see them dance with the other lights dimmed. It is really deceptive how much they actually move.

Tony L said:
I know real Tannoyistas don't like Lancaster cabs, they seem to be considered worst of breed, but these certainly sound really nice. I have no plans to change them anytime soon
Click to expand...

The best speakers I have ever heard was a pair of 15" Reds in a GRF Professional (I think) enclosure. I heard them at this guys house here in NZ a few months ago and was floored by them. He had the cabs built by a local cabinet maker, and showed me the 1/4 size foam-core model he made prior to construction, and they look very much like the ones here:

http://www.hilberink.nl/codehans/tannoy18.htm

They truly were impressive, effortless, smooth, blah, blah, blah, euphemisms, etc, ad nauseum - and that just does not do it justice. I almost gave up going home and listening to my OB system. What was the point? The only thing that saved me was that my cabs aren't done yet. Oh yeah, I forgot, I need to listen to music or I die...

Sell the SME and the Hersey's and have the GRF Pros built. Just do it. Beg, Borrow, Build. You won't regret it. Don't think about it. I am channelling you...now...in your sleep...from NZ. Say it with me...GRF Pro...GRF Pro...GRF Pro...

Man, you are one lucky SOB. Years of fun ahead.

David

PS - GRF Pro...GRF Pro...GRF Pro...
 
martin clark said:
Tony - many thanks - I'll take this up by PM, but yes, I'd like to collect :)
Click to expand...


Lucky so and so's how I envy that listening session! Sold my briks yesterday via PF and so I now need your Tannoys whoever you are, those poor quality corner Lancasters would be fine.

Enjoy it the both of you
 
gortnipper said:
Sell the SME and the Hersey's and have the GRF Pros built. Just do it. Beg, Borrow, Build. You won't regret it. Don't think about it. I am channelling you...now...in your sleep...from NZ. Say it with me...GRF Pro...GRF Pro...GRF Pro...
Click to expand...

I like the idea that I've got an upgrade ahead! I plan to do nothing to them except fix up the grills for a long while though -I've already ordered some vintage grey style grill cloth, a staple gun and some velcro. These cabs are 'big' in my room as is to be honest, I'm not convinced I could cope with a much larger footprint and still be able to get to the vinyl! The fact these are corner cabs actually helps with access to the shelving behind, i.e. they are wide at the front, narrow at the back.

I'm really surprised by how good they sound given they are a variation on the least liked Tannoy cabs. In fact they are even smaller than Lancasters! I measured them earlier and I guess they were 'influenced' by Lancasters rather than a direct copy as they are a couple of inches lower and a couple of inches wider, plus as the cabinets are so extraordinarily thick I guess the internal volume is a bit down too - they are a small box for a 15". I have no idea if the builder 'did the math' or just built something he liked the look of. Listening to them I suspect the former, especially given the attention he paid to rigidity and damping. The construction is pretty astonishing even now, let alone in 1970 when they were built (he wrote the date on the front baffle: 1/6/70!). I'll post the measurements at some point and see if anyone can figure out the internal volume - my math ability is far too crap!

Tony.
 
Tony,

This link has a picture and the dimensions of the Lancaster Corner model.

Click on the link Tannoy brochures in zip-format 2mb and open the file labeled LL2.jpg.

I'm guessing the internal volume is around 80 litres.

Regards,
John
 
John said:
This link has a picture and the dimensions of the Lancaster Corner model.

Click on the link Tannoy brochures in zip-format 2mb and open the file labeled LL2.jpg.

I'm guessing the internal volume is around 80 litres.
Click to expand...

I've got a real copy of that brochure! They came with a fair bit of paperwork. Mine are an inch bigger in every dimension bar height where they are smaller, the measurement of 33" on the plans (i.e. from above the 'plinth' to the top of cab) is 28" on mine which does put the drivers a little low. I assume the inch bigger thing is as they are a double wall cab, i.e. the inner wall is to the Tannoy dimension, though the missing height will cost a fair bit of internal volume.

Tony,
 
<the shame>

Tony.

PS Anyone got any tips for fitting grill cloth so it doesn't look like it's been fitted by an idiot? It's a sturdy 12mm thick plywood frame. I've ordered some cloth, a staple gun and some velcro. I am hoping to bring these items together in some form of process...
 
This site contains affiliate links for which pink fish media may be compensated.
I have done that a couple times, as well as making window screens. What has worked for me is the following:

Cut the cloth a few inches larger in each dim that you need - better to trim the extra than not have enough

Layout the cloth on a hard surface, stretching it slightly in all dims to lay flat

Place the frame on it how you like it.

Staple one side in the middle of the frame - the staples running parallel to the side you are stapling.

Then staple every two incthes along that side towards one corner, holding the cloth gently taught with your free hand at that corner. Dont staple into the corner - just half a cm or so before it. The trick is to make the cloth taught, but not so much so that it puckers or pulls the grain of the weave.

Repeat on opposite side. For the first staple you are pulling across the grill. For the next stapels you are pulling from the corner in two vectors - so that the edge and crossways are taught. Again - looking to see that the cloth is taught but not so that it pulls.

Do one end, than the other.

So now you have four corners that are loose, but stapled close. Put the gun down, son. With your "free" hand, pull the corner fabric in towards the center of the grill - 45 degrees to the corner and tuck it all in tight from the sides with your gun hand. Pick up the gun and staple across the fold/mitre of the corner. If you do this corner right, and nice and tight, it will sit pretty flat - providing the cloth is not to heavy and you dont need it to sit abosolutely flush as tile work. But if you are using velcro, that should be an issue as long as you dont velcro the corners.

Trim it all up nice.

Take a long draw of that cold beer that is sitting there getting warm, and admire your work.

David
 
Tony, one of the simplest and beneficial upgrades you could perform is to rear mount the drivers(rebated so flush with front baffle even better).
The MG DC never gave its best in that front mounting arrangement, the mids improve, the stereo image really improves and a whole layer of colouration just disappears.
When you construct your grill frame be sure to chamfer the inside edge of the driver cutout and leave as much clearance as possible around the driver edge.
You may find that the corner placement/loading together with the lower cab volume/early IB bass roll off works really well in your room.
Cheers
Cooky
 
cooky1257 said:
Tony, one of the simplest and beneficial upgrades you could perform is to rear mount the drivers(rebated so flush with front baffle even better).
Cheers
Cooky
Click to expand...
Don't you mean front mount, they look like they're mounted from the back of the baffle now. :)
 
John said:
Don't you mean front mount, they look like they're mounted from the back of the baffle now. :)
Click to expand...

:)Well different manufacturers use different conventions.
In this instance I'm referring to rear of the driver flange where the rear mounting gasket would go..
http://www.jblpro.com/pages/components/2235h.htm
Note the driver cut out is smaller for 'rear mounting', that said JBL followed a red -ve , black +ve convention for quite a while..
 
. As your front baffles are double skinned the inner one is has the wider dia. ? So the driver rests on the outer baffle. If you routed that to move driver forward you would end up mounting the driver on the 12 mm of ply that would be left after routing.....not much and still not flush. Front mounting will get them fliush with a router.......Yes?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


advertisement


Back
Top