idiots guide to amp building

[muchtoofast]

52V is fine with ncc200 and I can't see the ncc220 being any different.

My CW transformers don't hum but maybe you have more dc on the mains than me.

Many thanks for the info! I'm relieved to know that 52V is OK

 

[S-Man]

1.5mm2 wire for my builds, unless there is a specific need for very low resistance (I used 4mm2 for a power ground in my NCC300S)
Gave up trying to build welders many years ago. Too much hassle building with obese wires.

 

[Marra]

I ran my Voyagers with +- 53.5v; likewise the NCC300's.

 

[muchtoofast]

I ran my Voyagers with +- 53.5v; likewise the NCC300's.

Many thanks for the further confirmation

 

[337alant]

I ran my Voyagers with +- 53.5v; likewise the NCC300's.

Me too
Alan

 

[muchtoofast]

Thank you all so very much for your help. It works!

Lots of tidying up to do and mains inlet needs fitting, but no smoke or surprises.

2021-04-30_09-40-16 by muchtoofast, on Flickr

 

[say it as it is]

IMG_20210515_153905529[1]

any obvious issues with this layout before I start drilling the case.

only concern was the placement of the transformer as the case is tight, initially I was going to offset it it to the left and stack the 2 hackercap bards next to each other but thought central looked a bit neater trying to keep cable runs from the NCC200 as short as possible

thoughts or suggestions welcome

I have replaced the base plate in the case with 4mm aluminium and have added much larger aluminium plates to the NCC200s as heatsinks

 

[S-Man]

Try to keep the transformers away from the input stages.

I would put the toroid at the front right, the cap6s in the middle and the amp boards at the LHS, with the inputs facing left

Sort of like this:

Avondale NCC300 amp project ..

 

[say it as it is]

ok thanks I was just trying to replicate the layout in my 260z but will see if it all fits the way you suggest

 

[say it as it is]

IMG_20210515_192808651[1]

does this look any better?

lack of space the issue here trying to squeeze it in the best way possible

 

[Mike Hanson]

IMG_20210515_153905529[1]

any obvious issues with this layout before I start drilling the case.

only concern was the placement of the transformer as the case is tight, initially I was going to offset it it to the left and stack the 2 hackercap bards next to each other but thought central looked a bit neater trying to keep cable runs from the NCC200 as short as possible

thoughts or suggestions welcome

I have replaced the base plate in the case with 4mm aluminium and have added much larger aluminium plates to the NCC200s as heatsinks

Try this:

• Move the transformer to the front right.
• Move the CAP boards to the bottom left, with their inputs at the front.
• Rotate the NCC200's 90deg, so that their input stages are towards the back.

 

[say it as it is]

IMG_20210515_195224393[1]

ok really tight squeeze but this might just work does that look better?

 

[Mike Hanson]

IMG_20210515_195224393[1]

ok really tight squeeze but this might just work does that look better?

That's definitely the way I would go.

 

[say it as it is]

Ok cheers for the advice

 

[muchtoofast]

IMG_20210515_195224393[1]

ok really tight squeeze but this might just work does that look better?

Also, to me, this looks the best option. Annoying as it sounds, would minicap 6 boards may give more wriggle room? Probably not much in it as the diodes are stuck out the end on the minicap. Minicap is 13 x 6.5cm approx.

 

[say it as it is]

Hi I have minicap6 was keeping them for monos as space going to be tight there as well. Might swap over see if it helps. Was just trying to use the hackercap as new and shiny lol

 

[muchtoofast]

Hi I have minicap6 was keeping them for monos as space going to be tight there as well. Might swap over see if it helps. Was just trying to use the hackercap as new and shiny lol

Yeah, fully understood about keeping all the new stuff together

 

[337alant]

you don't need a soft start but I would recommend speaker protection
Also where is the output transistor heat sink?, is that a thick alloy base plate?
Alan

 

[Mike Hanson]

where is the output transistor heat sink?, is that a thick alloy base plate?

I'm doing the same thing with my amps using the Modushop Pesante cases. I replaced the base plates with 3mm aluminum, and I've had no problem with NCC200 boards. Similarly, my mono Voyagers have both QUDOS and and VBE boards, also using an aluminum sheet (albeit with the front and back part of that sheet, similar to Naim's old sleds). I've had no problems with overheating in any of these cases.

 

[say it as it is]

the base has been replaced with 4mm aluminium sheet.

the heat sinks for the ncc200 are oversized with 10 mm plate under u-channel,

going by the case for the 260z it should be fine the 260z doesn't even get warm