MDAC first listen (part III)
- Thread starter John_73
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Interesting, there are so many options...
I agree that you can get improved sound from a stripped down computer. I can hear the difference between my macbook air (SSD and Fidellia/Pure Music) over an budget Acer 15" and noisey (fan) that I picked up spare from work which was used simply for testing on low speed machines.
However there are so many options… I am so very lost! I am pretty sure its a given - whatever OS is used it needs to be as stripped back as possible (can't do any harm if it's sole purpose is for music), Should be using SSD drives however that can get expensive when you have a 1tb music collection, Need to ensure you are sending out information bit perfect, it needs to be noiseless/fanless/no moving parts, it needs to have no radio items (Wi-fi built into the MB, Bluetooth and all that stuff), Seperate power supply (most of those atom machines are) and importantly low power consumption. My Power amp already kills my electricity bill every month and electricity is not getting cheaper.
Then you have to think about how to output the information to the DAC and which is the best way to do it. I own an M-DAC and would like to achieve 192/24 and I guess a lot of other people would like to achieve that too. However you can only do that by using the Co-Axial connection, but is that going to produce worse results then utilising the A-Sync USB? I have no idea lol! So its either the:
SOTm USB PCI card which comes in at £240 straight to the M-DAC
M2 EVO which comes in at £300 or there abouts… (when you look at building/buying a power supply and maybe even throwing in that world clock) on the worst side of 500 and closer to a 1000.
Or you could utilise both which almost at the cost of the dac without including anything else. How big would the gains have to be to justify that, or I could just buy another M-dac and build a setup around it in another room!
How big is the difference between:
The M2 Hiface vs EVO.
Musical Fidelity – Vlink
Special Sound Cards
SOTm stuff?
I actually think I am going to build a separate server, throw a load of disks in there for general Music/Movie and anything else.
Then build a lightweight streamer which will be a lot more flexible than existing pre-built options. Then I don’t need to worry about how many SSD’s I may need and wifi which is only there for conveinice in pre built systems.
Avoided talking about software because that another whole ball game haha!
I agree that you can get improved sound from a stripped down computer. I can hear the difference between my macbook air (SSD and Fidellia/Pure Music) over an budget Acer 15" and noisey (fan) that I picked up spare from work which was used simply for testing on low speed machines.
However there are so many options… I am so very lost! I am pretty sure its a given - whatever OS is used it needs to be as stripped back as possible (can't do any harm if it's sole purpose is for music), Should be using SSD drives however that can get expensive when you have a 1tb music collection, Need to ensure you are sending out information bit perfect, it needs to be noiseless/fanless/no moving parts, it needs to have no radio items (Wi-fi built into the MB, Bluetooth and all that stuff), Seperate power supply (most of those atom machines are) and importantly low power consumption. My Power amp already kills my electricity bill every month and electricity is not getting cheaper.
Then you have to think about how to output the information to the DAC and which is the best way to do it. I own an M-DAC and would like to achieve 192/24 and I guess a lot of other people would like to achieve that too. However you can only do that by using the Co-Axial connection, but is that going to produce worse results then utilising the A-Sync USB? I have no idea lol! So its either the:
SOTm USB PCI card which comes in at £240 straight to the M-DAC
M2 EVO which comes in at £300 or there abouts… (when you look at building/buying a power supply and maybe even throwing in that world clock) on the worst side of 500 and closer to a 1000.
Or you could utilise both which almost at the cost of the dac without including anything else. How big would the gains have to be to justify that, or I could just buy another M-dac and build a setup around it in another room!
How big is the difference between:
The M2 Hiface vs EVO.
Musical Fidelity – Vlink
Special Sound Cards
SOTm stuff?
I actually think I am going to build a separate server, throw a load of disks in there for general Music/Movie and anything else.
Then build a lightweight streamer which will be a lot more flexible than existing pre-built options. Then I don’t need to worry about how many SSD’s I may need and wifi which is only there for conveinice in pre built systems.
Avoided talking about software because that another whole ball game haha!
I suggest you try a John Kenny MK3 modified Hiface which can be had on trial basis
Where can I find out about this!?
Jumped a bit there haha:
http://www.head-fi.org/t/483900/review-jkeny-s-modified-hiface
sq225917
Bit of this, bit of that
Eiffel, you can forget about the effects of jitter with the mdac, all that counts is electrical isolation from the signal, a £35 Olimex filter will do all you need. If you'd prefer that internally to a server then the SoTm card will do likewise.
(Or just get a mac)
(Or just get a mac)
PhilCTTE
Senior mumbler
Would there be any differences in isolation between the Olimex and the Sotm ?
There looks like a fair few components on the Sotm usb card compared to the matchbox size of the Olimex. Can anyone measure the differences or effectiveness? , of course depends what operation your pc is performing and system dependant as well. I always take opinions on computer audiophile with a pinch of salt , but try to be open minded.
Plus I don't have money to burn. £30 or £240 huumphMight be an ask to far to trial a card from item audio, will email.
PhilCTTE
Senior mumbler
You say throw a load of disks in, this rather negates some of what you are trying to achieve as SSD drives are limited in size currently , I would suggest to go for NAS drives instead or at least an external USB drive.
It is a mine field and I also have no experience in what to go for , googling PC audio cards has not helped at all. Most are studio orientated and have a multitude of interfaces, multiple channels and built in DAC's .
USB has floated my boat so far. May wait for synced SBT mod , to compare, but might as well get a server sorted as well and if I prefer it I will sell the SBT.
As mentioned I want to build it in stages as funds permit. Sotm card being the final decision.
Phil - do yourself a big favour. Get it working with a bog standard USB port then, if you really want to, borrow this fancy USB card to try out. If you think it makes the sound any better, buy it. I'd have a hundred quid right now that it will sound no different into the MDAC than a standard USB port fed via an isolator.
PhilCTTE
Senior mumbler
haha
ok thats my plan, although according to reports ( yea yea I know ) its meant to be the dogs wotsits. I'm all for saving money, will use it for Ipad funds if your right. Is that a bet then ?If it wasn't for the complete failure of the SBT with hi-res material constantly losing connection with the USB drive and the main fact that its not as good as my old dell via usb ....
Have you experimented with various computer tweaks and audio cards ?
From your previous and very knowledgable posts I'll take any tips on server builds.
Are you in the cheap as chips camp, something like the HP ProLiant MicroServer N40L @ £235 with £100 cash back! (noisy as hell , so I've been reliably told)
http://www.serversplus.com/servers/tower_servers/hp_tower_servers/658553-421
Or something more bespoke
http://www.logicsupply.co.uk/ @ £347 incl postage
SolidLogic NC96FL-525 Intel Atom System with Integrated Power
Mainboard
1 x Jetway NC96FL-525 Dual Core Atom Mini-ITX Mainboard £ 81.22
Case
1 x Morex T-3410 Mini-ITX Case - Black £ 49.75
Memory
2 x Transcend DIMM DDR2 800 Memory 2 GB £ 39.72
Hard Drive
1 x Intel 320 Series SATA SSD, 80 GB £ 107.75
AC Adapter
1 x AC Power Adapter 60W, 12V (PW-12V5A) - Included £ 0.00
Fans
1 x Stock Cooling Fans for Morex Cases - Included £ 0.00
anubisgrau
pfm Member
anyone else here has a problem that some inputs remain unlocked whatever you plug into them? a source that regularly plays without any issues through coax 1 is not being recognized (locked) through coax 2. the same with the second toslink. so coax 1 and toslink 1 work, coax 2 and toslink 2 dont.
i'm not sure if there's anything to be done with them before the first use or both are just plain kaput. not really a big deal as 3 functional inputs are enough, more like a concern.
i'm not sure if there's anything to be done with them before the first use or both are just plain kaput. not really a big deal as 3 functional inputs are enough, more like a concern.
desp_erado
MDAC fan
Strange. I am using all four inputs and not seen an issue.
anubisgrau
pfm Member
could be a QC thing, as some has been reported with CD/CDQ.
i'm more interested if this could be fixed without sending the unit to a UK dealer for service, it's a few thousand miles plus custom hassle on both sides for me.
i'm more interested if this could be fixed without sending the unit to a UK dealer for service, it's a few thousand miles plus custom hassle on both sides for me.
Yeah, i can't see it sounding any better
Saying that i'd like to borrow one anyway as i like the idea of having a dedicated USB port for audio
Right now i use a USB pci-e card so at least the USB cable isn't sat right next to other multiple USB ports, although im using an isolator anyway so probly doesn't make a difference...
Hope this is not insulting for you anubisgrau, but have you tried the reset to factory settings? Worth a shot I think.
anubisgrau
pfm Member
every wise suggestion is not an insult, i will try this as soon as i'm at home. i hope there's instructions in the manual about reset. though i have no clue what's there to reset as i haven't done anything to the unit so far. let's see - if this solves the problem you'll have a pint or two.
I don't know why it might work, other than it might reboot some of the software perhaps?
It's done by turning off the Mdac then, whilst holding down the two arrowed buttons on the fascia, turn it on again, keeping the two buttons pressed down until the restart is complete.
Hope it helps.
Takes about 8-10 seconds.
It's done by turning off the Mdac then, whilst holding down the two arrowed buttons on the fascia, turn it on again, keeping the two buttons pressed down until the restart is complete.
Hope it helps.
Takes about 8-10 seconds.
I think you'll find your last phrase to be the case
anubisgrau
pfm Member
anubisgrau
pfm Member
did reset to factory settings - got 1 more input working, toslink 2.
so now it's only spdif 2 frozen. maybe i try to change cables
so now it's only spdif 2 frozen. maybe i try to change cables
yes, provided that
- Both standard and "special" ports are operating correctly and configured identically
- You can tell them apart to a statistically significant degree (i.e. considerably better than pure chance would permit)
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