SVS 3000 micro with a dual 8” drivers goes down to 23Hz with -3dB, quite tiny compared to others too but bit above OP budget.
Subs n Lows
- Thread starter IWC Doppel
- Start date
"Goes down to" at -3dB, I would suggest (the normal limit when quoting frequency specs) is pretty average.
Flat to 20Hz is a good sub - AFAIAC. Flat to the magic 16Hz organ tone is a great sub!
Not sure what you’re on aboutAnd "goes down to" - what does that mean? -3dB, I would suggest (the normal limit when quoting frequency specs).
Flat to 20Hz is a good sub - AFAIAC. Flat to the magic 16Hz organ tone is a great sub!
Sorry, I edited my post after yours ... see if what I subsequently wrote makes more sense.
It's quite good for the size and 8" drivers as far as I'm concerned and my post was directed at capabilities of 8" driver subs that's why I quoted the post related to my reply"Goes down to" at -3dB, I would suggest (the normal limit when quoting frequency specs) is pretty average.
Flat to 20Hz is a good sub - AFAIAC. Flat to the magic 16Hz organ tone is a great sub!
camverton
pfm Member
The SVS1000pro with a 12 inch driver has remarkably small external dimensions for the driver size. The price for that is some vibration from the cabinet wall which might have an additive effect if in a cabinet.
they create higher pressure than single driver is capable without going into distortion ,
no it doesn't work that way I'm afraid
camverton
pfm Member
It is a way of getting more driver area and lower bass in a smaller package. I can’t bring the formula to mind but, unfortunately, two 8 inch drivers aren’t equivalent to a 16 inch driver.
what sort of SPL levels did you experience the resonance at ? I've had couple 1000pro in the past but haven't realised anything worrying, I don't listen too loud though and subs were just used to fill a bit in and minimize decay and smooth peaks a bit. I'm thinking about installing couple of subs again as we have moved since but I'm actually leaning towards 3000micros as I always dropped output from 30dB down and don't bother me if goes very low
music fiend
life lusting
A single 16" driver has the area of about four 8" drivers.
S-Man
StrivingON
𝑨 = π𝒓²
Obviously r is the radius is the driver cone.
Or even better: look up the effective area in the driver data sheet.
Double the diameter = 4x the area
music fiend
life lusting
Yep, that's the formula. In terms of effective areas there can be some minor differences vs theoretical sizes of course.
As everything else in life size (or any other spec) isn't everything!
camverton
pfm Member
Felt it when playing stuff like Yello at about 80dB listening position in a room 4x7m. Whether the ratio of cabinet resonance to driver output was anything to worry about I couldn’t really say but I suspect not and of course they aren’t the highest quality subs going by any means.
Is an ABR driver something that would be beneficial to a sub? It is a feature of Cambridge Audio's Minx 301, in addition to it's 8" primary driver.
From the CA blurb.
"Minx X301 has an 8" (200mm) Auxiliary Bass Radiator (ABR) in addition to its primary powered driver. This means the subwoofer doesn't require an open box or enormous cabinet to give great bass. Instead, X301 produces a rich, warm bass from within its relatively modest proportions"
From the CA blurb.
"Minx X301 has an 8" (200mm) Auxiliary Bass Radiator (ABR) in addition to its primary powered driver. This means the subwoofer doesn't require an open box or enormous cabinet to give great bass. Instead, X301 produces a rich, warm bass from within its relatively modest proportions"
tuga
Legal Alien
Not that different from a reflex port.
Is this a good thing? (in case you've not read back far enough I know next to nothing about subs and their inner workings
)
IWC Doppel
pfm Member
There's something that's worth pointing out here. There are two general groups of people here:
These two groups are fundamentally incompatible, and will general view the other with derision and dismissal.
- The first doesn't feel it's possible to tune a sub with their ears, and probably wouldn't trust the results if they did. They prefer calibrated measurement equipment, and enjoy acquiring the gear and skills necessary to do the task. In the end, they feel that their approach is "correct", and therefore everyone should use it.
- The second isn't so keen to pull out the laboratory equipment. They're willing to experiment with the settings directly, gauging the result over time with their own ears and sensibilities. They typically achieve results which are satisfying to them, which is all that really matters with this hobby.
Mike, they are not incomptable for me. I use both and look at what compromise sounds best and remove, reduce some PEQ filters to see how it sounds, if you have a big node fattening it looks good but often sounds 'flat' as the ear is expecting a little hump, it's managing the node resonance the RT60's in this area to avoid the soft smeared bass node. I have ended up with a less is more approach. But did do a lot of REW analysis to understand the phase changes of the subs and fronts as they do not change at the same rate. I have tried a number of changes that looked better but sounded worse. Also never measured a cable change but easy to hear it.
camverton
pfm Member
As it happens I’ve finally got around to installing a couple of SVS 1000pros in my changed around main system. With REW I set them up in about an hour and am listening to one of my Tidal mixes that has a lot of deep bass on the tracks. Sounds great and there is absolutely no way I could have got to this point by listening alone (as I used to do) and without reference to REW.
I am running the mains (Quad stats) full range with the subs coming up underneath so to speak. To get to this point I had to decide on and adjust the following parameters: gain, low pass filter and slope, polarity, phase, parametric EQ, room gain compensation. Adjusting one affects the others so trying to do it by ear I would soon end up going round in circles, and then there is the problem of finding tracks which have bass at all low frequencies from 20 Hz to past the point where the sub is interacting with the mains. I have the advantage of having done this a few times before and on an initial listen I don’t think I’ll need to tweak the gain.
I suspect that anyone who has integrated a sub both by ear and measurement won’t find much to disagree with in the above. For anyone who reckons they can do it at least as well by ear alone I would respectfully suggest they give the measurement approach a try; unless they have been lucky before they stand to gain a lot. There is a snag, however, and that is that one needs a measurement mic and needs to acquire a working knowledge of how to use and understand the results REW gives.
I am running the mains (Quad stats) full range with the subs coming up underneath so to speak. To get to this point I had to decide on and adjust the following parameters: gain, low pass filter and slope, polarity, phase, parametric EQ, room gain compensation. Adjusting one affects the others so trying to do it by ear I would soon end up going round in circles, and then there is the problem of finding tracks which have bass at all low frequencies from 20 Hz to past the point where the sub is interacting with the mains. I have the advantage of having done this a few times before and on an initial listen I don’t think I’ll need to tweak the gain.
I suspect that anyone who has integrated a sub both by ear and measurement won’t find much to disagree with in the above. For anyone who reckons they can do it at least as well by ear alone I would respectfully suggest they give the measurement approach a try; unless they have been lucky before they stand to gain a lot. There is a snag, however, and that is that one needs a measurement mic and needs to acquire a working knowledge of how to use and understand the results REW gives.
Yes, REW is a wonderful tool.
I appreciate that's the simple way to add a pair of subs ... but not running the Quads full range - ie. applying a HP filter - has two big advantages:
1. it reduces the distortion associated with LFs.
2. and it takes a lot of the load off the amp driving the mains ... allowing it to better service the remaining frequencies.