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What's Your Power Block.

What's a power block? I have a totally standard 13A extension, can't remember where I bought it. Argos maybe.
 
How do the Graham's Hydra type solutions rate nowadays compared to the conventional mains block ?
(I know the Hydra was originaly advocated as a solution to Naim components specifically)


 
Spiderous said:
One of these tacima jobs
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My issue with such products is apart from the very fancy clear section highlighting that it has some ferrite cores in it (all very nice), there is zero information regarding the internal construction of the block or the wire between block and plug.

If I'm going to pay over the normal price for a mains extension I want to know that the internals are made from thick high copper content bus bars, and cable capable of higher current capablity than a stock 13A extension would use.
 
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Tony L said:
Yes, absolutely. I do it with everything aside from the record deck. It saves wear on the kit‘s on/off switch, keeps the front panel free of fingermarks etc. If I’m going to wear anything out I’d far prefer it to be an easy to replace bog-standard switched mains socket!
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Why not the record deck?
 
Tony L said:
Bargain! FWIW I’ve paid £50-75 a piece for my three, which is cheaper than I could make equivalents, especially given the grey RS socket tray is no longer available.
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Well yeah, thing is, its in my sons room with an lamp, phone charger and echo device on it lol.
 
Tony L said:
Yes, absolutely. I do it with everything aside from the record deck. It saves wear on the kit‘s on/off switch, keeps the front panel free of fingermarks etc. If I’m going to wear anything out I’d far prefer it to be an easy to replace bog-standard switched mains socket!
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Hi Tony. Would it make any difference to this with boxes that have startup protection circuits in them? For example my C-J solid state has 2 audible clicks when powering up and I think that the second one is some sort of relay switch kicking in (I'm not that techy, so I may be describing it incorrectly).
I would like to turn this amp and my valve preamp on/off at the wall or power block instead of the front switch, as I have read about switch failures on them. However, just double-checking that this would not be putting speakers at risk.
 
artoly said:
Hi Tony. Would it make any difference to this with boxes that have startup protection circuits in them? For example my C-J solid state has 2 audible clicks when powering up and I think that the second one is some sort of relay switch kicking in (I'm not that techy, so I may be describing it incorrectly).
I would like to turn this amp and my valve preamp on/off at the wall or power block instead of the front switch, as I have read about switch failures on them. However, just double-checking that this would not be putting speakers at risk.
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Relays are driven by inrush current, rather than mechanical means, so there are no issues wrt turning on or off at the mains vs. front panel switch.

Having said that, some types of press switches may be prone to having their spring mechanism go weak from being left on/compressed long term. This doesn't necessarily apply to rocker, toggle, or electronic switches (the latter typically triggering a relay elsewhere).
 
Craig B said:
Having said that, some types of press switches may be prone to having their spring mechanism go weak from being left on/compressed long term. This doesn't necessarily apply to rocker, toggle, or electronic switches (the latter typically triggering a relay elsewhere).
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Thanks Craig. Both pre and pwr amps have press switches in my case. Perhaps mixing it up a bit between using front switch and block/wall switches might be best for longevity then.

(Edit: I could be wrong. They are buttons, but not the type that stay in when pushed, so perhaps they could be electronic. I could ask on the respective ARC and CJ sites for these Ref 3 and Prem 350 pre/pwr's.
 
Beobloke said:
Mine are from the centre aisle of Lidl.
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Did you ever compare them to those from Aldi?

Beobloke said:
They make a big, difference as, without them, I haven’t got enough sockets to power everything.
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I found that the length of cable attached to the block also can make a huge difference. And not just for the music system, also for the christmas tree.
 
I had a dedicated mains spur installed for the stereo whilst having the conservatory built.
For my source, a trichord balanced PSU. I prefer my power amp connected directly to the mains. Coherent mains cable again for the source.
 
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There’s some potential Darwin awards in this thread.

But on a serious note some of the advice is bloody dangerous, even if it is a joke. There are people here that will believe posts telling them to bypass fuses and re-solder live wires in plugs and then kill themselves or their family members.

If I was Tony I wouldn’t allow any discussion of changes to domestic electricity supply, there’s just too many idiots here who would try this stuff.
 
Has anyone taken advice from Russ Andrews ?
His power blocks seem reasonably priced.
He has a ‘Signature’ model, only £1,994.
Seems a lot to pay for someone’s signature
 
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