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LinnT-cable Vrs AO cable

david ellwood said:
John your armcable looks dressed to perfection to me

Who's subchassis is it?


Ps: you could do with a new motor
Click to expand...

Thanks, it's a Greenstreet sub chassis. The motor is original from 1986, wasn't that the best year for motors?

Dressing an arm cable for a tonearm found in that link poses a whole new set of problems. No 90 degree exit from tonearm and no ability to unplug the arm cable from tonearm.
 
sm1907 said:
Upgrading from standard Linn black cable to AO transformed my EKOS - I'd like to compare my instalation with the Sound org AO cable instalation as well. Pics please!
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I'll be giving the AO cable a go with my Ekos soon, I'll create some before/after recordings as well once the cable breaks in and post them out here.
 
Here are a couple of pics of the AO cable in my deck as fitted by David at the SO in York.

DSC_2162.jpg


DSC_2176.jpg
 
Andrew,

Thanks for the pictures. I'd like to try to get a twist in the my setup with the AO cable somewhere around the DIN plug so that the cable becomes vertical when it gets to the p-clip. This is how my stock cable is setup. I think it will then be easier to bend it back so that it exits the plinth cleanly. It's hard to tell from the picture but it looks like there's only one nut where the p-clip attaches to the bolt and there's a washer between the p-clip and the nut.

Regards,
John
 
Ok Flapopely, it was after all worthwhile posting your pic’ because if you compare it with John’s his cable looks (judging from the photos) far too tight and hasn’t got as much curve in it as yours. Yours is also much closer to the plinth. So John I would give it a bit more slack when you install the Origami cable.
On initially looking at your photo John, I only meant well; my post wasn’t intended as a criticism of your (or your dealer’s) set up skills.
By the way, the Origami is a damn good cable.
Kanwar.
 
John said:
Andrew,

Thanks for the pictures. I'd like to try to get a twist in the my setup with the AO cable somewhere around the DIN plug so that the cable becomes vertical when it gets to the p-clip. This is how my stock cable is setup. I think it will then be easier to bend it back so that it exits the plinth cleanly. It's hard to tell from the picture but it looks like there's only one nut where the p-clip attaches to the bolt and there's a washer between the p-clip and the nut.

Regards,
John
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IIRC the cable is too big for the twist you mention. I think the SO did it like this to have the least impact on the suspension and that's the reason for the nut/washer arrangement on my deck too.

Andrew
 
kanwar said:
Ok Flapopely, it was after all worthwhile posting your pic’ because if you compare it with John’s his cable looks (judging from the photos) far too tight and hasn’t got as much curve in it as yours. Yours is also much closer to the plinth. So John I would give it a bit more slack when you install the Origami cable.
On initially looking at your photo John, I only meant well; my post wasn’t intended as a criticism of your (or your dealer’s) set up skills.
By the way, the Origami is a damn good cable.
Kanwar.
Click to expand...


Do I still need to pucker up?
 
I find it difficult judging cable tension from a laptop viewed image- theres no depth of field. My T cable had a simple upward kink put in it with the aid of a hair dryer- by an LP12 technician of 30 yrs standing. Good enough for me....
 
FWIU, the AO cable is only 10mm tall if you combine the two conductors. This seems to be slightly taller than the stock Linn cable which is 8mm. This should make it close enough to allow me to use the stock p-clip and set the cable up so that it goes through it vertically which is what I require with my older plinth which has the exit directly behind the bolt that holds the p-clip. In other words, an S-bend is required to get the cable out of the deck.

I'd like to see a photo of how the t-cable is handled with an older plinth. My understanding is that the t-cable is thicker and less flexible than the AO cable.
 
TheDecameron said:
I think you need a refashioned cable entry on an old lp12, mine is 2010 stock, cut for the T cable.
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The AO cable is not as bulky and stiff as the T cable so should be fashioned to work in an older plinth. The cable is also more flexible so the S turn after the p-clip should be possible. If it's not too late, I'm gonna have at least three bands added to the cable between the DIN plug and the p-clip to make dressing the cable vertically easier. This picture shows the cable exit better, it can be saved and zoomed into to get a closer look, there should be enough room if the AO cable is as big as I think it is.

hpim5879.jpg
 
kanwar said:
Ok Flapopely, it was after all worthwhile posting your pic’ because if you compare it with John’s his cable looks (judging from the photos) far too tight and hasn’t got as much curve in it as yours. Yours is also much closer to the plinth. So John I would give it a bit more slack when you install the Origami cable.
On initially looking at your photo John, I only meant well; my post wasn’t intended as a criticism of your (or your dealer’s) set up skills.
By the way, the Origami is a damn good cable.
Kanwar.
Click to expand...

I appreciate the picture and your comments as well. I've just been confirmed that four bands will be added between the DIN plug and the p-clip so I should be able to finagle it to work the way I want it. There's also a choice of blue or black so I'm going with the newer black cable. :)
 
Here's how the T-cable is to be dressed using the newer p-clip. Notice how the cable is horizontal from the DIN to the p-clip. This is not how it's suppose to be done with the older stock Linn cable. I intend on dressing the AO cable like it was an older stock Linn cable with a twist to make it vertical through the p-clip.

p10100881.jpg
 
i have done it both ways :) many times...in me life

i much prefer flats solution / ---same as the T cable pic

although both work fine

john....the more black sleeves/bands you add to the sprung cable length the more you connect the two cables...i prefer to have max 1 band in this area so the cable can move easy

you can cut of the extra bands easy

hope that helps

bw
j7
 
audioorigami said:
i have done it both ways :) many times...in me life

i much prefer flats solution

although both work fine

john....the more black sleeves/bands you add to the sprung cable length the more you connect the two cables...i prefer to have max 1 band in this area so the cable can move easy

you can cut of the extra bands easy

hope that helps

bw
j7
Click to expand...

The advantage Andrew had was the newer plinth like the one pictured above. Much easier to exit the cable from the plinth from a horizontal position. It's a bit trickier with the older plinth which requires a sharp bend to the cable after the p-clip.

I'll have a better idea of what to do when I get the AO cable in my hands. Like you said the bands can be removed if they're not necessary. I was thinking they might make it easier to get the cable vertical.

What is the effect of having the two cables touching for that length within the tt? I found an improvement separating the stock cables once outside of the plinth. Having them separated within would seem to make it more difficult to dress the wires though.
 
Here's a better look at how the cable is dressed. Please add to this thread if you have a variation that works for you.

hpim5879.jpg
 
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