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LinnT-cable Vrs AO cable

have you tried splitting your armcable?

it makes quite a difference!

We were probably one of the first ones to do this when I was a dealer back in the mid 80's but did it after exiting the deck. Never tried it within. Is this significant within the deck as well? Johnnie hinted that it might not be a good idea banding the cable together within the deck but thought it would be easier to dress the cable if it was together.
 
thats you cable ready john

you can easy move the bands about on the cable to get max bounce out of the deck

hope you love it!!
bw
j7
 
For those of you want who may be interested in professional advise concerning LP12 set up, see: www.sondek-turntable.com/Linn, Jimmy Hughs explains the variability with arm cables and that there is no “correct” way to dress it. Jimmy, like Derek, has been in the game for over 30 years, and I do it like they showed me, first hand. If you think it’s “bollocks”. Fair enough. But for someone who incorrectly assumes that the LP12 has to be completely stripped down in order to change the subchassis, then, that makes 2of us that don’t know what we’re talking about.
XX Kanwar

Here's some relative quotes I've pulled from that link that I would like to give consideration to:

The arm cable can influence the suspension too, and with some arms (notably the arms with thick cable) careful dressing is the only answer. Linn suggest that the suspension is set up initially with the arm cable detached. Sometimes, unknowingly, you can have a situation where the suspension spring is pulling over in one direction while the arm cable is tugging at the opposite angle. The two cancel out, and the arm board appears to centre-up nicely in the cut out. But the forces at work ensure the deck doesn’t bounce properly, because the suspension is effectively under tension. In situations where the arm cable is very heavy, it’s stiffness is such that it must be considered as a part of the suspension.

I’ve always found it intriguing that the Linn Sondek turntable alone should be so hypersensitive when it comes to cable dressing and clamping. With other suspended subchassis turntables the arm cable is still capable of influencing performance, but largely by pulling the suspension over or by fouling the plinth. With the LP12 the arm cable not only need be dressed so that it exerts the minimum influence on the position of the subchassis, it also needs to be clamped tightly before it exits.

It’s almost as if there needs to be a degree of physical contact between the base of the arm and the P-clip point. An Ittok/Basik cable is probably about right in terms of thickness and flexibility, being neither too stiff nor too compliant. But stiffer cables can be dressed without degradation given practice and experience. And truly, when you master this aspect the consistency between the sound of one linn sondek and the next will improve dramatically.

Dressing an arm cable is one of those things that can be easily demonstrated, but which fails to come across well when described in words. Basically, I favour putting a ‘dog’s leg’ bend in most cables to give a hinge point. This imparts a suitable degree of compliance without destroying the necessary tension between the arm base and its mechanical ‘grounding’ point, the P-clip bolt. A Linn cable is pretty easy to do in this way, although care always needs to be taken to prevent the cable contacting the base of the sondek turntable — which is particularly prone to happen with Ittoks.

For very thick arm cables I prefer to keep the cores separate, so that for the foot or so between the arm base and P-clip the cables are apart. Again I favour a dog’s leg bend at a point approximately 2 inches from the arm base, but before incorporating this get all cables running in a sympathetic manner.

The bold part is significant particularly the hinge action and something I may experiment with my existing cable.
 
I find it difficult judging cable tension from a laptop viewed image- theres no depth of field. My T cable had a simple upward kink put in it with the aid of a hair dryer- by an LP12 technician of 30 yrs standing. Good enough for me....

I wonder if that's not the hinge referred to in the above link.
 
Hey folks,

Have taken some suggestions on board and have been tweaking with the dressing of the arm only! Did not have to touch the grommets or springs because the deck is setup nicely and bouncing just fine when the arm cable is unplugged.

With the S curve put into the arm cable the suspension appears to be bouncing up and down just as well or better than before. It also appears to be moving with more freedom when I grab the spindle and cause the suspension to move from side to side. So the end result appears to be greater freedom of movement of the suspension especially in the direction of where the tonearm cable plugs into the DIN.

I made some before recordings and tomorrow I'll make some after recordings. If the dressing of the arm cable makes much difference, I'll post a recording of the two for your consumption.

BEFORE
hpim5879.jpg


AFTER
hpim5899.jpg


REVISED
hpim5900.jpg
 
Hi John I have the S shape going in the opposite direction to the way you’ve done it; you’re way probably also works if you say it bounces and swings freely. You’ve turned the P-clip so the cable goes up. What I mean is that the P-clip is straight, the arm cable comes out the conventional way: close to the plinth, then gently going up and curving the opposite way to finish at the arm pillar. I’m gonna get this sussed out with the pics at the weekend and get them to you.
Cheers, Kanwar.
 
Hi John I have the S shape going in the opposite direction to the way you’ve done it; you’re way probably also works if you say it bounces and swings freely. You’ve turned the P-clip so the cable goes up. What I mean is that the P-clip is straight, the arm cable comes out the conventional way: close to the plinth, then gently going up and curving the opposite way to finish at the arm pillar. I’m gonna get this sussed out with the pics at the weekend and get them to you.
Cheers, Kanwar.

Thanks for the feedback, I'll change the direction so that it goes the other way and also straighten out the p-clip. I'll post a new picture showing the new position.

Andrew - I like to wait a day and let my Lingo fire back up before I make the after recording but I did listen to a couple songs that I recorded and they sounded pretty good.
 
That’s considerably better than the way you had it in the beginning. Somebody said earlier (too lazy to search and quote the man) that you’ve got to have a pull on the arm cable to stop it from buckling against the drive belt. I’m afraid I don’t agree because if you unplugged the arm cable it would bounce differently. What I’ve been saying from the very beginning is that you should give it some slack. I look forward to John’s evaluations, so that my critics might possibly cut me some slack. But I’m not holding my breath.
K.
 
Whatever Kanwar, but do try to know what you are talking about - S shaped cable dressing :rolleyes:. It's hardly a 'tip' if it's a load of bollocks.

What a feckin' classic! A full scale bitch fight over "cable dressing". Only on PFM...... Gotta laugh!
 
Here's a T-cable with an older plinth, a bit different from how it was dressed with the more recent plinth. Notice how the cable goes vertical so that it can exit A very straight cable with no bend at all.

p10205051.jpg




p10100881.jpg
 
John I’ve just removed the Tramp to take some pic’s for you and seen that I’ve dressed my Origami cable very similar to your “revised” version, but with slightly more cable coming out of the p-clip (will include a pic, as promised); it was with the original Linn cable I had that slight S bend. Very coincidently, the DHL man just delivered a long awaited Jico stylus from Japan, at least I hope it’ is, I haven’t opened the packet yet. So I’m gonna stick that on at the same time. Til soon, mate. K.
 
Look forward to the pic. So perhaps it more resembles Andrews deck that was setup by Sound Organisation, though I will need to go vertical with the cable as with the T-cable/older plinth pic.

DSC_2162.jpg
 


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