What's Your Power Block.

[guydarryl]

Yeah, I guess plugging expensive gear into socket extensions costing pennies doesn't sit well with most folks — regardless of how it might sound.

I would partly agree with that. But I have bought cheap extension blocks over the years (50 years of having a “stereo’) and all the blocks failed after a few years - mainly not being able to plug in to the sockets.
With the Olsons, must be getting close to ten years now, they still look solid and work well - I feel confident that they will see me out, I wish that I had ”found” them earlier.

 

[Jim Audiomisc]

Many of my distribution boards were from RS and contain RFI filters, etc. Although the earliest ones were DIYed by myself so I could build my own filters.

More recently I've bought a mix of both filtered and non-filtered. The filtered ones BF30000 ones from a German maker whose name I've forgotten. Commercial ones came from RS and then CPC.

 

[Mr_Sukebe]

Has anyone taken advice from Russ Andrews ?
His power blocks seem reasonably priced.
He has a ‘Signature’ model, only £1,994.
Seems a lot to pay for someone’s signature

Is it Russ’s sig, a random employee (contract cleaner maybe), or someone of genuine note?

 

[Mike Reed]

Many of my distribution boards were from RS and contain RFI filters, etc

Jim, excuse my higgorance, but what are distribution boards. Another poster used that expression and it turned out to be a consumer unit. Bad news having RFI filters in anything (using ferrite, possibly?).

 

[NickofWimbledon]

Yeah, I guess plugging expensive gear into socket extensions costing pennies doesn't sit well with most folks — regardless of how it might sound.

Some have tried multiple options and reported. Perhaps those who have not are not showing shame or a refusal to help, but have only tried one option and stuck with it and so have no comparison to offer?

 

[Theo]

Jim, excuse my higgorance, but what are distribution boards. Another poster used that expression and it turned out to be a consumer unit. Bad news having RFI filters in anything (using ferrite, possibly?).

From Wiki:

A distribution board (also known as panelboard, breaker panel, electric panel, fuse box or DB box) is a component of an electricity supply system that divides an electrical power feed into subsidiary circuitswhile providing a protective fuse or circuit breaker for each circuit in a common enclosure. Normally, a main switch, and in recent boards, one or more residual-current devices (RCDs) or residual current breakers with overcurrent protection (RCBOs) are also incorporated.

In the United Kingdom, a distribution board designed for domestic installations is known as a consumer unit.[1]

I spend a lot of time on construction sites, the term gets used a lot, hence my use of the term.

 

[Heckyman]

Some have tried multiple options and reported. Perhaps those who have not are not showing shame or a refusal to help, but have only tried one option and stuck with it and so have no comparison to offer?

Yes, thanks for your report on the hydra! Star earthing I guess, benefits kit that is at different ground potentials and grounded via the power lead earth? Which is some but by no means all.

 

[Jim Audiomisc]

Jim, excuse my higgorance, but what are distribution boards. Another poster used that expression and it turned out to be a consumer unit. Bad news having RFI filters in anything (using ferrite, possibly?).

I'm using it to mean a set of Mains sockets on a strip/board that has a flying lead to a standard wall-socket mains plug.

The filters are because some old kit (e.g.s. being the Quad 34 and my Nak cassette deck) pick up problems from mains clicks.

I've not yet encountered any problems caused by using them. But I have from not using them. However if an item doesn't like one and works OK withoug, fairy snuff. I find them handy to have.

 

[Steven Toy]

Yeah, I guess plugging expensive gear into socket extensions costing pennies doesn't sit well with most folks — regardless of how it might sound.

These things are comparative. A more expensive solution may be beneficial, depending on a multitude of factors.

 

[Amber Audio]

When I had a multi-box Naim system which grew over a number of years I found Grahams Hydra’s worth using and improved the sound compared to using normal mains leads/extension strips/blocks - this was with standard house mains not a separate CU/sockets. Interestingly over Covid when I tried to buy an 8 way Hydra from Grahams they refused to make one up cos it was for my 8 box Cyrus system not a Naim one - assume safety concerns, dunno….

I haven’t noticed any improvements after the separate mains went in, but this house has a good stable electricity supply, only 20 years old and is in a town. I’ve lived in the area many years and one more rural house in the 80’s had awful power fluctuations, my TT would slow down/speed up and lights dim regularly.

I was having everything checked for safety, CU replaced and some solar work done so it made sense to get the HiFi Mains done for peace of mind. The cost was minimal compared to the overall project - small Hagar CU, few metres of cable and a few sockets, luckily the hifi racks are on the opposite side of the wall the fuse-board sits on. To give an idea and depending on factors like distance and sparky hourly rate I’d guess £200 would be a ball park cost, compared to the cost of folks system on here that’s probably a worthwhile spend for a good few.

 

[Mike Reed]

I'm using it to mean a set of Mains sockets on a strip/board that has a flying lead to a standard wall-socket mains plug.

Thanks, Jim, but Theo above has kindly clarified things via Wikipaedia's American aspect (I've not heard of some of those alternative names). Note the line that in the U.K., a distribution board is called a consumer unit. I guess those you and everyone has are called multi-way extension leads and prob. a fair few other names. A mains block is the same but more substantial, with sockets mounted into a substantial housing, usually with sockets in pairs.

My Russ Andrews 8 way block was about £350 in 2001; it was their top model. Nearly two grand for a signature version now is mind-blowing, but does having his signature in gold leaf on every internal connecting cable really enhance s.q,? i also bought a 'Yellow' 4 way extension lead from him (£25?) at the time which had the enormous advantage of having the neon light removed. (sarcasm smiley).

 

[Steven Toy]

When I had a multi-box Naim system which grew over a number of years I found Grahams Hydra’s worth using and improved the sound compared to using normal mains leads/extension strips/blocks - this was with standard house mains not a separate CU/sockets. Interestingly over Covid when I tried to buy an 8 way Hydra from Grahams they refused to make one up cos it was for my 8 box Cyrus system not a Naim one - assume safety concerns, dunno….

I haven’t noticed any improvements after the separate mains went in, but this house has a good stable electricity supply, only 20 years old and is in a town. I’ve lived in the area many years and one more rural house in the 80’s had awful power fluctuations, my TT would slow down/speed up and lights dim regularly.

I was having everything checked for safety, CU replaced and some solar work done so it made sense to get the HiFi Mains done for peace of mind. The cost was minimal compared to the overall project - small Hagar CU, few metres of cable and a few sockets, luckily the hifi racks are on the opposite side of the wall the fuse-board sits on. To give an idea and depending on factors like distance and sparky hourly rate I’d guess £200 would be a ball park cost, compared to the cost of folks system on here that’s probably a worthwhile spend for a good few.

My dedicated CU + radials + separate earthing cost me £400 14 years ago, but that included installation by a qualified electrician. This was subsequently verified as safe by engineers from National Grid a few weeks later, when they upgraded the main fuse, free of charge.

 

[Mike Reed]

luckily the hifi racks are on the opposite side of the wall the fuse-board sits on. To give an idea and depending on factors like distance and sparky hourly rate I’d guess £200 would be a ball park cost, compared to the cost of folks system on here that’s probably a worthwhile spend for a good few.

Yes, very convenient but a full dedicated radial installation with two or more radials would be a lot more than that, even if the cables were so simply routed. C.U. alone isn't cheap, then the junction box (Henley?), then tails, the RCBOs for each radial plus 4, 6 or 10mm2 T & E plus sparks' time and certification. Obv., using an existing c.u. saves a fair bit, but is not really a fully dedicated affair as the same busbar is used and prob. the same RCD. Still better that ring mains though.

Like you, my domestic urban house mains is 21 years old, so relatively new.

 

[Mike Reed]

My dedicated CU + radials + separate earthing cost me £400 14 years ago, but that included installation by a qualified electrician.

Did you do the routing, Steven? I did all mine with a 100 metre drum of cable (or was it 50?). A hell of a difficult job, up the living room wall, over the office above under floorboards and down the hall wall and through into the garage. Plus the boxing in and terminations ((patresses). About 10 metres each radial. Totally o.t.t. but that was deemed progress in s.q. then !!!!

 

[Steven Toy]

Did you do the routing, Steven? I did all mine with a 100 metre drum of cable (or was it 50?). A hell of a difficult job, up the living room wall, over the office above under floorboards and down the hall wall and through into the garage. Plus the boxing in and terminations ((patresses). About 10 metres each radial. Totally o.t.t. but that was deemed progress in s.q. then !!!!

The routing was done by the electrician. The 10 mm² cable from electricity meter to CU is about 10 metres long. The 6 mm² radials are very short, because the bank of 4 sockets is adjacent to the CU.

 

[herb]

Many years ago I bought an RA £80 power block which could be screwed to a wall or not. I thought it sounded thin and precise and it improved my TV picture. Screwed to a wall it still sounded thin but different, not acceptable as it coloured the sound. So I ripped it apart to find a thick PCB with tracks for the power distribution. I decided not to use a power block at all also accepting that the extra connections involved affected the sound. No need now with only two boxes.

 

[Craig B]

I use a 6 way one of these https://www.hammfg.com/fr/news/311-hammond-19-rack-mount-and-stand-alone-power-distribution-strips

Just received one, will report back once I've rewired my plugs! At least it's neater, makes a lot more sense for the leads to come upwards off the floor.

Hammond Manufacturing have an interesting history going back to 1916 over here in Guelph, Ontario. They were a client of mine for a while back in the late '90s through early '00s. This is how I came to have one of their hospital grade mains blocks, as their head of production engineering suggested one of these as the best long term bet for maintaining tight contact, as well as for having the best ground scheme in the business. I hadn't notice them going after other mains markets until I followed the link above. I suppose the writing would have been on the wall with the uptake in IEC sockets compliance worldwide (thanks to the computer industry).

 

[Heckyman]

Hammond Manufacturing have an interesting history going back to 1916 over here in Guelph, Ontario. They were a client of mine for a while back in the late '90s through early '00s. This is how I came to have one of their hospital grade mains blocks, as their head of production engineering suggested one of these as the best long term bet for maintaining tight contact, as well as for having the best ground scheme in the business. I hadn't notice them going after other mains markets until I followed the link above. I suppose the writing would have been on the wall with the uptake in IEC sockets compliance worldwide (thanks to the computer industry).

The radial was first and made a slight improvement, less grainy sounding. Next was the block and I had to reterminate my power leads with Schurter IEC plugs. This was an all round improvement like a source upgrade, no grain, more clearly defined everything really. A cumulative effect for sure and I'm using standard cables for all the mains. No complaints at all with the performance.

Well, well, well. I can only concur — the improvement putting in this block is very obvious with no drawbacks, thanks for the recommendation, Mike!

FWIW, In the block I only have a router and ONT (both powered by a single old Musical Fidelity V-PSU) and a Macmini M2 powered by a Teradak R-Core LPS. Amp is still direct to wall as its current mains cable is too thick to rewire!

What was funny was that a bothersome hum from my amp through the speakers, reduced significantly as soon as I plugged in the block, even though the amp was only plugged in to the adjacent wall socket rather than the block itself.

I haven't a clue how it works, but it certainly does (in my system). And I have tried a few things that have made little / no difference despite not being cheap. Maybe you can ask your contact @Craig B ?!?

 

[Craig B]

I haven't a clue how it works, but it certainly does (in my system). And I have tried a few things that have made little / no difference despite not being cheap. Maybe you can ask your contact @Craig B ?!?

That was decades ago and the conversations were all rather 'objective' as opposed to 'audiophile subjective'. IOW, it wasn't about sound quality, per se, only reliable electrical connections with a properly implemented earth path.

 

[clap]

Oyaide power block here. It made a tremendous difference to my system..