No, not just yet. I can, however, give you the dimensions of the cabinet as a starter. It's 305mm tall, 190mm wide and 255mm deep. I'll ask Stevea nicely if he would use his CAD software to draw the plans.Have you any detailed plans?
Mat, it's all in the crossover. The box size remains constant. I normally design for free space (but in room) placement, which normally requires the mid and treble to be attenuated by around 3-5dB relative to the bass compared to a boundary design. We can play around with the baffle-step adjustment when the time comes to simulate the XO.James, When you said you could design the speaker for free space or for up against a wall. Is this done by the size of the box or the crossover? . . . . . Mine would have to go no more than 150mm off the back wall.
That is partially correct. However, as they are glued flush to the rebated edge of the hardwood body (and therefore the baffle will be bolted tightly against the main chassis, so to speak) I don't think it would make a great deal of difference whether you used 18mm square marine ply or walnut.Did you use plywood for the fillets because you had run out of walnut?
The guy behind the sales counter told me that the other hardwoods were selling around £20 per cubic meter.
That's very observant of you, Quincy. I did use #20 biscuits but posed the photos with #0s. #20s in a #20 slot still affords around 5mm of lateral movement either way.You appear to have used #0 biscuits in a #20 slot. I assume that you did this to give you some leeway when clamping.
If hardwoods are so cheap in the UK, I might have to consider shifting production of the Ergos to chez Dubois.
James
Even at NZD prices, that's a rip off. Are you sure he wasn't quoting you for 3 cubic metres instead of lineal metres?Got a rough quote today for 3mtrs of 19 x 265 BAW - £270!!
That's better. You'll need to make sure the rebates are cut 7x25mm on one edge (to accommodate the 25mm baffle) and 7x19 on the other, assuming 19mm finished thickness, for the 12mm frontal edges. The finished width of the boards should be 255mm, give or take 1mm.I've found a joiner who has some sapele and he wants £50 for it. He has his own workshop and will plane it up for me ( I may even get him to do the rebates )
He's away for a few days but when he's back i will see if he can get some cheap BAW.
He did, huh? At the prices I thought you got, I'd arrange for you to send me a container load of ABW.Mr Tibbs rang to say that you had fired up a rash of emoticons.
Agreed. That's still a very good price, about one-third of what we have to pay here.I bought 2.61 cubic feet of ABW ... but if you do the conversions it looks like you Kiwis are being ripped off.
The LS1013 with the 255mm blade (if that is the one you're considering) will cut up to about 280mm in a single pass. But the thing is so accurate that you can turn a board twice the width around (as long as the edges are perfectly parallel) and make a perfect straight cut. It'll be plenty to cut the 255mm boards required for the E-IXs.The Makita mitre saw ... what is the maximum width of board that can be offerred up to it?
Ahh yes, real Rosewood would be very nice but is unfortunately a protected species, as pointed out by PigletsDad. I was referring to either Bubinga or Indonisian Sonokelling which are both sold as a Rosewood substitute, I shall have take have a trip up to Yorkshire and visit the wood yard.Rosewood is lovely. Is it an endangered specie or one that is only marginally so? I think Bubinga falls in the later category but I can't be sure.
James
I am having problems posting pics to the thread but Mr T will upload one for me later.
Even at NZD prices, that's a rip off. Are you sure he wasn't quoting you for 3 cubic metres instead of lineal metres?
That's better. You'll need to make sure the rebates are cut 7x25mm on one edge (to accommodate the 25mm baffle) and 7x19 on the other, assuming 19mm finished thickness, for the 12mm frontal edges. The finished width of the boards should be 255mm, give or take 1mm.
James