My eyes aren't the best either, especially under artificial lighting, but I'll have a go and report back. If anyone else wants to give me a second opinion it would be greatly appreciated!Fascinating. It is clear we are dealing with at least three different boards here:
a) Red logo no fuse, in-line soldered driver connections.
b) Fuse, soldered in-line driver connections.
c) Fuse, square plug-fit driver connections.
Can you possibly detail what differs component value-wise from the schematic here and on which of the two crossovers? My colour sense isn’t really up to reading resistor bands, let alone in pictures!
I’m obviously pretty useless at this, but my best guess is the one that is different between the two crossover types is the one near the tweeter level pot. I’d love to know if either matches the schematic though.
I think Tony's referring to my two photos in post #1022, not #1025.I could be wrong, but it looks as if the two resistors are the same, but switched by 180 degrees.
What looks like a very early pair of red logo JR149s (s/n 1575) are ending tonight. They look in pretty good condition;
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rogers-JR-149-Loudspeakers-Mk1-Red-Logo-/254864207073?campid=5338728743
Interestingly they look as if they have had some but not all of the caps replaced. Will be interesting to see what they eventually sell for.
TS
Shhh!
I'll probably leave it though as I've got these LS50 Meta in the house now and I suspect that, in the realm of LS3/5A derivatives, these may be definitive.
Set my trimpots to the 2 o'clock pos as you suggested, definitely improves the balance, they are sounding much more as I remembered my 1st pair now.I definitely like some treble cut in mine, I’m a good way off the centre point, somewhere around two o’clock IIRC (clockwise is cut).