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Innuos nextgen statement and synergistic research fuses

Current flows into the equipment from the wall. Your hifi does not power the national grid
Alternating current (AC) is an electric current which periodically reverses direction and changes its magnitude continuously with time in contrast to direct current (DC), which flows only in one direction. Alternating current is the form in which electric power is delivered to businesses and residences, and it is the form of electrical energy that consumers typically use when they plug kitchen appliances, televisions, fans and electric lamps into a wall socket. A common source of DC power is a battery cell in a flashlight.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alternating_current

How come that fuse is directional?
 
Alternating current (AC) is an electric current which periodically reverses direction and changes its magnitude continuously with time in contrast to direct current (DC), which flows only in one direction. Alternating current is the form in which electric power is delivered to businesses and residences, and it is the form of electrical energy that consumers typically use when they plug kitchen appliances, televisions, fans and electric lamps into a wall socket. A common source of DC power is a battery cell in a flashlight.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alternating_current

How come that fuse is directional?
This is completely off topic, go and start your own fuses thread. I am not forcing my view on anyone, please extend the same courtesy. The upshot of this thread is I should have used a 3.15A fuse instead of the 2A. Whether they work to improve SQ, how they work, why are they directional, etc, start your own thread. I will not be joining you
 
This is completely off topic, go and start your own fuses thread. I am not forcing my view on anyone, please extend the same courtesy. The upshot of this thread is I should have used a 3.15A fuse instead of the 2A. Whether they work to improve SQ, how they work, why are they directional, etc, start your own thread. I will not be joining you

I'd just like to say that the speed of fast blow fuses is not constant - each manufacturer should be able to supply you with a time vs current curve which basically shows how long the fuse can take an over-current of it's rating before blowing, and this will change with how much over the current is. The fuse rating is designed to cover expected operating behaviour, so a 2A fuse in the UK is basically to cover a unit which could draw 500w in operation, possibly continuously.

I say this as it might be better to use their 2A slow blow fuse rather than a higher rating fast blow - you might get advice from the equipment manufacturer as to what they would recommend if you can supply them with fuse time vs current curves for a range of fuses around the current level they specify. It's also possible that the equipment manufacturer is fine with a 3A fuse, or whatever you suggest. It'll all come down to the circuit topology and what they have tested. Given that those streamers appear to be a PC in a box, i'd imagine the power draw will be in the low 10s of watts most of the time, with I would guess large power supply capacitors taking an inrush current which is what was tripping the fuse.

Of course tripping the fuse like this might indicate a problem an equipment failure, say, the inrush current thermistor, so it might be telling you something that should be fixed rather than just 'oh, I need a bigger fuse', so again, do check with the manufacturer...
 
I'd just like to say that the speed of fast blow fuses is not constant - each manufacturer should be able to supply you with a time vs current curve which basically shows how long the fuse can take an over-current of it's rating before blowing, and this will change with how much over the current is. The fuse rating is designed to cover expected operating behaviour, so a 2A fuse in the UK is basically to cover a unit which could draw 500w in operation, possibly continuously.

I say this as it might be better to use their 2A slow blow fuse rather than a higher rating fast blow - you might get advice from the equipment manufacturer as to what they would recommend if you can supply them with fuse time vs current curves for a range of fuses around the current level they specify. It's also possible that the equipment manufacturer is fine with a 3A fuse, or whatever you suggest. It'll all come down to the circuit topology and what they have tested. Given that those streamers appear to be a PC in a box, i'd imagine the power draw will be in the low 10s of watts most of the time, with I would guess large power supply capacitors taking an inrush current which is what was tripping the fuse.

Of course tripping the fuse like this might indicate a problem an equipment failure, say, the inrush current thermistor, so it might be telling you something that should be fixed rather than just 'oh, I need a bigger fuse', so again, do check with the manufacturer...
Hi, thx for the sane response, a little in short supply round here. Yes the problem is that I hadnt read the manufactures recommendation to up the rating slightly presumably due to exactly this issue, the current/time curve. Live and learn ....
 
We’re not sane…:)

One definition of stupidity might be where you approach collective unknown people amongst whom you assume there will be the relevant experience with a question based on a hypothesis which you discover others do not share and, instead of wondering to yourself “why do the majority of people not share this view?” you insult and alienate those people thus increasing the likelihood that in future they will take neither you nor your questions especially seriously.
 
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This is completely off topic, go and start your own fuses thread. I am not forcing my view on anyone, please extend the same courtesy. The upshot of this thread is I should have used a 3.15A fuse instead of the 2A. Whether they work to improve SQ, how they work, why are they directional, etc, start your own thread. I will not be joining you
My apologies. I'm not enforcing my view either, just correcting something you say that is untrue about AC.

On a wider point of replacing a 2A fuse with another 2A fuse and the latter blowing, kinda indicates that the second fuse is incorrectly labeled,.and/or poorly spec'd. Especially true if it happened twice.

Can you get your money back? Not fit for purpose and all that?
 
I quoted the relevant/pertinent bit in that reply which was "The SR shills are relentless."

Maybe I misunderstood what you were saying but it came across to me as, "fuses make no difference and anyone who says otherwise is a shill/fraud"

With that thought in mind, I replied that I thought it was sad that people couldnt hear the difference, because there is a difference.

Hope that clarifies

P.S. Unless of course you were referring to the tagline part. Well, under your name it says "self-righteous, but never right" Which made me smile :)

No. What I was saying was that the content and style of your post resembles that of other SR posts in other forums. Additionally, the fact that you're concerned about hits, suggests you're promoting something, consistent with shilling. Your subsequent trolling is also consistent with SR posts in other forums. In other words, if it walks like a duck and quacks like a duck...
 
No. What I was saying was that the content and style of your post resembles that of other SR posts in other forums. Additionally, the fact that you're concerned about hits, suggests you're promoting something, consistent with shilling. Your subsequent trolling is also consistent with SR posts in other forums. In other words, if it walks like a duck and quacks like a duck...
Your tag dude, in your own words....
 
My apologies. I'm not enforcing my view either, just correcting something you say that is untrue about AC.

On a wider point of replacing a 2A fuse with another 2A fuse and the latter blowing, kinda indicates that the second fuse is incorrectly labeled,.and/or poorly spec'd. Especially true if it happened twice.

Can you get your money back? Not fit for purpose and all that?
OK thx for that. No, as caesare pointed out above, it will be due to the way the current rushes in and whats the definition of "slow" blow. Clearly the std fuse is "slower" than the SR one. And the manufacturer recommending a slightly higher current fuse all means I messed up and have to live with it... :(
 
Current flows into the equipment from the wall. Your hifi does not power the national grid

You don’t know how AC works, do you?

Don’t worry, it’s nothing to be ashamed of - many people don’t. You just might want to do a morsel of research before posting on a forum where one or two people are actual engineers and do know how AC works!
 


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