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Building the Ergo E-IX mini-monitor loudspeaker system

Small steps... finally my order of caps and inductors arrived, so I could have a crack at building the Xovers.

PXL_20240316_215358628 by Garf Arf, on Flickr

Size wise they are about 100mmx150mm, they may squeeze into the bottom of the speaker. I just need to cut the non populated bit off. I just love turrets. And they are missing R2011.

I have changed the order of C2211 and R2211 I'm sure that doesn't matter...
 
James said:
For free-space, yes. You might like to fiddle with R2011 +/- 15% to adjust to taste.
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Hi James, I saw another circuit layout for the freespace XO with R2011 noted as 8-10 Ohms that you posted earlier (see below):

ACtC-3c0-gzKghcVAM3BS872BSMfDNC2WwWX8XrfZMeUjMyis9XvxgSJjCYDs_HFUEUXnHibF75vNKsgznpAO88Loi4yOy9ja4_vGM9AkVrBMZ63_kTPDvQ5z_2f7yyxedda4tk7IOolymxy5UFUyRodnGMi=w874-h728-no


I think 9 ohms was the value that Stefan included in the group buy also.
 
James said:
Yes, makes no difference, Garf. Good to go. Just don't forget R2011.
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Thank you James.

After plenty of toil they finally work.

PXL_20240317_210634762 by Garf Arf, on Flickr

There is another one. :)

R2011 I set to 9R and they sound pretty good, far better than the Mission 780 they replaced, however lively the Mission's sounded. The XIs sound great on vocals, I think the bass driver needs some loosening up.

I did put a neoprene strip under the tweeter rebate, not seen that reported elsewhere, though plenty of people use leather to get that airtight seal.

I just have the grills to finish now
 
chiily said:
The XIs sound great on vocals, I think the bass driver needs some loosening up.
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I think you mean IX. The Ergo lineage stopped at E-X.

I'd allow about 100hrs of running in. Watch the cone excursion when feeding it with LF-heavy content. You don't want to blow the motor. I suggest limiting it to around +/- 7mm max.
 
I like the early Kan stands! You may wat to look at more rigid stands later, I brazed additional legs to mine when I used Kans and thought it made an improvement. I just fired up my IX's powered by the JVC AX-Z1010 and they still amaze me, the mid bass slam is quite phenomenal and as you say vocals are really excellent. Once they are run in I think you will regard them as keepers.
 
MartinC said:
I like the early Kan stands! You may wat to look at more rigid stands later, I brazed additional legs to mine when I used Kans and thought it made an improvement. I just fired up my IX's powered by the JVC AX-Z1010 and they still amaze me, the mid bass slam is quite phenomenal and as you say vocals are really excellent. Once they are run in I think you will regard them as keepers.
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I use Epos ES11 stands, which are similarly open like Kan stands, but deeper and almost perfectly matched to the E-IX footprint.
 
MartinC said:
I like the early Kan stands! You may wat to look at more rigid stands later, I brazed additional legs to mine when I used Kans and thought it made an improvement. I just fired up my IX's powered by the JVC AX-Z1010 and they still amaze me, the mid bass slam is quite phenomenal and as you say vocals are really excellent. Once they are run in I think you will regard them as keepers.
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I think they are Linn Kan I stands. I've had them for years, since the early 90s. They do "ring" a bit if you tap them.

James said:
I use Epos ES11 stands, which are similarly open like Kan stands, but deeper and almost perfectly matched to the E-IX footprint.
Click to expand...

Strangely I have a pair of EPOS open frame stands in the garage, but I think they are not in the best condition and I've no idea were the bolts are. I shall have a rummage.
 
My first stands for my Ergo IX were DIY wood frame things. James warned me that they would not be rigid enough, and he was right. The sound was very unfocused

I decided to try some Monolith stands from Amazon, which I filled with dry sand about 3/4 of the way up. They sounded stunning, and I continue to use those today.
 
Mike Hanson said:
My first stands for my Ergo IX were DIY wood frame things. James warned me that they would not be rigid enough, and he was right. The sound was very unfocused

I decided to try some Monolith stands from Amazon, which I filled with dry sand about 3/4 of the way up. They sounded stunning, and I continue to use those today.
Click to expand...
Those are probably similar to mine, I also sand filled them and they do work well with the IX's. I added some stick on 3m rubber bumpers to the top to hold the speakers in place.
 
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MartinC said:
Those are probably similar to mine, I also sand filled them and they do work well with the IX's. I added some stock on 3m rubber bumpers to the top to hold the speakers in place.
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Yeah I'm using bluetack, but I doubt that it's doing much. ;)
 
chiily said:
Strangely I have a pair of EPOS open frame stands in the garage, but I think they are not in the best condition and I've no idea were the bolts are. I shall have a rummage.
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Mine had started to rust under the crinkle finish, so I sent them off to a shop for a strip and powder-coat. Looks like new again.
 
hc25036 said:
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Had these made by a local blacksmith - my about-to-be-replaced Linn Kan stands are in the background. I also use some sorbothane pads between the Ergos and the top plate.
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Ah, I spy some Linn Kann stands there too, well just the one. You're locally made ones look very smart.

I've been indulging in a bit of tweaking and listening. I removed the 3mm depth neoprene strip from under the tweeters and replaced it with 1mm. The tweeters sit almost flush with the baffle now, much happier.

Whilst I was there I tightened up the other fasteners for the mid/bass, not too tight, just enough.

Tried the Radford amps on them and they just don't produce enough power to light up the E-IXs, so I'll try my Stasis clone over the weekend, not that there is anything wrong with the NAP160, but it would be interesting to do a comparison. Overall though the IXs are sounding really good, well done James.
 
Yep - the Kann stands had some refurbished LS3/5As on them. Even on those stands the Ergos blew the LS3/5As straight into the office!
 
The red dot denotes the positive terminal. Both midwoofer and tweeter and wired with the same electrical polarity. If one of the drivers is wired with reversed polarity, you will have a deep null around 2kHz.
 
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