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Thorens TD-124/II restoration / upgrade

You’re right Tony, twisting them has slightly improved the allignment.

So I’ve now got the Hanze belt and springs fitted. I think some low frequency noise had been reduced but still easily audible higher frequency noise is present. I think the step pulley might be a source of that. Anyway, time to fit the new idler wheel…
 
And here it is, in place:

sKmKZZi.jpg


The idler came with three o-rings of different thicknesses. One might be a better fit and quieter than the others.
 
Looks good. I’ll be interested to know what you think of it as I’ve so far held off buying one. Definitely curious to see if there is any benefit to noise floor/rumble.
 
Tony L said:
Looks good. I’ll be interested to know what you think of it as I’ve so far held off buying one. Definitely curious to see if there is any benefit to noise floor/rumble.
Click to expand...

Well, with the platter off I can’t say I was struck by any reduction in audible noise after fitting the AS idler. I got a Swissonor plinth today too, so am about to transfer the deck into that.
 
I’d not expect there to be. Any difference will be in noise transmission from the step-pulley to the platter, i.e. rumble.

With time you will recognise what aspect each noise is created by. In most cases acoustic noise is the belt, rumble is the idler. Any dirt anywhere tends to translate as noise. This is a turntable that really does need to be surgically clean and correctly lubricated.
 
I used some isopropyl alcohol on the pulley as you suggested and it did improve things. Once the deck is in the plinth I’ll leave it running for a while and then try to have a good listen to see how much improvement has been made and report back.
 
I’ve removed the deck from the old plinth but the new Swissonor plinth needs the (included) shorter levelling rods as the original long ones are too long to fit.

Will they pull out, or screw out somehow? They won’t seem to budge right now.
 
They are just a long fully-threaded rod, screwed into the chassis. They should unscrew easy enough. Just use a cloth and a pair of pliers if they are in there tight, but go easy with them.
 
None of them will move at all even with pliers and lots of pressure. Might have to saw them off to the same length as the shorter rods that came with the plinth.
 
Still no luck trying to unscrew the set bolts - I found out that’s what their proper name is from reading the Swiss Precision book.

I’m reluctant to saw them off as it doesn’t solve the real issue but I can’t see any other way right now - Google reckons 18 teeth per inch for a hacksaw blade to cut through metal.

The Swissonor plinth is ready for the deck now anyway. Hanze had one in stock so I got it less than a week after ordering. It has a lovely finish with a slight conical profile:

dJzoH3a.jpg
 
You really shouldn’t need to cut them. I don’t understand how they are so tight unless some idiot has glued them in. I’ve worked on several 124s over the years and they are usually too loose and wobbly! It’s just a standard M5 thread. Should just screw out like any other bolt, though obviously made more awkward by not having a head.

PS Really nice looking plinth. I like that a lot. Same ‘structure-coat’ finish as mine, but a little heftier and more solid in construction (mine is very light).
 
Nice plinth. Have you tried applying some WD40 to the stuck chassis threaded rod? Let it soak down and hopefully that and a set of mole-grips can get them off. Make sure you turn the right way - perhaps @Tony L can confirm if they are screwed in clockwork or anti-clockwork?
 
Just bog standard thread; ‘righty tighty, lefty loosey’, i.e. turn anti-clockwise to remove them if looking at them from the underside of the chassis. Basically turn them the same way the four levelling wheels came off, it’s all the same thread!
 
Now that you mention it, I wonder if someone has glued them in because they were ‘loose and wobbly’? I’m pretty sure they were very loose and easy to move about on the other two 124s I’ve had.

Yes, the plinth does look great. It’s lighter than I thought it would be actually. My new Sculpture A SUT arrives tomorrow, so notwithstanding the rods issue, the whole project should be finished soon. The whole setup will be:

Thorens TD 124/II
Swissonor plinth and armboard
SME M2-9R
Ortofon SPU #1S
Sculpture A 1:26 SUT
 
Stuart Frazer said:
Nice plinth. Have you tried applying some WD40 to the stuck chassis threaded rod? Let it soak down and hopefully that and a set of mole-grips can get them off. Make sure you turn the right way - perhaps @Tony L can confirm if they are screwed in clockwork or anti-clockwork?
Click to expand...

I’ve been turning them as per Tony’s post above since the start with not even the slightest movement. Not tried WD40 yet, but I’d have to have the deck upside down for it to seep inside (if at all possible).
 
I’ve just screwed two nuts onto one of the bolts but they don’t go tight, I can just unscrew them with my fingers. I must be missing something here!

9DmWOd0.jpg
 
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