panzerholz plinth?
- Thread starter karma67
- Start date
Helen Bach
if it ain't Baroque ...
if the plinth is made from aluminium (essentially no damping) then if/when it vibrates, those vibrations will be transferred to the Panzerholz/Permali. For the dimensions given, fundamental resonance will be about 3800Hz, anything less than that will be transferred directly. However, the damping offered by the wood will deal with the vibrations very well.
The preferred construction would be not to use aluminium in the first place. This is when choosing an appropriate material pays dividends.
The preferred construction would be not to use aluminium in the first place. This is when choosing an appropriate material pays dividends.
Chops54
pfm Member
Here's my turntable as it is atm,
https://servimg.com/view/11733869/1618
This gives an idea of its construction. Welded steel tube and filled with sand.
https://servimg.com/view/11733869/1620
https://servimg.com/view/11733869/1618
This gives an idea of its construction. Welded steel tube and filled with sand.
https://servimg.com/view/11733869/1620
karma67
pfm Member
thats the original board in the picture,my tonearm is linn mount so its a 30mm hole,i can do all the holes etc myself. i will have a bash at using a piece i have here,its 355 x 113mm,its typically 4 mm to short in one direction which would mean the corner holes would break out if drilled,i need to stick a 10mm strip on.
visually i will probably veneer over the front face with ebony veneer.
Joe
pfm Member
I would have thought that epoxy would be best.
But using a single piece of material would be better.
misterdog
Not the canine kind
I tend to use polyurethane at work though it favours material with a moisture content (humidity cured) I have used it on plastic metal and wood though never tried it with PH (the new acronym for Panzerholz, no confusion there then).
When it sticks it sticks though with PH it is mainly the resin which you are trying to bond.
I'll try a test tomorrow.
When it sticks it sticks though with PH it is mainly the resin which you are trying to bond.
I'll try a test tomorrow.
Chops54
pfm Member
It all right looking at theories where one can make something look how you want it to. I'm happy to be convinced otherwise but I need rock solid evidence so it would be nice to build a turntable with the option to do either.
Joe
pfm Member
What is 'unfinished' .... it looks all there? ....I have looked up that Clearaudio bearing on t'intenet and it is a maglev bearing. Does it levitate your platter or have you added more weight to stop it?
YNWOAN
100% Analogue
Well if a theory is so flexible you can make it fit any outcome then it is a pretty weak theory in the first place. I’m afraid I don’t think you point stands up. In any case, the concept of the ‘closed loop’ is pretty defined and certainly any deck using something as compliant as a felt mat does not adhere to it! As for ‘solid evidence’, where is the solid evidence that the closed loop works? Certainly I’ve never seen any actual evidence to support it, or even any that suggests it is truly achievable! I’ve built bearings that make full, semi-supported and fully separated contact; I’ve also made measurements and listened to the results. As a result of these investigations I’m not convinced by the validity of the closed loop (though I accept it is a nice idea).
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Chops54
pfm Member
This is an early non maglev bearing. I'm sure it's still used in their cheaper turntables. Anyway my deck started off as a simple 25mm acrylic platter on a 25mm acrylic base and I used it as a platform to experiment with different sub chassis, platter combo's etc. Now it has that big lump of ally bolted underneath it's giving the bearing a hard time. It's a good sounding table and I'm actually very happy with the way it performs but a while ago I got the urge to build something better. However the build stalled for several reasons, the bearing being the main issue. I have some other more pressing issues to deal with first but as soon I have some spare time I'll get back to it.