TD125 Vs LP12
- Thread starter matt j
- Start date
Mike P
Trade: Pickwell Audio
+1
Marchbanks
Hat and Beard member
I've always thought it looks great (even better with the third cueing switch). I’m sure subconsciously that’s why I bought it. Whether it worked or not was probably secondary - but when I was at school and got my first audio stuff c.1970 the 125 is the deck I would have bought if I could have afforded it. I had to make do with a BSR MP60 instead.
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Craig B
Re:trophile
Yes, both iterations were made by EMT in Lahr.
The EMT equivalent was the 928 broadcast turntable; seen here fitted to the same CE509 mounting frame as was available for the 'Chassis-Version' TD-125...
Tony L
Administrator
It was the front-end of the system that got me hooked on hi-fi (with a 3009/V15, Quad 33/303 and Ditton 66). After hearing that as a 13 or 14 year old nothing was ever the same again, I knew I needed a proper hi-fi system!
Craig B
Re:trophile
Have to agree that the 'AB' version was the best from an aesthetic POV. I'd like to add one to my collection, along with an 'LB'.
Here is a beautifully restored example by Schopper AG in their 'SCHOPPER Konsole in amerikanischem Nussbaum'...
They also do an 'LB' replacement plinth, but I don't believe that they have the conversion parts...
Seanm
pfm Member
Analogue Department should be first port of call, although there’s not as much info on the 125 there as on the 160, so it’s a question of searching out bits of info across lots of sites, including this one.Well, mine isn't mint and it's in a cupboard rather than under the bed - but they must have been severely undervalued at the time I bought it at the NVCF around ten years ago. I think I paid £60 including hinged lid. It rotates at the correct speeds, or at least did back then - it's been in the cupboard ever since. Is there a good website for refurb/servicing tips?
There’s not much to a service if the electronics are ok, but setting the suspension is an awkward affair. Levelling it is easily done with the cups, but then centring the chassis and getting a pistonic bounce requires you to lift off the chassis, twist the springs, set back down in the cups, repeat. You can glue the rubber grommets holding the springs to the chassis to make this easier. I think getting this right is quite important: mine tends to yaw if the level or bounce is off, probably thanks partly to the sloppy bearing and wobbly motor.
Marchbanks
Hat and Beard member
Thanks for that. Mine definitely needs levelling, you can see that in the photo. And the suspension seems very bouncy indeed - is that normal?
Craig B
Re:trophile
The best thing you can do for now is leave the platter off as this will allow the springs to decompress. I'd have the sub-platter out for long term storage as well.
You certainly did well at 60 quid.
Craig B
Re:trophile
I've never managed to find a fourth suspension spring in any of mine.
One does need to be careful with the adjusters though, as the threads are easily stripped, leaving one at the mercy of the eBay mercenaries.
Craig B
Re:trophile
The top plate is actually the sub-chassis on the TD-125, therefore, there is no independent vertical movement between it and the platter during play.
Perhaps, you meant the top plate/sub-chassis rubbing the plinth round the edges, or the sub-chassis seeming to bottom out below deck?
Perhaps, you meant the top plate/sub-chassis rubbing the plinth round the edges, or the sub-chassis seeming to bottom out below deck?
Craig B
Re:trophile
Oh, I see what you mean now.
The answer is stop doing that.
Generally, the suspension is at the correct height when the top plate (and, by extension, the arm board) is flush with the top of the alloy control fascia. Assuming both the plinth and chassis plate are level, the sub-chassis will sit a bit lower than the top edge of the wooden plinth all round, but not so low as to bottom.
As you've no doubt noticed, there isn't a whole lot of travel between too high and too low. As long as it floats freely, is level, and not rubbing the plinth sides, all is well.
WRT keeping the plate and arm board clear of the plinth sides, if you remove all three springs and determine which side of each spring is of lower tension, then replace them with the lower tension side of each toward the main bearing, the chassis will centre itself within the plinth upon reassembly.
The answer is stop doing that.
Generally, the suspension is at the correct height when the top plate (and, by extension, the arm board) is flush with the top of the alloy control fascia. Assuming both the plinth and chassis plate are level, the sub-chassis will sit a bit lower than the top edge of the wooden plinth all round, but not so low as to bottom.
As you've no doubt noticed, there isn't a whole lot of travel between too high and too low. As long as it floats freely, is level, and not rubbing the plinth sides, all is well.
WRT keeping the plate and arm board clear of the plinth sides, if you remove all three springs and determine which side of each spring is of lower tension, then replace them with the lower tension side of each toward the main bearing, the chassis will centre itself within the plinth upon reassembly.
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That's the bit I was just checking on, so all is well cheers.
Analogue is bloodless self-flagellation……………………. (to which I am semi-addicted, it has to be said)
Personal perception/taste and inter-play of the umpteen, infinitely variable, bits of kit in any one system between vinyl and ears are totally imponderable and unpredictable. Buy second-hand, compare and have a play (listen), and make your own choice, and sod what anyone else thinks. If the new bit of kit turns out to be a turkey, only hassle, rather than significant ££ should be involved and it all adds to the background knowledge/experience.
Personal perception/taste and inter-play of the umpteen, infinitely variable, bits of kit in any one system between vinyl and ears are totally imponderable and unpredictable. Buy second-hand, compare and have a play (listen), and make your own choice, and sod what anyone else thinks. If the new bit of kit turns out to be a turkey, only hassle, rather than significant ££ should be involved and it all adds to the background knowledge/experience.
sktn77a
pfm Member
I had a TD125/SME3009/S2 from 1970 until 1982 and was very happy with it. I upgraded to an LP12/Ittok in 1982 and noticed a subtle improvement (which might have been entirely due to the arm and/or cartridge). After upgrading the LP12 occasionally over the next 20 years (Valhalla, Cirkus), I finally replaced it with another LP12/Ekos which was current spec at the time. For what I play LPs now, I'm sticking with that setup, although I think I could have lived quite happily with my TD125/3009 intil I'm pushing up daisies!