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idiots guide to amp building

say it as it is said:
do you need this and soft start module as well?
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Yes, two different issues. Soft start is to limit current inrush after power-on. Speaker protection in case the amp goes DC.

Many people conflate the two, because without SSM there's an audible thump at power on. The SSM prevents that thump, so people mistakenly think it's doing general speaker protection.
 
Arkless Electronics said:
Ah that's more like it. About £70 per channel it appears though!
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Yup, they're pricey. I've got four of his earlier units myself. (The newer ones handle more powerful amps.)

I'm building an amp for a friend, which is currently configured for the UPC-1237 modules. I think I'm going to switch over to use these modules instead, as he lives far away, and I don't want him to have troubles.
 
Thanks for all the replies and advice everyone. It's very much appreciated. Food for thought and some.
 
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Arkless Electronics said:
I have no problems with the Vellemans speaker terminals and vastly prefer them to the one's on the module you linked to. I wouldn't touch that with a bargepole TBH! A decent quality relay is more than that entire thing...
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The vellaman kit is the cheap UK equivalent in price terms to these UPC1237 and I have had 2 of their cheap relays burn out on me
My advice is buy your own parts and relays for either kit from a reliable source.
How you would prefer a circuit board pin and a fine PCB track to a to a proper binding post directly connected to the relay for speaker cable is beyond me but there you go:rolleyes:

Alan
 
337alant said:
The vellaman kit is the cheap UK equivalent in price terms to these UPC1237 and I have had 2 of their cheap relays burn out on me
My advice is buy your own parts and relays for either kit from a reliable source.
How you would prefer a circuit board pin and a fine PCB track to a to a proper binding post directly connected to the relay for speaker cable is beyond me but there you go:rolleyes:

Alan
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Oh yeah the Vellemans crap as well. Hence my saying up thread that to get a really good protection system you have to make it yourself.... thought I was pretty clear there:rolleyes:

I'll take a simple soldered connection over anything involving screws, that come loose, and probably dodgely crimped spade terminals to boot.
 
I'll take a simple soldered connection over anything involving screws, that come loose, and probably dodgely crimped spade terminals to boot.
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I would also prefer a good soldered connection and with the UPC1237 boards you can leave out the binding post and get a really good soldered connection to the PCB that has nice heavy tracks, but speaker cable to the Velleman pins na bollox:D
Alan
 
337alant said:
I would also prefer a good soldered connection and with the UPC1237 boards you can leave out the binding post and get a really good soldered connection to the PCB that has nice heavy tracks, but speaker cable to the Velleman pins na bollox:D
Alan
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Changed your mind about the screws then? You could solder to the bottom of the relay pins on the velleman also if you so choose. Not that a couple of cm of track is any real issue... unlike screw terminals loosening over time:rolleyes:
 
Changed your mind about the screws then?
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No I just said I would prefer it but the binding post in this application is still way better than a pcb pin IMHO

You could solder to the bottom of the relay pins on the velleman
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Changed your mind about those PCB pins and skinny PCB track have you ?.:D
 
337alant said:
No I just said I would prefer it but the binding post in this application is still way better than a pcb pin IMHO


Changed your mind about those PCB pins and skinny PCB track have you ?.:D
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No. You wanted to solder directly to relay and I pointed out that you can also do this with Velleman. If it had been the much inferior Naim product it would have had a 0.22R resistor in line anyhow!:)
 
Arkless Electronics said:
No. You wanted to solder directly to relay and I pointed out that you can also do this with Velleman. If it had been the much inferior Naim product it would have had a 0.22R resistor in line anyhow!:)
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No I didn,t want to solder directly to the relay, read what I wrote?.
leave out the binding post and get a really good soldered connection to the PCB that has nice heavy tracks
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When you remove the binding post there is a hole in the PCB with heavy duty double sided copper tracks
UPC1237 Speaker Protection Board Directly Mounted Hifi Amplifier DIY AC1 SQi4 | eBay
 
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Dissipante 4U Enclosure arrived from modushop, now I've got to build it... which for me may be more of a challenge than the electronics bodge :)

Feet on top left of inner base plate are antivbration, broke one already investigating it :oops: One day I'll work out where they bolt into lol.

As this thread is entitled such... build guide is (with missing pictures):
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/parts/245959-illustrated-guide-4u-deluxe-chassis.html

Rest is kind of covered here (all be it on a smaller scale and not with NCC220s in mind) in the Amp Camp Amp build as recommended by 6L6 in 'another forum' :p:
https://guides.diyaudio.com/Guide/Amp+Camp+Amp+V1.6+Build+Guide/5

This is what fell out of the box... CD is just for scale.

It looks like the quality of the case has improved since the old guides as the self tappers in the panels have been replaced by countersunk allen key bolts.

Dissapante 4U by muchtoofast, on Flickr
 
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lo I just dismantled my case to measure up for replacing the base panel with 4mm aluminium, was surprised how flimsy it was tbh. So asides from cooling will strengthen it a fair bit
 
say it as it is said:
lo I just dismantled my case to measure up for replacing the base panel with 4mm aluminium, was surprised how flimsy it was tbh. So asides from cooling will strengthen it a fair bit
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I guess theres strength in the angles in which things are screwed together, a good chunk of aluminium sounds like a great start for a base plate.... rest is mostly a cover :)
 
yes the flanges do add strength but the chunky 10mm face plate could do with a base or sides to match. My first time using a diy case been spoiled by Naim and even my Rotel am has a much heavier base plate than cover.
 
Yes, Naim are built like tanks, but then there's the other end of the spectrum, like NVA for example... Acrylic plastic thingys. Took me a bit of adjustment to get my head around also as I came from Naim.

...However...I have built a premp recently in an ASDA lunch box
 
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