a.palfreyman
pfm Member
Small block of wood with a piece of wet-n-dry superglued to one flat face.
Planet 2000 cdp fix: redux!
- Thread starter The Captain
- Start date
The Captain
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Great idea thanks.
@ansis hi thanks- yes I was eying these 4 motor fixings myself, & the single 'green' screw: so I'm fully on board with how I would replace the mech. Great.
I'm really hoping I don't have to though! It's still quite a terrifying prospect.
The main pcb ribbon connector, getting this back in I think will be the hardest bit tbh.
Dowser
Learning to bodge again..
I now know of 5 213 mechs from same AliExpress seller that all worked (4 for me, one for James on here), no issues. Let me know if you’d like the link
to add: at £11 though, not 7
The Captain
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Hi chaps, well I've got it all back together! couldn't wait overnight for the glue.. gave it 2 hrs, bit of wet n dry stuck on half a clothes peg, did some very careful sanding. Then cleaned & relubed cogs.
I've got my 1st cd playing now, first song in. It's by mum (icelandic) and is about the -very worst- choice cd, as it has even more blips & ticks than that my jon hopkins one.
I'm rather excited. And relieved getting the bigass ribbon back in especially, as I nicked one of the tiny tracks removing it.. so was dreading if I did get it back in I might have damaged it.
Bar went back in fine from the clip end, not a reverse of the way it came out (I tried this way but found very hard to do). This way is much easier (& surely more logical too). Maybe in fact it's removal's better this way too (rega people- watch my thread & learn ;-).
2 songs in.. no skips. Fingers/ everything crossed. Boy this cdp sounds good too btw.
Capt.
I've got my 1st cd playing now, first song in. It's by mum (icelandic) and is about the -very worst- choice cd, as it has even more blips & ticks than that my jon hopkins one.
I'm rather excited. And relieved getting the bigass ribbon back in especially, as I nicked one of the tiny tracks removing it.. so was dreading if I did get it back in I might have damaged it.
Bar went back in fine from the clip end, not a reverse of the way it came out (I tried this way but found very hard to do). This way is much easier (& surely more logical too). Maybe in fact it's removal's better this way too (rega people- watch my thread & learn ;-).
2 songs in.. no skips. Fingers/ everything crossed. Boy this cdp sounds good too btw.
Capt.
I now know of 5 213 mechs from same AliExpress seller that all worked (4 for me, one for James on here), no issues. Let me know if you’d like the link
Nah I don't play lottery anymore, even so with ali )))
The Captain
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Ansis, I think your idea to check the rail for cracks.. has been invaluable advice.
It's just played the whole cd without skipping. Only 2nd time this has happened, so seems consistent with having done the repair.
I'll monitor it of course/ I won't conclude it's fixed just yet, but even if I have to change the mech.. I know exactly how to now thanks to the replies. So as it is, ironically I didn't even need to solder/ desolder the blob spot, as I carefully left the block tethered via it's small ribbon ( just being extra careful whilst doing the rail work).
Great help y'all. I'll update after an evening of cd's, & hopefully a very positive conclusion.
Capt (Finally There Is No-one, by mum [from Iceland].. do have a listen: kicks sigor ros roundly into touch).
Honestly I like only their first album which is great, afterwards they became too famous, U2-likeish if you know what I mean.
The Captain
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Yes I know what you mean. Tbh I can't even do 1 album of sigor ros. This mum album is a favourite of all my cd's, & it's audio quality is great too: the tinkly winkly highs especially (I actually have a soft spot for 'heyday' U2!).
Their popularity is as much of a mystery to me, as radiohead's.
Then you should try Tappi Tikarrass if you haven't already, I somewhat confused your mum record with your mum not these Islandic babes.
After ok computer yes agree, as is Mogwai's after come on die young.
The Captain
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Omg. 2 cd's played without skipping! Still I'm not counting all my chickens just yet. Don't tempt fate.
I wonder how this crack actually happened though. I can only see this placcy rail as like a 'light support' rail, the main metal rail supporting the vast majority of the block, so I can't envisage any great strain on this placcy rail at all.
Any ideas? If ansis suggested it, then it's obviously a facet that affects mechanisms however frequently. But what could cause such a crack I wonder-? Some sort of friction 'jam' perhaps? (Which might mean a super dry rail as cuase for this if so). I can't think of anything logical.
Capt
I wonder how this crack actually happened though. I can only see this placcy rail as like a 'light support' rail, the main metal rail supporting the vast majority of the block, so I can't envisage any great strain on this placcy rail at all.
Any ideas? If ansis suggested it, then it's obviously a facet that affects mechanisms however frequently. But what could cause such a crack I wonder-? Some sort of friction 'jam' perhaps? (Which might mean a super dry rail as cuase for this if so). I can't think of anything logical.
Capt
Craig B
Re:trophile
It's all that salt air whilst spinning your Icelandic sirens at sea, Capt.
Glad to hear that you are hearing them again, though.
a.palfreyman
pfm Member
The Captain
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Argh.... NUTS! Bad skipping started again.
Grrrr..
Grrrr..
The Captain
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Haha. Well I do like a screechy siren, another one on now Kate Bush/ aeriel.
Now, this has a bad scratch end of cd1.. which is where the skipping happened. The 2nd cd's just played fine, no skips; & it's a rarity in my collection: both cd's scratched/ Discs only G+ at best. A demanding test.
So.. cdp could still be fixed despite this hiccup.
---
I do hear some prominent motor noise ( there before my repair) not enough to intrude listening really, but not right.. & would do if cd on low volume. Anything you could think I could try?
Craig B
Re:trophile
I've always detected a whirr from my original Planet since new, however, I put this down to a combination of the exposed CD clamp/lid, and the mech not necessarily being as isolated from the rigid player chassis as some. IOW, isolation from external vibration is a combination of the CD player feet below and the 4 rubber washers that the mech mounting screws interface with. I don't sit near mine, so I've not found operation noise to be intrusive. Were I using it in the near field, I might think differently.
Will PM with more info soon.
a.palfreyman
pfm Member
If it is regularly playing through tracks 3 and 4 or there-abouts (where you were getting your original bad skipping) it isn't that. I bet if you'd timed it before repair, it would probably have been (say) 18 mins +/- a few seconds from the start of the CD every time. I have some CDs with circular scratches that won't play, drives the mechanism nuts! And my old Philips CD160 motor can be heard in very quiet passages from 7ft away...
The Captain
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Hi 'freyman, good points there. Yes I did before in fact put a timer on start of cd's, but only found a 'general vague' correlation between timing of the start of skipping. I was expecting to see 20 ish mins, each time, corresponding to a centre position of the crack.. fuelling my suspicion this was likely the cause.
Anyway, the positive thing is it played another cd without skipping last night. I'll have a decent opinion on my repair success later today I'd have thought.
@Craig B Yes this operation noise may have something to do with the clamp. It's an odd lid design, & possibly this is generating at least half the noise: there's a central spinning clamp, housed in the "star-trek lid", which has a bit of 'breathing room' ( I guess in order to settle on the cd centrally). And once playing it wobbles slightly. An odd design, but I think meant to be this way. It wasn't continued on with the similar looking apollo tho- this had no such clamp-within-lid.. I think you just press the cd onto the (sanyo) platter & it gently locks.
Anyway cant be too fussy, & I can live with it as is. I was kinda wondering if a drop of oil on the motor spindle.. considering lack of lube possibly led to a dry placcy rail/ friction 'jam'/ crack happening. IE a super dry room maybe.
Thanks chaps, capt
Dowser
Learning to bodge again..
Remember, different density’s of CDs exist depending on how long they are - so 20 mins in on a 60 minute album does not mean you will hit the bump at 20 mins in on a 90 minute album. I assume anyhow, normally data appears to go most of the way to the inside of the disc. The common 213 chassis crack will skip at the same time on each individual disc play…if it‘s going too…you also have the data buffer and the sled motor is not always moving, so this issue leads to pretty random skipping in my experience.
The Captain
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Aha cd density is something I'd not thought of before. I'm so used to Lp's.
I thought it read a disc from the inside to the outside. I think this is so. So a short 30m album will have a thick vacant band on the periphery of the cd-?
Now I hadn't heard anyone talk of "the common 213 chassis crack" before. Actually I can't understand all of your post from this point onward, as it seems to contradict the info preceding it (to me that is.. but can't do if you're writing it, so I'm back in the 'not understanding boat' here). Maybe you could re-interpret this bit for me?
To update: it's played another few cd's today fine. But did skip badly on one, at the same place the KBush disc did (last 1 minute of the whole cd). Looking at it I noticed a very similar scratch in a very similar place, periphery of disc/ correspondong to the end of the data. So I'm playing last tracks on a few cd's now to determine what's what.
So -I believe- I have indeed fixed it. Or rather ansis diagnosed it, I found it, & your terrific help chaps guided me along to fix it.
Indebted. Capt
a.palfreyman
pfm Member
Stop putting cr4p discs in it and enjoy.
In all seriousness just put you better discs through it and see how you go. My CD160 is more sensitive to disc damage than either of my transports are. I've tried realigning the laser using a clear plastic disc but several trials with small adjustments made no difference.
Yep, CDs play inside to outside and I have plenty of 40 minute-ish albums where the data barely goes beyond about 2/3 the way to the outside.
In all seriousness just put you better discs through it and see how you go. My CD160 is more sensitive to disc damage than either of my transports are. I've tried realigning the laser using a clear plastic disc but several trials with small adjustments made no difference.
Yep, CDs play inside to outside and I have plenty of 40 minute-ish albums where the data barely goes beyond about 2/3 the way to the outside.