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Screw length needed to hold in brick behind lathe & plaster

I am rather enjoying this thread, gently eccentric and at the same time mildly educational.

I blame neoliberalism and lurch rightward of otherwise nicely central panel fixings, to the revolution!
 
cutting42 said:
I am rather enjoying this thread, gently eccentric and at the same time mildly educational.

I blame neoliberalism and lurch rightward of otherwise nicely central panel fixings, to the revolution!
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you know where money comes from? :D
 
stevec67 said:
I think through the wall to a 12" spreader plate on each corner . Better make that 18" . You're the structural guy here martin, can we get away with M12 studding or should we go to M14?
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Given we have already piled, capped piles, built min 254 x 254 x UC147 goalpost framework to support the telly - it''d be a shame to not also use it with M18 stud into 450 x 450 spreaders to restrain that dodgy brick wall behind.

Sunk costs, and all that...


telemount.jpg
 
Im really looking forward to when we start using 12mm re-bar set into 300mm thick studwork void and filling with superfluid C40 concrete.
That should just about hold up the required 9Kg load.
It would need at least 28 days to fully cure though, which is a bit unfortunate.
But this on top of Martins piles, well, it should just about work.
 
martin clark said:
Given we have already piled, capped piles, built min 254 x 254 x UC147 goalpost framework to support the telly - it''d be a shame to not also use it with M18 stud into 450 x 450 spreaders to restrain that dodgy brick wall behind.

Sunk costs, and all that...


telemount.jpg
Click to expand...
Yes, you're right. M18 it is, haporth of tar and all that. After all, imagine if that 9kg broke loose.
 
Sonority said:
Im really looking forward to when we start using 12mm re-bar set into 300mm thick studwork void and filling with superfluid C40 concrete. That should just about hold up the required 9Kg load. It would need at least 28 days to fully cure though, which is a bit unfortunate.
But this on top of Martins piles, well, it should just about work.
Click to expand...
+1 to this post - except, just to disambiguate : I don't have piles... it was a recommendation based on the load case.
 
NRG said:
corefix, comes in 100 120 or 150mm lengths

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B082WF23TY/?tag=pinkfishmedia-21
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This is exactly what you need. I used something similar, but without the steel tube, to hold up a Habitat CD rack holding 355 opera boxes (ie including booklets) on a lath and plaster external wall. I don’t know what that weighs, but it will be a lot, and it’s still solidly attached after some years. I think the steel tube is probably a good addition. Lath and plaster will be thicker than plasterboard on dabs, so the next size up in length would be sensible to ensure adequate penetration of the brickwork.
 
This site contains affiliate links for which pink fish media may be compensated.
There is actually a piece of climbing equipment called a skyhook. It's used to hook over tiny flakes and give purchase on steep blank walls that would otherwise be impossible.
 
Thanks for the suggestions (well some of them, at least! :D). I'll go with the corefix recommendation.
 
I've tested a 5mm screw in the french cleats and they fit fine, however the 'countersunk' section of the head does protrude out from the bracket quite far. I've also tested a 5mm round-headed screw in the cleat and it seats better. I'm therefore going to purchase some 100mm round heads and use these with the rawl plugs and steel bridging sleeves that come with the Corefix screws. My question is: should I be looking for round heads with only a partially-threaded shaft or will a fully-threaded shaft do the job equally well?
 
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