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Building the Ergo E-IX mini-monitor loudspeaker system

James said:
Which version will you be building? Free space or wall mount?
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I'm considering the wall mount ones, but the more I read I'm erring to the free space ones. Can the wall ones be pulled out a bit, or do they have to be hard against the wall?

Couple of other questions as I go, the answer's probably in this thread...lots of reading:

I assume it is okay to use threaded inserts, rather that T nuts for both the drivers?

And M8 threaded inserts for holding the back on?

What's the best way of mounting the crossover to the floor of the speaker? Though I am tempted to mount the crossover externally, but there's domestic harmony to consider:)

Looking forward to having another one of your super speakers in the house.

PS the drivers are quite expensive :)
 
chiily said:
I'm considering the wall mount ones, but the more I read I'm erring to the free space ones. Can the wall ones be pulled out a bit, or do they have to be hard against the wall?
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That depends on your room. The wall-mount version may sound bottom-end light if not positioned hard against the wall. Free space version has around +4dB baffle-step compo, and so offers more flexibility.

chiily said:
I assume it is okay to use threaded inserts, rather that T nuts for both the drivers?
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Threaded inserts are fine for the woofer and its cast frame. You just need to make sure they are installed straight and aligned with the bolt-holes. T-nuts offer a bit more latitude. I recommend wood-screws for the tweeter and its plastic chassis.

chiily said:
And M8 threaded inserts for holding the back on?
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I cut M8 threads into hardwood fillets, which are sufficiently robust to secure the backs. You could use smaller bolts (M6) with threaded inserts if using composite material.

chiily said:
What's the best way of mounting the crossover to the floor of the speaker? Though I am tempted to mount the crossover externally, but there's domestic harmony to consider:)
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My crossover board is mounted on the back panel. Just make sure heavy components like inductors are well secured with cable ties. There is also more space on the back panel than the bottom.

chiily said:
Looking forward to having another one of your super speakers in the house.
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You'll be part of an elite group of PFMers with multiple pairs of Ergo loudspeakers.

chiily said:
PS the drivers are quite expensive :)
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Reassuringly so. No one regrets buying quality.
 
Picked up the cabinets from @Mosquito on Saturday and had a listen to his "offset pair. They sounded rather good.

I'm going to build the free space version. Before I press the button on the xover purchase I just wanted to double check the values. Working back through this thread I found this picture of the free spacec xover.

XO diagram by Garf Arf, on Flickr

Is this the most up to date version please?
 
sam_cat said:
Fantastic James, many thanks!

One quick question, would building it in MDF and then veneering it be acceptable, or does it need to be done with hardwood? Or would Oak be as easy to work?
Additionally what are the minimum tools we need/need access to to complete this job?

Thanks,
Sam
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I've used a sandwich in the past with good results, Baltic Birch ply on the inside with MDF on the outside, small pieces are easily glued and clamped together.. MDF for the outside is easier to finish as its consistent, no grain and a pretty good finish to start with.
 
Qwin said:
I've used a sandwich in the past with good results, Baltic Birch ply on the inside with MDF on the outside, small pieces are easily glued and clamped together.. MDF for the outside is easier to finish as its consistent, no grain and a pretty good finish to start with.
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Only if veneering. MDF end-grain takes effort to fill and smooth. Personally, I'd use the better composite (Baltic Birch Ply) on the outside with mitred joints and have exposed ply as an aesthetic feature.
 
I need to dig through my build.notes, I made the free space version but can't recall the value I used for R2011, I occasionally find a little too much stridency so would suggest as James says trying a couple of options. I thought about making the XO external which I wish I had done as that would have given more flexibility in board layout and experimentation.
 
Hobbycraft do hinged lid wooden boxes that are ideal for external xovers, about a tenner each so well worth it rather than having to make something
 
chiily said:
Picked up the cabinets from @Mosquito on Saturday and had a listen to his "offset pair. They sounded rather good.
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Coincidentally, I have reinstated my E-IX after quite some time with my Troels Gravesen-modified NS-1000Ms. The baby Ergos are even better than the NS-1000Ms for coherence and engagement. I remain convinced the E-IX is my most accomplished design, mainly because they look nothing like how they sound. They might remain in-situ for a while.
 
James said:
Coincidentally, I have reinstated my E-IX after quite some time with my Troels Gravesen-modified NS-1000Ms. The baby Ergos are even better than the NS-1000Ms for coherence and engagement. I remain convinced the E-IX is my most accomplished design, mainly because they look nothing like how they sound. They might remain in-situ for a while.
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I'm getting ready to do another push on the PFM Specials later this month. My wife asked where I would be using them, and I told her probably in my office, which is where my E-IX is now. I wonder how they'll compare. 🤔
 
Mike Hanson said:
I'm getting ready to do another push on the PFM Specials later this month. My wife asked where I would be using them, and I told her probably in my office, which is where my E-IX is now. I wonder how they'll compare. 🤔
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I would be very impressed with the IXs if they can match the Special's bass speed and depth, the Specials dynamics can really make one jump.
 
chiily said:
I would be very impressed with the IXs if they can match the Special's bass speed and depth, the Specials dynamics can really make one jump.
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I thought you already had the E-IX. I'm keen to hear your impressions.

I've got the boundary version, and they are tucked into the corners in my office. The bass from them in that position is remarkably deep for a little sealed box.

I have high hopes for the PFM Special.
 
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James Evans said:
Hobbycraft do hinged lid wooden boxes that are ideal for external xovers, about a tenner each so well worth it rather than having to make something
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I shall have a look, as I've decided to mount the "free standing" xovers outside the speakers.

I think I have everything ordered now and on its way, other than fixings, inserts and sealing gasket strip.

For the tweeter it is either wood screws or M3 bolts and inserts. For the mid/woofer M4 bolts and inserts. Still not sure of the size for the front baffle as these will be speakers with grilles - domestic harmony and all that....

Hopefully finish off the last of the gluing this weekend if I find some time. Dry fit the drivers..and xovers to build...
 
Mike Hanson said:
I thought you already had the E-IX. I'm keen to hear your impressions.

I've got the boundary version, and they are tucked into the corners in my office. The bass from them in that position is remarkably deep for a little sealed box.

I have high hopes for the PFM Special.
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I have been hankering after a pair of Ergo IX for years, but never had the "excuse" to have another pair of speakers (just don't say anything about the 57s hiding under the floral cover upstairs, I can't bring myself to sell them).

The Specials are in the front room doing TV and film duty, though lately my wife has figured out how to use Spotify on the Squeezebox in the front room (Threshold Statis copy into the Specials) and I came home one day to find the house was shaking with the music she was playing; Christ it was loud, not the loud of "what's that bloody awful sound" kind of thing, more kind of loud that hits you in the chest. It sounded lovely, clearly her taste in music didn't sound lovely, just the sound itself (don't tell her I said that ) :)
 
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