@James many thanks, much appreciated.I posted them sometime ago, but the links might be dead. I will update my OP with them later today when I'm home.
@James many thanks, much appreciated.I posted them sometime ago, but the links might be dead. I will update my OP with them later today when I'm home.
Which version will you be building? Free space or wall mount?It was me James, I bought them.
Going to source drivers, reread this thread for the crossover and construction tips
I'm considering the wall mount ones, but the more I read I'm erring to the free space ones. Can the wall ones be pulled out a bit, or do they have to be hard against the wall?Which version will you be building? Free space or wall mount?
That depends on your room. The wall-mount version may sound bottom-end light if not positioned hard against the wall. Free space version has around +4dB baffle-step compo, and so offers more flexibility.I'm considering the wall mount ones, but the more I read I'm erring to the free space ones. Can the wall ones be pulled out a bit, or do they have to be hard against the wall?
Threaded inserts are fine for the woofer and its cast frame. You just need to make sure they are installed straight and aligned with the bolt-holes. T-nuts offer a bit more latitude. I recommend wood-screws for the tweeter and its plastic chassis.I assume it is okay to use threaded inserts, rather that T nuts for both the drivers?
I cut M8 threads into hardwood fillets, which are sufficiently robust to secure the backs. You could use smaller bolts (M6) with threaded inserts if using composite material.And M8 threaded inserts for holding the back on?
My crossover board is mounted on the back panel. Just make sure heavy components like inductors are well secured with cable ties. There is also more space on the back panel than the bottom.What's the best way of mounting the crossover to the floor of the speaker? Though I am tempted to mount the crossover externally, but there's domestic harmony to consider
You'll be part of an elite group of PFMers with multiple pairs of Ergo loudspeakers.Looking forward to having another one of your super speakers in the house.
Reassuringly so. No one regrets buying quality.PS the drivers are quite expensive
@James That’s brilliant, many thanks indeed.I have now updated my OP with the graphs.
I've used a sandwich in the past with good results, Baltic Birch ply on the inside with MDF on the outside, small pieces are easily glued and clamped together.. MDF for the outside is easier to finish as its consistent, no grain and a pretty good finish to start with.Fantastic James, many thanks!
One quick question, would building it in MDF and then veneering it be acceptable, or does it need to be done with hardwood? Or would Oak be as easy to work?
Additionally what are the minimum tools we need/need access to to complete this job?
Thanks,
Sam
For free-space, yes. You might like to fiddle with R2011 +/- 15% to adjust to taste.
Only if veneering. MDF end-grain takes effort to fill and smooth. Personally, I'd use the better composite (Baltic Birch Ply) on the outside with mitred joints and have exposed ply as an aesthetic feature.I've used a sandwich in the past with good results, Baltic Birch ply on the inside with MDF on the outside, small pieces are easily glued and clamped together.. MDF for the outside is easier to finish as its consistent, no grain and a pretty good finish to start with.
Coincidentally, I have reinstated my E-IX after quite some time with my Troels Gravesen-modified NS-1000Ms. The baby Ergos are even better than the NS-1000Ms for coherence and engagement. I remain convinced the E-IX is my most accomplished design, mainly because they look nothing like how they sound. They might remain in-situ for a while.Picked up the cabinets from @Mosquito on Saturday and had a listen to his "offset pair. They sounded rather good.
I'm getting ready to do another push on the PFM Specials later this month. My wife asked where I would be using them, and I told her probably in my office, which is where my E-IX is now. I wonder how they'll compare.Coincidentally, I have reinstated my E-IX after quite some time with my Troels Gravesen-modified NS-1000Ms. The baby Ergos are even better than the NS-1000Ms for coherence and engagement. I remain convinced the E-IX is my most accomplished design, mainly because they look nothing like how they sound. They might remain in-situ for a while.
I would be very impressed with the IXs if they can match the Special's bass speed and depth, the Specials dynamics can really make one jump.I'm getting ready to do another push on the PFM Specials later this month. My wife asked where I would be using them, and I told her probably in my office, which is where my E-IX is now. I wonder how they'll compare.
I thought you already had the E-IX. I'm keen to hear your impressions.I would be very impressed with the IXs if they can match the Special's bass speed and depth, the Specials dynamics can really make one jump.
I shall have a look, as I've decided to mount the "free standing" xovers outside the speakers.Hobbycraft do hinged lid wooden boxes that are ideal for external xovers, about a tenner each so well worth it rather than having to make something
I have been hankering after a pair of Ergo IX for years, but never had the "excuse" to have another pair of speakers (just don't say anything about the 57s hiding under the floral cover upstairs, I can't bring myself to sell them).I thought you already had the E-IX. I'm keen to hear your impressions.
I've got the boundary version, and they are tucked into the corners in my office. The bass from them in that position is remarkably deep for a little sealed box.
I have high hopes for the PFM Special.
The correct size is M5. The hole diameter is 5.3mm.For the mid/woofer M4 bolts and inserts.