Exhaustive review of the SSP12 inner platter for LP12

[bergui45]

Hello matfff,
I cannot see a screw on the tachometer to increase sensitivity? maybe it's an upgraded tachometer...?
Steve1000 had apparently the same issue and fixed it while using spacers to raise the tachometer closer to the stripes under the outer platter...
But Edmund says the opposite: removing the brass holder and use double sided tape to lower the tachometer from the stripes...
This is very confusing and i'm a little angry having to betatesting my Mober DC PSU... I should have stayed with my Greenstreet Geddon because it worked terrific! But no 45 RPM and needed the adaptator on the pulley... Worse FEDEX Economy charged me 82 euros upon delivery...

 

[matfff]

Yes, FedEx are taking the p*ss a bit there.....
I’m a bit out of my depth here in trying to help, I’m a farmer now and an Eng by training, so hammers, spanners and cow sh*t Is about your lot!
However, Edmund has always been very fair with me, I’m sure that if you work through the issues with him, you will reach resolution. It’s worth it!

 

[bigfish]

Hello Ber, you send me numerous messages a day, I am not able to figure out your problem, but you make a not of conclusions yourself, do you want to get the problem resolved or only keep yelling? That problem is able to be resolved or not depends on you. All my Mober shipped out are working, most issues are similar, but customer are little different this time. All LP12 set up are little difference, the issues can be case by case. You tell me when you press the speed button, the LCD screen did not switch to rpm=33,3 , it is other problem, please calm down and follow my advise step by step, the Mober is working, because your screen display the normal start up screen, I need to know the next, reply to my emails to you. The successful rate of Mober installation for any person is 100 % for last 4 and half years. Edmund

 

[bigfish]

But Edmund says the opposite: removing the brass holder and use double sided tape to lower the tachometer from the stripes...

Ber, I told you to use double side tape because you send me a photo with tachometer on the Tiger Paw Khan top plate, it is different, all other top plate do not need that double side tape. Edmund

 

[bigfish]

There is a misunderstanding and wide spreaded, you do not need unnecessary ground.



The ground to the chassis and top plate because in the Valhalla era, a hazardous 380 V AC present inside the turntable and too close to the metal cross brace.



You need the ground for protection purpose. Same as the bottom cover.



After you upgrade to DC motor, only 5V DC present, it is very safe.



Unnecessary ground cause hum.



Best regards,



Edmund

100 % true, When you use Mober DC motor, only 5V DC present inside your LP12, you do not need the ground with all metal parts for protection of voltage leakage. My Mober LP12 does not have any ground to the chassis, top plate...etc. When I turn my pre amp phono to 80/100, no hum at all, My phono is a valve amplifier, it is the same as my second Mober LP12. Several times I received complaints about hum after installed my Mose/Hercules, when they send me photo of their ground, hum issues resolved by cutting the unnecessary ground. I believe all phono, phono cable are not standardized, all has little difference, so it is vary with case by case. Technically, you only need the phono cable grounded with the phono. That is it. The bottom cover too, remove the bottom cover you get more open sound. Thanks for sharing. Edmund

 

[rkay5]

I'm using an SSP12 inner platter with the Karousel & Mober DC and lovin' it. Was able to get the Karousel without the Kit just the bearing. Now waiting on a Roksan Sara tonearm to replace a Nima.

 

[sonddek]

I've photographed it below (that's the SSP12 on the left; my Cirkus Linn inner platter is on the right).

Surprised that nobody has commented on the ploughed field of a finish on the shaft on the left. Look at the reflections. The camera doesn't lie. Whereas the shaft on the right is as slippery as an eel. Am I right in saying that both of these shafts are supposed to rotate quietly in a tight plastic sheath? Hmm.

Then there's the issue of the footprint. Any eccentricity in the shaft's lowest (contact) point will produce a nasty scrubbing effect as the shaft's contact point skids around the sleeve's true rotational centre. Ensuring that the contact point is as close as possible to that rotational centre requires very high precision engineering. The good news is that wear will eventually fix any eccentricity over time because the true rotational centre suffers less friction and thus wears less. Wear will self-centre the bearing over a long period, possibly decades. So the question is, does it wear quickly enough to correct manufactured eccentricity within your lifetime? The advantage of a good ball bearing may not show. How accurately is that ball positioned?

 

[matfff]

Surprised that nobody has commented on the ploughed field of a finish on the shaft on the left. Look at the reflections. The camera doesn't lie. Whereas the shaft on the right is as slippery as an eel. Am I right in saying that both of these shafts are supposed to rotate quietly in a tight plastic sheath? Hmm.

Then there's the issue of the footprint. Any eccentricity in the shaft's lowest (contact) point will produce a nasty scrubbing effect as the shaft's contact point skids around the sleeve's true rotational centre. Ensuring that the contact point is as close as possible to that rotational centre requires very high precision engineering. The good news is that wear will eventually fix any eccentricity over time because the true rotational centre suffers less friction and thus wears less. Wear will self-centre the bearing over a long period, possibly decades. So the question is, does it wear quickly enough to correct manufactured eccentricity within your lifetime? The advantage of a good ball bearing may not show. How accurately is that ball positioned?

Hi, I’ve examined all three (Mober, Cirkus, Karousel, I think the C and K are identical). All of Edmunds parts are exceptionally well engineered. You really can’t tell anything from this photograph I’m afraid. Having said that, I chose to use the stock Linn sub platter in my K. The uplift in SQ was so dramatic I decided to leave well alone!

 

[sonddek]

You really can’t tell anything from this photograph I’m afraid.

Look at the level of polish in the reflections. The right hand spindle looks adequately polished. The reflections off the surface of the left hand spindle show that it is not polished to anything like the smoothness of the other. Anybody can see this.

 

[matfff]

Look at the level of polish in the reflections. The right hand spindle looks adequately polished. The reflections off the surface of the left hand spindle show that it is not polished to anything like the smoothness of the other. Anybody can see this.

Angles Dougal, angles.......

 

[hifiaf]

Indeed, angles. I have both in front of me and the polish is identical.

The SSP12 remains the best value-for-money upgrade I've tried on my LP12, though I wonder how much its effect depended on the particular setup I was using at that time (it's now different in pretty much every respect). Based on @matfff's review, I've also got a Karousel coming to me and will be trying it with the Karousel subplatter as well as the SSP12 (one of the easiest LP12 upgrades to swap out and test!). So I'll be able to revisit my impressions then.

I'm also REALLY looking forward to @rkay5's take on the Sara tonearm. I've never seen a single review of it (though of course I've seen the reviews of the Audio Origami Uniarm it's based on) but have been curious about it for some time...

 

[hifiaf]

When i do a sharp press on the 33.3 BTN the screen is moving fast from 33.3 to 0 so i cannot select 33.3...
This is driving me completly mad!

That button needs a light touch. If you press too hard, it "double presses" and cycles quickly 0-33.3-0. A light touch should get it to "stick" at 33.3 and then get it up to speed. But it sounds like the button isn't the only issue you're having?

I've never had any speed stability issues with my Mober DC unit. It gets up to speed quickly and holds it perfectly.

I've had my tachometer mounted in various ways on my Khan but have settled on the following with Blu Tack (well, the stuff I use is a kind of clay colour!) It's not pretty but it works Double-sided tape doesn't work because the bottom of the tachometer isn't flat. @bergui45 if you're still having issues I'd suggest mounting the tachometer exactly like this (note the position relative to the Khan's mounting points for Linn tachometers) and seeing if that helps.

 

[sq225917]

Its a centre drilled ball bearing Sondek, there is no eccentricity, the drill goes in as the bearing shaft spins in a lathe. Its as concentric as the chuck is, which is exactly the same for linn shaft.

The Mober shaft isn't as finely polished. It won't make a damn bit of difference though other than holding oil slightly better.

 

[sq225917]

I only had issues with my mober tacho when it was too low under the platter, easily done on my Kuzma/Lp12 hybrid.

 

[matfff]

That button needs a light touch. If you press too hard, it "double presses" and cycles quickly 0-33.3-0. A light touch should get it to "stick" at 33.3 and then get it up to speed. But it sounds like the button isn't the only issue you're having?

I've never had any speed stability issues with my Mober DC unit. It gets up to speed quickly and holds it perfectly.

I've had my tachometer mounted in various ways on my Khan but have settled on the following with Blu Tack (well, the stuff I use is a kind of clay colour!) It's not pretty but it works Double-sided tape doesn't work because the bottom of the tachometer isn't flat. @bergui45 if you're still having issues I'd suggest mounting the tachometer exactly like this (note the position relative to the Khan's mounting points for Linn tachometers) and seeing if that helps.

Yes, blu/ black tac is prob the best option if having height difficulties, infinitely variable and sound deadening.

 

[bergui45]

I could finally solve the issue while opening the Mober and fiddling with VR51 at the rear right side of the motherboard:
turning counterclockwise until the Red Led becomes blinking!
I reported to Edmund that my unit may be defective since this Red Led was always OFF... Because of that, i never could get the 33.3 RPM...
But he didn't answer accordingly, only saying that 100% of his Mober were ALL OK...
;-((
But another customer had exaxctly the same issue with an improper too Slow Speed for 33.3 RPM... Edmund replied that it may be the outer platter was too high and the customer used some washers to rise the tachometer closer to the stripes under the outer platter...
I tried this but it didn't work...
OK i could have the correct 33.3 RPM speed after fiddling with VR51, but twice on each LP's side i had speed swings: quickly the speed was decreasing and quickly comes back to normal speed...!?
UNACCEPTABLE!
OK when installing my Karousel Kit, i was a bit lazy and didn't replace the springs received with my Greenstreet aluminum sub chassis, a couple of years before...
So i removed the used springs and finally put the brand new springs and YES since that everything's OK: SPEED is reliable and no more any speed swings!
Finally I'm HAPPY!
I hope fiddling with VR51 will be helpful for others should they suffer the same SLOW speed issue...

 

[bergui45]

Ber, I told you to use double side tape because you send me a photo with tachometer on the Tiger Paw Khan top plate, it is different, all other top plate do not need that double side tape. Edmund

I understand the misunderstanding! The picture i sent you was from hifiaf with the arrow showing where he made some filing...
I never had a Khan top plate, but only a TPTranquility with my previous Cirkus... I used this picture because of the arrow showing where i had to shave out some brass to prevent the motor pulley to have contact with the Tachometer brass part...
My apologizes to Bigfish Edmund for getting upset with the issues:
OK i had to suffer and struggle with this mess from last thursday until yesterday sunday to FIX it...
It was FAR too long to finally get things OK and Speed ROCKSTABLE as previously with my Greenstreet Geddon...
What is important:
Finally i'm HAPPY with my Mober and i will remove also my bottom aluminum DIY Trampoline bottom baseboard since bigfish said i will retrieve more OPEN SOUND!

 

[bergui45]

That button needs a light touch.
If you press too hard, it "double presses" and cycles quickly 0-33.3-0. A light touch should get it to "stick" at 33.3 and then get it up to speed. But it sounds like the button isn't the only issue you're having?...

Thank you for this very important detail!
When i was first trying to get the speed at 33.3 but with the rear red led OFF, all i could get was Mober speed = 0!
So YES i was pressing too hard and YES nothing happpened, and YES i wrongly thought i've got a defective item...
Bigfish should have immediately tell me to fiddle on VR51 to check wether or not i could get the red Led blinking again!
I stayed five days in the dark with an ureliable unit and this drove me mad more and more because i felt misunderstood...

 

[bergui45]

Finally i received yesterday the new tachometer...
Fedex should have delivered it on last monday but i had to wait until friday...
;-((
Now the Mober DC with my bottomless LP12 works accurately and with perfect speed stability!

 

[bergui45]

I still have speed issues:
;-((
Suddenly the speed 33.3 drops a little and then come back to normal: this happens while the front screen is black aka meaning the speed is accurately stable at 33.3?
Edmund says that my Greenstreet sub-chassis (that performed flawlessly with the Greenstreet Geddon) is too heavy?
I have already received a new tachometer. It should have fix the mess... But holy sh... the sh... still hits the fan!
Has anybody else a Greenstreet sub-chassis performing well with the Mober DC PSU?
Thank you in advance for an accurate help!