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Subs n Lows

I don’t suppose either of us have used all models from both manufacturers in their systems but ime of 2 REL subs and 3 SVS I’ll spend my pennies on an SVS sub - ymmv.
Same I’ve had both compatibly priced REL and SVS and I preferred the SVS … although wasn’t a great deal in it to be fair.
 
Thanks. I wouldn't want to go much more than £4-500 if I could manage it. Wouldn't rule out a used or refurbed sub either, especially if it was from a dealer on ebay which brought the price down a bit.
I hadn't read your post before I replied to Mike, what in particular disappointed you about the Tzero?
I'll check out BK Electric, thanks.
There are some very good articles, info, how to’s and videos on the REL website.

This explains the 3 common ways to connect a Sub:


Your budget will get a used REL T5i T5x T7i T7x with a bit of patience (white ones are usually cheaper) or one of the SVS 1000 Pro, possibly a 2000 but that’s an older design so I’d stick to the 1000 Pro or one of the equivalent BK 400 series.

Check out Richer, 7Oaks and Peter Tyson both on their sites and eBay.

The T-Zero didn’t do much in my smallish home office, barely noticed it, a T5i was a real improvement and imho well worth the extra £. Later on I picked up an original T7 for £150, cosmetically challenged but sonics are 100%, ended up buying another T5i and using them stacked in Mrs AA‘s system - MA GR20.

Well worth a look on forum classifieds if a used bargain appeals, Mavs, AoS and PFM and putting in a WTD Ad.
 
There are some very good articles, info, how to’s and videos on the REL website.

This explains the 3 common ways to connect a Sub:


Your budget will get a used REL T5i T5x T7i T7x with a bit of patience (white ones are usually cheaper) or one of the SVS 1000 Pro, possibly a 2000 but that’s an older design so I’d stick to the 1000 Pro or one of the equivalent BK 400 series.

Check out Richer, 7Oaks and Peter Tyson both on their sites and eBay.

The T-Zero didn’t do much in my smallish home office, barely noticed it, a T5i was a real improvement and imho well worth the extra £. Later on I picked up an original T7 for £150, cosmetically challenged but sonics are 100%, ended up buying another T5i and using them stacked in Mrs AA‘s system - MA GR20.

Well worth a look on forum classifieds if a used bargain appeals, Mavs, AoS and PFM and putting in a WTD Ad.
Thanks for the advice, info and links you've provided so far.
I'll get on this tomorrow.

Excuse the ignorance but what are Mavs, AoS and PFM, and what does WTD mean?
 
I've recently added two Rel S/812 subs to my system. I'm still playing with the settings so lots of work to do, but I'm enjoying what they do. For me, they are most noticeable when playing classical music as there seems to be more low end info to produce than most studio mixed albums. My system sounds a bit more relaxed and spacious. Very pleased I got the subs.
 
Some speakers actually do a very good job with bass, my Klipsch Cornwall IV being a good example, reaching down to 32Hz. I don't want a relatively inexpensive sub to replace that well articulated bass, but merely to supplement the very low frequencies (perhaps 20-50Hz).

Well, I have a set of huge JBL 4331B's. The thing is, if I place them for best general response there is, in my room, a large suck out at about 40 Hz. As you say, an inexpensive sub will not do. Instead I use one of the 4331B's as sub for a set of KEF R100. The R100's is placed for a good general response, mostly by ear, and the sub is placed where it gives an as straight as possible measured response from 20 Hz and up to about 200 Hz. Then the tweaking starts...

How do I know the suck out is at 40 Hz? Well, you guessed it. Measurements.
 
Some speakers actually do a very good job with bass, my Klipsch Cornwall IV being a good example, reaching down to 32Hz. I don't want a relatively inexpensive sub to replace that well articulated bass, but merely to supplement the very low frequencies (perhaps 20-50Hz).

The Cornwalls use a passive radiator, which is not that much different from a port, so the bass can be improved of they're high-passed above the resonant frequency (~35Hz) and a driver is used for the sub-bass range.
Besides, if your room produces interference dips in that range using one or two subs will also address any ringing that masks bass detail.
 
I have had a look around a few online dealers and came up with some options that appear suitable - eg price, size, and ease of connection to my pre amp. Given my novice status regarding subs I think I'll maybe steer clear of the REL's as I am not sure I like the idea of the High Level connection which seems to require connection to speaker terminals on my pre amp, that can happen further down the line.

This is what I came up with. Comments, suggestions and recommendations welcome. Thanks.





 
A bit of a generalisation, but when it comes to subs it can be worth looking at their weight. A lightweight sub may have a case that is likely to vibrate excessively, and/or have a weak driver. Of course it depends on how loud and low the sub is expected to perform.
 
I have had a look around a few online dealers and came up with some options that appear suitable - eg price, size, and ease of connection to my pre amp. Given my novice status regarding subs I think I'll maybe steer clear of the REL's as I am not sure I like the idea of the High Level connection which seems to require connection to speaker terminals on my pre amp, that can happen further down the line.

This is what I came up with. Comments, suggestions and recommendations welcome. Thanks.





The High Level connection method is optional, RELs have the same RCA sockets as the other subwoofers, you decide how to connect things up.

When REL started many moons ago a lot of popular hi-fi integrated amps had no Pre outs never mind dedicated Sub outs, so the High Level method was the way to go. BK actually made subs for REL back then. Over time it’s become an accepted statement that REL and High Level sounds best in a Hi-Fi music system, I suspect REL have done nothing or have probably promoted this “fact” as it’s a bit of a USP (unique selling point).
 
The High Level connection method is optional, RELs have the same RCA sockets as the other subwoofers, you decide how to connect things up.

When REL started many moons ago a lot of popular hi-fi integrated amps had no Pre outs never mind dedicated Sub outs, so the High Level method was the way to go. BK actually made subs for REL back then. Over time it’s become an accepted statement that REL and High Level sounds best in a Hi-Fi music system, I suspect REL have done nothing or have probably promoted this “fact” as it’s a bit of a USP (unique selling point).
Thanks, maybe I have got the wrong end of the stick about how RELs connect to amps after watching that REL video about how to connect the sub then. There does not appear to be Left and Right RCA connections on the Sub so is it just a case of running only one RCA cable between the Low Level RCA connection on the back of the sub to either the Left or Right Pre Out connection on the back of my pre amp?
 
Thanks, maybe I have got the wrong end of the stick about how RELs connect to amps after watching that REL video about how to connect the sub then. There does not appear to be Left and Right RCA connections on the Sub so is it just a case of running only one RCA cable between the Low Level RCA connection on the back of the sub to either the Left or Right Pre Out connection on the back of my pre amp?
The LFE (low frequency effects) phono input is used to connect a subwoofer out from the amplifier - usually an AV surround sound type amp but most modern integrateds especially streaming capable ones have a dedicated subwoofer out.

The Left and Right phono inputs marry up to the Pre Out on the amplifier.

The High Level is less common and offered as an alternative because some people are wedded to that method due to no other option on their amplifier or a preference for connecting that way because it is supposed to sound better.
 
The LFE (low frequency effects) phono input is used to connect a subwoofer out from the amplifier - usually an AV surround sound type amp but most modern integrateds especially streaming capable ones have a dedicated subwoofer out.

The Left and Right phono inputs marry up to the Pre Out on the amplifier.

The High Level is less common and offered as an alternative because some people are wedded to that method due to no other option on their amplifier or a preference for connecting that way because it is supposed to sound better.
I know I'm probably being really thick here, but in your explanation above you said "The Left and Right phono inputs marry up to the Pre Out on the amplifier". Any REL sub I've looked at I have never seen a Left and Right phono input. I can only ever see RCA connections (as I call them) that are called Low Level Input or LFE input. I'm assuming the terms RCA and Phono are just different names for the same thing?

To make it easy for me, I guess what I need to know is how do I connect from my Pre Out connections on the back of my pre amp to a REL sub.
 
.1/LFE —> Subwoofer out phono/rca socket.

Low Level Input —> Pre Out phono/rca socket/sockets. If the Sub only has 1 low level input phono socket you can use a Y-cable or Y-adapter.

There are other ways to connect like XLR and also Passing Thru signals but I was keeping to the standard types/ways to use a subwoofer. There are also things to learn such as crossovers, filters, phase, input voltages, dsp/eq etc. best to walk before running and follow a basic guide to get up and running.

 
Thanks. Which sub is that?

I looked at the REL subs you recommended, eg T5i, T5x, T7i and T7x. None of them had Left or Right inputs. I'll put a few pics below as examples. I looked at a few other REL subs as well, and none of them had Left or Right inputs either so I assumed this was uniform for REL.

T5x


preview.jpg

TZx


preview.jpg


T5i

3874759-ca28fd53-rel-t5i-subwoofer.jpg
 


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