+1They were extremely undervalued up until about ten years ago. It's just fashion; the 124 took the Thorens desirability crown, yet personally, I prefer the 125, great decks both, however.
Looks great, I bet that would clean up very nicely. I really like the look of the 125; very understated ‘70s (I know it is technically a ‘60s deck, but even so!).
Yes, both iterations were made by EMT in Lahr.Made by EMT, weren't they?
I've always thought it looks great (even better with the third cueing switch). Subconsciously that's probably why I bought it. Whether it worked or not was probably secondary - but when I was at school and got my first audio stuff c.1970 the 125 is the deck I would have bought if I could have afforded it. I had to make do with a BSR MP60 instead.
I've always thought it looks great (even better with the third cueing switch). Subconsciously that's probably why I bought it. Whether it worked or not was probably secondary - but when I was at school and got my first audio stuff c.1970 the 125 is the deck I would have bought if I could have afforded it. I had to make do with a BSR MP60 instead.
Analogue Department should be first port of call, although there’s not as much info on the 125 there as on the 160, so it’s a question of searching out bits of info across lots of sites, including this one.Well, mine isn't mint and it's in a cupboard rather than under the bed - but they must have been severely undervalued at the time I bought it at the NVCF around ten years ago. I think I paid £60 including hinged lid. It rotates at the correct speeds, or at least did back then - it's been in the cupboard ever since. Is there a good website for refurb/servicing tips?
Analogue Department should be first port of call, although there’s not as much info on the 125 there as on the 160, so it’s a question of searching out bits of info across lots of sites, including this one.
There’s not much to a service if the electronics are ok, but setting the suspension is an awkward affair. Levelling it is easily done with the cups, but then centring the chassis and getting a pistonic bounce requires you to lift off the chassis, twist the springs, set back down in the cups, repeat. You can glue the rubber grommets holding the springs to the chassis to make this easier. I think getting this right is quite important: mine tends to yaw if the level or bounce is off, probably thanks partly to the sloppy bearing and wobbly motor.
The best thing you can do for now is leave the platter off as this will allow the springs to decompress. I'd have the sub-platter out for long term storage as well.Thanks for that. Mine definitely needs levelling, you can see that in the photo. And the suspension seems very bouncy indeed - is that normal?
I’m not a fan of the four spring suspension or the nylon adjusters either.
As you've no doubt noticed, there isn't a whole lot of travel between too high and too low. As long as it floats freely, is level, and not rubbing the plinth sides, all is well.
I've never managed to find a fourth suspension spring in any of mine.