advertisement


Removing mid range driver from top face of Linn Isobarik.

Using a pair of molegrips to hold the head of a high tensile bolt, screw the bolt into one of the 4 holes in the b110 chassis, 2 turns will do as anymore will upset the t nut. then use a nail drawer (with a load spreader on the baffle) under the bolt head .
 
....so it's a slightly oversixed bolt....tring to bite into the speaker frame, and not into the thread (T-nut) below that.
I've a fair selection of bolts I suppose!
Thanks
 
Later brik s have the b110 holes enlarged so the position of the t nut is less critical , so an m8 bolt is needed to tap into the chassis.

I suppose you could grind the end off a self tapper so as not to tap into the t nut .
 
Thanks HP1.....I'd just found your thread from some time ago on this.....and was trying an M8.
Yes....mine are 'recent' ( 0071xx)
 
I think the b110 is drilled out to 6mm so 7mm bolt would be best but harder to find ,if you have a welder make a long t handle for a 12.9 m8 bolt.
 
Currently using bolts that were leftover from a universal fitting kit for a plasma TV mounting bracket...so have no idea of hardness!
Is my local (Leeds) H/W supplier likely to know about this???
 
They have the hardness cast on the top of the head, 8.8,10.9 ,12.9. the ones you have there are probably made of play dough.
 
Heeheehee.......in all my years of using 'em, I hadn't given those marks any significance!
No similar markings on domed pozi types though???
 
Reading this with much interest. Once I've repainted and carpeted my room, I'm gonna replace all the drivers in my briks (have only done tweeters before). I bought the full Falcon kit minus the tweets.

Would be nice to see pics of this process, it would help me a lot.

I do plan to start a thread of my own in a few weeks time when I'm ready to put one of my briks on the surgeons table (floor in my case), and ask you wonderful fellas to chip in with your sage advice. I'll need my hand holding, it's gonna be an epic and exciting undertaking for me. I'll try and document with pics as much as I can.
 
The 12.9 thing is the tensile strength but in this case its the hardness of the first thread of the bolt we are interested in so it will distort the speaker chassis to form a thread in it.
If you go on eBay there is someone called rodball selling m7 x16mm 12.9 tensile strength cap screws at 2 for a fiver. I would go for longer (say 40mm) ones my self but more money.

brik tweeters are removed the same way but with an m5 bolt/capscrew.

The bass units the same but m10/12 (can't just remember) welded to a t handle to reach the rear unit.
 
I think you could use an m7 x1.0 or m7 x0.75 finishing tap as well, a bit brittle though.
 
Right...a new day, a happy heart....and much better light!
So before going any further...the M7 (hex headed cap @12.9 TS) is the better way to go at perhaps a length of more like 40mm? (allowing plenty of room for loadspreading)
 
Still waiting for a local call re: M7 Cap screws....
Wanting to move on, and considering the Kaputski nature of the driver in question, I took a blade to the cone, and nostromo ... this one's for you :)

With cone removed....here's one I prepared earlier, and in best 'Blue Peter' fashion.
ih8erD4.jpg


Conveniently found a cast iron 3" G clamp, and fighting against the speaker magnet, arranged the tip just under the speaker frame.
I needed to remove with a stanley blade, the old clear silicon that Linn had lovingley applied all those years ago, as it was preventing the clamp from 'seating'.

With a couple of old jenga pieces (other blocks will suffice) and a stout bit of softwood, arrange a bridge that'll allow the casing to emerge from the baffle.
F7yAZIL.jpg

Carefully align clamp vertically....and slowly tighten. When it was 'right'....this clamp parted from the magnet as force was applied to the speaker casing.
A few turns, and you'll hear the silicon tearing, and see the edge lift from the face of the baffle.
Gently does it...touchy-feely....a little bit at a time, and moving edge to edge.
After half a dozen or so movements.....it was free enough me to lift clear.

khavo9R.jpg

And .....Hey Presto (haven't heard that for a while)....one mid-driver removed, and no chisel/scredriver damage from enthusiastically administered levering!

Of course....if the drive you're removing isn't shot like mine....then I'm sure the M7 cap screw method would be the way to go :)
 
Ah I think a fair few thought you wanted to remove the driver non destructively.

Certainly de-coning and yanking on the basket is the way the dealers used to do it when new drivers were readily available.

To make it even more fun early models had the drivers stuck in with tar so you had to warm it with a hot air gun too.
 
Tonewheelkev said:
I took a blade to the cone, and nostromo ... this one's for you :)

.
Click to expand...

Thanks for photos, much appreciated.
It seems you couldn't wait to get the M7 bolt to try that method and so ripped out the cone and by using a G-clamp with some stategically placed Jenga blocks pulled, the B110 out by levering the basket. Look like a very clean job, congratulations.

In preparation for my escapade I will be ordering some M7 bolts for the mids and some M10 and M12 bolts as @hp1 recommends....some ebay links to the right bolts (40mm or longer) would be very useful.

If anbody is interested in my tweeter replacement thread from last year have a look here it contains some photos too.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


advertisement


Back
Top