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Quest for the Best Amplifier


  • Dynamics
  • Presence / palpability
  • Energized air
  • Soundstage
  • Pinpoint imaging
  • Deep, controlled bass
  • Natural highs (extended, but not shrill)
  • Tonal richness and accuracy
  • Enjoyable at all typical volumes (anything beyond 65 dB)
  • Sense of Scale
  • That Live! sound
  • Lyricism and musicality
  • Flow
  • Emotion
  • Etc.

All of the above , present in Prima Luna Evo 400 monoblocks... accept no substitutes. They are the best amplifiers...regardless of price...:cool:☺️

Well...ye did ask..😍

b6036cde-f179-464d-90ba-c4d03c0749e8.png
I haven't heard the EVO monoblocks, but I did compare my Cary SLI-100 integrated against PrimaLuna's best integrated, the EVO 400. It didn't scratch my itch, as you can read here. The seller suggested that if I changed the output tubes to the KT150 that were in my Cary, then it would be a fairer fight, but that wasn't the direction I wanted to go.

The moral if the story is that each of us has different expectations and perceptions. ;)
 
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  • Dynamics
  • Presence / palpability
  • Energized air
  • Soundstage
  • Pinpoint imaging
  • Deep, controlled bass
  • Natural highs (extended, but not shrill)
  • Tonal richness and accuracy
  • Enjoyable at all typical volumes (anything beyond 65 dB)
  • Sense of Scale
  • That Live! sound
  • Lyricism and musicality
  • Flow
  • Emotion
  • Etc.

All of the above , present in Prima Luna Evo 400 monoblocks... accept no substitutes. They are the best amplifiers...regardless of price...:cool:☺️

Well...ye did ask..😍

b6036cde-f179-464d-90ba-c4d03c0749e8.png
Add over 1kW of heat as well

Might be good on cold UK winters night but no so good on a hot 40 degree Australian Day 😆

I'm sure it sounds good though
 
Sit back, boys and girls, and prepare for a rollicking tale of excitement, adventure, challenges, and rewards!

Given the choice, I think we would all choose perfection. When it comes to amplifiers (and music reproduction in general), there are many factors that contribute to that tantalizing goal:
  • PRaT (Pace, Rhythm and Timing)
  • Dynamics
  • Presence / palpability
  • Energized air
  • Soundstage
  • Pinpoint imaging
  • Deep, controlled bass
  • Natural highs (extended, but not shrill)
  • Tonal richness and accuracy
  • Enjoyable at all typical volumes (anything beyond 65 dB)
  • Sense of Scale
  • That Live! sound
  • Lyricism and musicality
  • Flow
  • Emotion
  • Etc.
This is a rather tall order, and we typically don’t get everything that we want, so we tend to prioritize. For example, dynamics and PRaT are prerequisites for me, but impressive tonality is a “nice to have”.

Then there’s my good friend. He wants it ALL ! His version of “good enough” is a very high bar indeed. Rather than enjoying all the stuff that’s amazing, he can’t help but fixate on any problems, referring to them as "splinters". Consequently, he’s been on a very long journey for audio satisfaction, suffering much of the way.


A Bit of History…

When my friend and I first started talking audio many years ago, he was running with an Oppo Blu-ray player, (IIRC) NAD pre and power separates, a Musical Fidelity X-10 V3 tube buffer with the external supply and umbilical (his first serious bit of “audiophile” kit), and the KEF LS50 (non-meta). He upgraded his preamp to an Emotiva, which he felt was a big jump forward.

He’s in the country, and his power quality is inconsistent, so he added a PS Audio PerfectWave P5 to improve that.

He changed his speakers to the Vandersteen 2ce Sig III, which did a much better job of energizing his room and doing “scale”, even though it didn’t image quite as well. (The KEF’s concentric driver does that exceedingly well.)

About 5 years ago, I started building Avondale amps for him. First was the NCC200, then NCC220 Qudos, but it wasn’t until the NCC300 Octave monos that he felt it was nominally acceptable. Last year I surprised him with the SE200, which he felt was a welcome improvement.

He also heard the Neurochrome Modulus-686 that I built, which we both felt was powerful and accurate, but not rhythmically engaging. (We both require that PRaT itch to be scratched.)

He still uses the Oppo for playing discs, and he added the EverSolo DMP-A6 (with optional LPS) for streaming.

Over the past couple of years, we also went on a DAC quest that I’ve summarized here: The End of My DAC Journey? He ended up with the Ferrum Wandla, Hypsos and FPL.


Time for a New Speaker…

He was marginally happy with various aspects of his system, but he decided that he had outgrown his Vandersteen speakers. He auditioned a bunch of options in various stores, and he heard my Klipsch Cornwall IV. He liked the Cornwall, but there were some things that he felt weren’t “good enough”, so it didn’t make the cut.

Eventually he happened upon the PMC fact.8 signature, and he fell in love. It also worked well with the Avondale SE200, which we took along for the audition. However, it didn’t have enough bass extension and heft, and he felt it was silly for his fancy new speaker to immediately require a subwoofer. Consequently, he presumed that he would need at least its big brother, the fact.12.

While watching for an opportunity to buy the fact.12, he found a good deal on a used PMC MB2se, so he went on a 2500km road trip to fetch them. After getting the speakers home, he had to shorten the stands to match his ear height. All that effort, and happiness eluded him yet again. The SE200 wasn’t up to the task. :( He was told he would need at least 200WPC to drive them.

FWIW, the speaker’s efficiency is 90 dB/Wm, and I suppose they might make that much noise with 1W, but they sure wouldn't sound any good. :rolleyes:


Finding a Suitable Amplifier…

The Avondale NCC300 is more powerful, so I thought perhaps I might send him his old amp back, to test if it managed things better. Perhaps he could drive the woofers with the NCC300, and the mids and tweeters with the SE200. He nixed that idea because he didn’t want a second power amp in the setup, and he preferred the more sophisticated personality of the SE200.

Then Les from Avondale reached out, and graciously offered for me to go ahead with an SE400 build. That has roughly twice the power of the SE200, so could potentially be a good match for his hungry speakers. In my testing, the SE400 was a big improvement over the SE200, sounding wonderfully lyrical and tonally rich, with a great sense of PRaT. Overall, it has a much more sophisticated and confident presentation. When I cracked it up, though, things started to get a bit jumbled.

Someone here on PFM knew that I had built the Neurochrome Modulus-686, and was aware of my feelings about its strengths and weaknesses. He suggested that the Orchard Audio Starkrimson Ultra might tickle my fancy, so I decided to build that as well, using their SPMS modules and optional capacitor smoothing banks. The resulting amp was a power and control monster, just as good as the Neurochrome in that regard, but with much better rhythm. It wasn’t the best for tonality, but I noticed that if I put my tube preamp in front, then the combo bettered the SE400.

Finally, my friend was talking to his local retailer (The Audio Room in Calgary). They arranged for him to audition the top-of-the-line Hegel H600 integrated.

I also took along my Benchmark HPA4 preamp, which I felt would better his Emotiva. And he had his dust-collecting Musical Fidelity X-10 V3 tube buffer on hand.


The Shootout…

Before we could get started, I had to tighten the binding posts on his speakers, which involved removing the mounting plate with the crossover. The crossover included many Solen capacitors and air core inductors, but curiously all resistors were of the inexpensive sandcast variety. Given the value of the speaker, I was surprised at that. As we were doing that, we noticed that the banana plugs on his link wires weren’t very tight, so we re-terminated all of those.

Our primary test tracks were:
  • Pat Metheny “The Heat of the Day” – You get lots of deep busy bass, buffeted by many other elements across the frequency spectrum. Getting everything to sound simultaneously clear, controlled and musical is a real challenge. I’ve observed many systems utterly fail with this piece.

  • Dr. Lonnie Smith “Paper Tiger” – This has loads of bass from the organ pedals, many extreme percussive elements, and the Hammond needs to have an intense tonal complexity when the Leslie starts to spin. Rhythmically it has the primary elements, plus a long loping gate that often doesn’t come through in lesser systems. If it sounds sleepy, then its a fail.

  • Diana Krall “All or Nothing at All” – Christian McBride’s opening bass work has lots of “wood” in the sound, and his staccato notes require much finesse for the system to get right. Krall’s voice is lustrous and nuanced, with many well-placed slides that need to make sense with her band’s interplay.

  • Four Play (debut album) – This isn’t my friend’s favorite music, so he doesn’t mind wearing it out as a test suite. He knows exactly how he expects it to sound, and it stresses many elements. As he puts it, “If the system isn’t good, then it will sound like milk toast. But if it feels really funky and musical, then the system is doing things right.
There were others, including rock, jazz, classical, and folk (Joni Mitchell, Ani DiFranco, Mozart, Miles Davis, Joe Jackson, Jon Hassel, Andy Creeggan, Ahmad Jamal, etc.). We tended to listen to those only occasionally to validate our perceptions.

We started out with the SE200 (my first time hearing it on these speakers). It sounded very unengaging and “over there”. Virtually no soundstage. Flat and dull! Totally unsatisfying, so I understood my friend’s consternation. These speakers were clearly very demanding, as the fact.8 sounded great with this same amp.

Next up was the SE400, which was a big improvement. Much more natural and fulsome, with a wonderful sense of musicality. However, it was still soft around the edges (especially the bass, which is said to require LOTS of power and control for this speaker). Just as I noticed at my place, when we turned it up, it sounded a bit disorganized. There also wasn’t much of a soundstage. (More on that later.)

Next was the Orchard. Control was much better. Notes were very START-STOP. Rhythmically exciting and dynamic! As I noticed at my house, though, it was missing the tonality that we had with the SE400. Overall, though, it was clearly the best at driving these speakers. We decided to leave the Orchard in place, then start tweaking upstream elements.

I’ve always teased my friend about his Emotiva preamp. That started back when I was running my Benchmark DAC2 straight into my power amps (because I had discovered it sounded better than through my Naim NAC52/Super). Since then. I've learned that sometimes a preamp really does help. We replaced his Emotiva with my Benchmark HPA4, and we were shocked at the improvement. Much more brilliance, clarity, and shimmer; more weight and palpability; and suddenly we had a significant soundstage! At the time we didn’t know whether the Emotiva had been choking that out, or if the Benchmark was adding it. (Even more on that later.)

At this point, my friend was becoming hopeful, but he pointed out that the Hammond didn’t sound edgy enough--it needed more tonal complexity. That’s when we inserted the Musical Fidelity X-10 V3 tube buffer between the Benchmark and the Orchard. Those second-order harmonics added what he wanted to the Hammond, but it notably softened the edges of many things (especially bass). I thought perhaps it wasn’t getting enough signal from the Benchmark to make the tubes “sing”, so we moved it to between the Wandla and the Benchmark. That was the ticket! Suddenly everything snapped back into place, with the desired tonal intensity that my friend demanded.

So, this was the best by far, and I felt it should be sufficient to meet my friend’s expectations.

There was still one more component to test. We hooked the Wandla directly to the Hegel H600, then from it to the speakers. This is a very expensive unit, so there was the possibility that it would completely trounce the cheaper combo.

The differences were interesting. First, the soundstage shrank, which suggests that the Benchmark was adding the effect somehow. (I doubt that the expensive Hegel was choking it.) 🤷‍♂️ It also lost much of the bass weight. Perhaps it was because of the things that were gone, but it sounded more nimble with busy rhythmic sections, but overall it was definitely a step back.

Then we realized that we could use its pre-amp section alone. We hooked that into the Orchard, and regained some of the magic, but overall, we still preferred the MF/Benchmark/Orchard combo by a significant margin. It did pretty much everything right.


Conclusion…

I felt we had a winner, yet my friend didn't seem convinced. "Is there anything that it didn't get right?" That’s an intriguing question. I didn’t feel there was anything missing. I went through a wider range of my test tracks and nothing disappointed. Everything was reproduced with aplomb!

Then I had an insight. I think my friend was distracted by the fact that it sounded so good. 🤔 The MB2se is clearly more of a “studio monitor” than a “home stereo speaker”. Everything feels utterly effortless. Clarity is astounding. The ability to listen into the music is superb. There is never a sense that it’s “trying hard”. Having spent time in many studios, this wasn’t unusual presentation for me, but I think it was a bit strange for my friend. I told him to spend some time listening to it. Then try listening to another system (like the fact.8 in the store), and see he still likes that presentation more. Worst case scenario, he could downgrade to the fact.12.

He is considering looking for a tube preamp. He feels indebted to the Audio Room for their help, so he would like to give them some business, but I’m not sure if their options will suit his extreme expectations. I have a Cary SLP-2002, which is known for being very good with PRaT, and he would need to find something similarly capable.

Overall, it’s been a great journey down the rabbit hole of amplifiers, tubes, etc. I’m back in my office listening to my own Wandla, directly into the SE400, which is plugged into a Hammond isolation transformer. It's driving the Ergo IX, and that seems to be a good combination. 👍


Postscript...

Given my friend’s exacting expectations and history of dissatisfaction, I was concerned that he might never be appeased. However, I just received this message from him, posted to a chat space shared with a mutual friend. It gives me hope that things are going to turn out just fine. 😊


So Mike is back home and I have spent the morning listening to our end state.

Am using the weekly Spotify recommend because it's a perfect test. Lossy (so if it still sounds good), all completely unknown to me (no bias), with a myriad of quality, recording & production techniques - so a completely randomized sample to judge from.

And what can I tell you? I am listening at significantly low volume and everything is being communicated... perfectly.

For the first time in living memory, not one single 'mistake'. Everything is correct. Not a single 'ear splinter' to be annoyed by, anywhere in sight. I can just listen to the music.

It has sufficient boogie now that I have gotten used to it so that's good. Mike previously remarked how there was so little effort expended by the amp and speakers that it is entirely unflappable. To Mark that was perceived as a lack of excitement, visceral-ness and Mike countered that I need to reset my expectations and traditional assess of what 'good' is; that struggling to reproduce is not excitement. I will have to think on that and get used to just how unflappable this system now is.

But the monitor sound of the speakers now with the right power are incapable of being shaken, only stirred. That's a new thing to these ears.

Jill [Mike's wife] who doesn't like to be [forcibly] 'engaged' by music could sit next to me and draw for hours at this dB level and yet I would be entertained. At a later point (busy this afternoon) I will put on some important CDs and see what happens when I turn the wick up and really energize the room. Can we rock my casbah...truly?

Anyway any tube Pre would need to be as good as or better than this combo for me to try and change it. And I am very apprehensive of even setting out on that path. It would definitely have to be this level of achievement (with tube buffer + Benchmark Pre) but even better to make it worth doing.

At this point tho there is nothing to be 'fixed' only additional "9s" to go and chase should I feel I really need to. And that determination will require quite a bit of listening.

For now, compliments to the chef(s). 👨‍🍳
Thank you for your review, could you give me your take on what you mean by this START STOP, thank you.
 
Thank you for your review, could you give me your take on what you mean by this START STOP, thank you.
FWIW, this much the same thing as an amplifier described as fast, controlled, or having minimal overhang.

A loudspeaker is a reactive load, both electronically and physically. An amplifier applies voltage and injects current into the crossover and speaker driver, resulting in a magnetic field that pushes and pulls the cone in physical space, which of course creates the sound. One would hope that an amplifier's "commands" are obeyed verbatim by the speaker. Unfortunately, that's rarely the case. The signal may indicate that the cone is supposed to follow a particular pattern, but it's often difficult to get it to behave exactly as necessary.

If an amplifier isn't capable of controlling the speaker's reactive load, then this results in things like smearing, overhang, sluggish rhythm, softened dynamics, etc.

Amplifiers that are "fast" and good at "START STOP" are better able to keep the speaker marching in time with the musical signal.

Very good amplifiers will be able to control a wider variety of speakers, but even lesser amplifiers can sound very good if the speaker presents a compatible load.
 
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I think the 250W into 2R is a limitation of the SMPS power supply not the an actual amplifier module. Orchard quote a maximum current at 20A which maybe be peak but that equivalent to 800W into 2R

The module has a current limitation of 20A, however, my power ratings are very conservative. Unlike other manufacturers, I do not rate my amplifers at 10% or even 1% distortion because at this point the amplifier is clipping. If you see my full specification you will see that at the rated power the amplifier put out about 0.01% distortion. In my opinion, any power at 1% distortion is not usable.

All of my power ratings are RMS. When considering a sine wave, peak power is double RMS power.
Also, my amplifers are stable even at a 1ohm load, however, the power drops even further. The current the amplifier has available at 4ohm is the same for 2 ohm and 1 ohm loads. So the rating ends up looking like this:
250Wrms or 500W peak into 8 ohms (this is a voltage limitation)
500Wrms or 1000W peak into 4 ohms (this is voltage limitation)
250Wrms or 500W peak into 2 ohms (this is a current limitation)
125Wrms or 250W peak into 1 ohm (this is a current limitation)
 
FWIW, this much the same thing as an amplifier described as fast, controlled, or having minimal overhang.

A loudspeaker is a reactive load, both electronically and physically. An amplifier applies voltage and injects current into the crossover and speaker driver, resulting in a magnetic field that pushes and pulls the cone in physical space, which of course creates the sound. One would hope that an amplifier's "commands" are obeyed verbatim by the speaker. Unfortunately, that's rarely the case. The signal may indicate that the cone is supposed to follow a particular pattern, but it's often difficult to get it to behave exactly as necessary.

If an amplifier isn't capable of controlling the speaker's reactive load, then this results in things like smearing, overhang, sluggish rhythm, softened dynamics, etc.

Amplifiers that are "fast" and good at "START STOP" are better able to keep the speaker marching in time with the musical signal.

Very good amplifiers will be able to control a wider variety of speakers, but even lesser amplifiers can sound very good if the speaker presents a compatible load.
I hope you don't mind these questions, Mike, but:

Isn't this all characterised by the amplifier's output impedance? (At least, leaving aside nonlinear effects aka distortion)

And by "compatible load" do you mean "as low an output impedance as possible" (= very high damping-factor), or that the output impedance (resistive & reactive components) should somehow be tailored to suit the input impedance of the loudspeaker?
 
I hope you don't mind these questions, Mike, but:

Isn't this all characterised by the amplifier's output impedance? (At least, leaving aside nonlinear effects aka distortion)

And by "compatible load" do you mean "as low an output impedance as possible" (= very high damping-factor), or that the output impedance (resistive & reactive components) should somehow be tailored to suit the input impedance of the loudspeaker?
It's far more nuanced than that. Yes, the amp's output impedance plays a part. There are other aspects with how the amp handles feedback in the output circuit. Some speakers require much more current for their low end driver, which some amplifiers handle better than others.

Then machinations of amplifier design are extremely convoluted. There's no way to predict with 100% confidence whether a given amplifier and speaker pairing will dance or flop.
 
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It's far more nuanced than that. Yes, the amp's output impedance place a part. There are other aspects with how the amp handles feedback in the output circuit. Some speakers require much more current for their low end driver, which some amplifiers handle better than others.

Then machinations of amplifier design are extremely convoluted. There's no way to predict with 100% confidence whether a given amplifier and speaker pairing will dance or flop.
For speakers that require high current at low frequencies - that should be directly apparent from the frequency-dependent impedance of the loudspeaker, and similarly the effects of feedback are reflected in the output impedance of the amplifier. (Though taking account of nonlinear effects does make any analysis a lot more complex)

Not trying to be disrespectful in any way Mike - just asking you as someone who has built and listened to many amplifiers. But is (for example) frequency-dependent output impedance something you've ever tried to measure to correlate with subjective experience?


Without getting into another tedious objectivist*/subjectivist debate, I hope most will agree on the notion that any real differences in SQ between two amplifiers must correspond to real differences in output voltage (i.e. if one were able to measure the output vs time of each separately into the same loudspeaker and later compare) even if the subjective significance of objective differences isn't fully understood.

For what its worth, I do have experience of comparing a few "high-quality" amplifiers and finding subjective differences, though I have no measurement equipment to make any objective comparisons. Objectivism can be about trying to be a smartarse and to provoke people (as some on this forum have indulged in) - but it can also be about curiosity and trying to make sense of things.
 
For speakers that require high current at low frequencies - that should be directly apparent from the frequency-dependent impedance of the loudspeaker, and similarly the effects of feedback are reflected in the output impedance of the amplifier. (Though taking account of nonlinear effects does make any analysis a lot more complex)

Not trying to be disrespectful in any way Mike - just asking you as someone who has built and listened to many amplifiers. But is (for example) frequency-dependent output impedance something you've ever tried to measure to correlate with subjective experience?


Without getting into another tedious objectivist*/subjectivist debate, I hope most will agree on the notion that any real differences in SQ between two amplifiers must correspond to real differences in output voltage (i.e. if one were able to measure the output vs time of each separately into the same loudspeaker and later compare) even if the subjective significance of objective differences isn't fully understood.

For what its worth, I do have experience of comparing a few "high-quality" amplifiers and finding subjective differences, though I have no measurement equipment to make any objective comparisons. Objectivism can be about trying to be a smartarse and to provoke people (as some on this forum have indulged in) - but it can also be about curiosity and trying to make sense of things.
Don't worry. You can't offend me, as I'm more interested in learning that getting upset. ;)

I'm in a similar boat to you: I don't have extensive measuring equipment. Therefore, I generally look to measurements done by others.

However, I do trust my ears to be very discerning, for a variety of reasons that I won't bore you with. With many amps that supposedly measure in a similar fashion, I can hear clear differences. Therefore, my only reasonable assumption is that those measurements don't fully capture all aspects that affect the ultimate performance.

As for the cause for these differences, we humans get caught up in simple numbers like "impedance" and "voltage", but the actual behavior of a system is stupidly complex. Therefore, it doesn't surprise me that different systems behave in different ways.

I had one experience a couple years back that was very educational:
  • I was driving a set of speakers (Totem Mite, IIRC) with an Avondale NCC200 stereo amp, and I was completely underwhelmed by the performance. It was sleepy, with a poor frequency response and lack of dynamics.
  • I was driving another set of speakers (Royd Sintra 2) with a little SMSL amplifier, and it also sounded very poor. The bass was bloated, while the upper frequencies seemed thin and anemic.
One day I swapped the amps, and I was astonished to discover that both pairings sounded FAR better than they had before. For whatever reason, each amp was better suited to one speaker, but not the other.

One could reasonably assume that if one amp is better than the other, then it should be able to drive both speakers more effectively. Yet that was clearly not the case!

It was at that stage that I fully accepted that there's a crucial and mysterious relationship between an amplifier and a speaker.

This makes sense, when you think of it. The speaker is part of the amplifier's output circuit, as both a filter and a load. Variations in the speaker's design will have a significant impact on the performance of the "overall circuit".

Perhaps one day we'll develop a series of tests (for both speakers and amplifiers) that perfectly reflects their ability to pair with each other. Until then, I'll look to the objective measurements for a hint of the performance, but I won't truly know how an amplifier will sound until I pair it with a given set of speakers.

And yes, this makes the whole issue of buying a system rather troublesome and haphazard, but that seems to be the way of it. 🤷‍♂️
 
This somewhat relates to my other thread on relative component importance:
  • I think we could agree that variations in room size, speaker positioning, etc., there is no one speaker that is perfect for all rooms. Therefore, you need to target a particular range of speakers, given your room.
  • As I noted in my message above, the relationship between the amplifier and speaker is critical. Therefore, once you've narrowed your selection of speakers, you have to try to find a suitable amplifier for each.
How does anyone get through this mess without extensive trial and error?!? I know that I've been through innumerable permutations of systems, and I still feel like I haven't "finished" optimizing my system(s). It's no wonder we frequent these forums, because we need all the help we can get! 🤣
 
Don't worry. You can't offend me, as I'm more interested in learning that getting upset. ;)

That's good. With all the terrible things going on in the World + the ineptitude of our various national leaders, the antagonism we often see on such comparatively very minor issues looks rather silly.

This makes sense, when you think of it. The speaker is part of the amplifier's output circuit, as both a filter and a load. Variations in the speaker's design will have a significant impact on the performance of the "overall circuit".

Though intriguingly, many suggest big differences between (line-level) pre-amps, where this is not a factor.
 
Though intriguingly, many suggest big differences between (line-level) pre-amps, where this is not a factor.
In the case of preamps, I think it has more to do with with the internal machinations of the chosen circuit, components, etc. Things like tubes can have a massive impact in this regard.
 
But is (for example) frequency-dependent output impedance something you've ever tried to measure to correlate with subjective experience?

According to this paper that is a real issue, along with signal level variations in output impedance, especially around the (amplifier) crossover region.

(Feedback theory has several sneaky pitfalls)
 
Some very interesting discussion in this thread...

.. I've been on my own quest the last couple of years, mostly along the DIY route after getting a good uplift a few years ago from swapping my NCC200 (Avondale) amplifier modules for the NCC220 Qudos modules.

My latest amplifier that I've been tweaking over the last winter is dual mono, 420VA toroids, Hackercap PSUs and "Only Music 2.7" amplifier modules as recommended by S-Man on here. These modules have been modified for dual output transistors running off 50V rails.

Long story short I've found all of my amplifier builds so far are heavily influenced by what capacitors are used in both the Hackercap PSU's and locally on the amplifiers themselves, in particular the local power rail decoupling caps rather than the capacitors in the signal path. In fact it would appear that power supply impedance is as important if not more important than the amplifier topology itself, provided it is competent.

With all that said whilst I have now got this DIY sounding very good in many areas, there is still a slight glare/edge/nasality in the lower treble region which shows it's face on certain recordings and makes them unpleasant, despite around 80% of music being very good - often startlingly so.

With that in mind I've had my eye out to try some other commercially available amplifers. In particular I've had my eye on Exposure having heard that they are voiced with Naim-like PRaT but a more natural presentation....

.... so I managed to pick up an ex-demo Exposure 3510 stereo power amp for a good price off e-bay this week, with apparently only about 20hrs demo use on it, which I'm inclined to believe as it smells like new!

After a couple of evenings listening I can tell that this amplifier is very good and ticking all the important boxes for me. Very good PRaT, excellent tonality and smoothness through the important upper mids and treble and overall a very natural and realistic presentation. Vocals and lead instruments sound particularly good and realistic, and overall it is musical and engaging but non-fatiguing.

As I was kind of expecting, the only area where is loses out (slightly!) to my DIY build is in bass definition and dynamics, which also results in a less deep sound stage. I guess the single, smallish, shared transformer and PSU isn't quite up to the job in this design compared to a full dual mono.

However, I am enjoying listening to this amp and will be interested to see if it opens up any more or changes as it "breaks in" -surprisingly Exposure say it needs 48hrs of running to bed in!
It could turn out that this amplifier is "enough", though I can't help feeling that the 3510 monoblocks might be what I'm really looking for, to remove the final limitation.
 
According to this paper that is a real issue, along with signal level variations in output impedance, especially around the (amplifier) crossover region.

(Feedback theory has several sneaky pitfalls)
Great link S-Man, I'll have to read it in more detail later.

One thing that has occurred to me is that if output impedance versus frequency is important then this is probably one hidden advantage of an "active" speaker system where each amp only has to deal with with one driver and a more limited frequency band.

Coincidentally I was reading yesterday about the Grateful Dead's "Wall of Sound" PA system from the 70's. They decided to use multiple PA channels so that each one only dealt with one instrument or voice, in fact they used one channel each for each string of the bass guitar! The aim was to improve clarity and reduce intermodulation distortion from an amplifier or speaker having to cope with an overly complex signal.
 
Hu85A9.jpg

The plot above shows a three-way speaker's impedance (solid black line). This is a good example of a difficult-to-drive 8Ω speaker.

This is where an amplifier's damping factor along with the speaker wire is very important.

From the speaker impedance curve above, we see that at 119Hz the impedance is 2.6Ω.
Similarly, at 3kHz it is 19Ω.

Calculating out the DB SPL Difference at the speaker based on the damping factor (amplifier + speaker wire)
RviGt3.jpg


The general rule of thumb for A/B and A/B/X tests is that levels should be matched to better than 0.1dB. If this is not done, the level changes can be detected by many listeners. In other words with he above speaker you would want the damping factor between your amplifier and speaker cable to be at least 250.

As an example say your amplifier has a damping factor of 1000 (output impedance is 0.008 ohms), but then you use an 8-foot 16AWG speaker cable. The resistance of 16 AWG wire is 0.0041 ohms per foot. The speaker cable is 16 feet because it's 8 feet for each leg. so the total resistance is 0.0656 ohms. Add this speaker cable resistance to the amplifier output impedance and it is 0.0736. Now your total damping factor at the speaker's binding post is 8/0.0736 = 109.

The amplifier's amazing damping factor is destroyed by the speaker wire in this scenario.

The above assumes the amplifier's damping factor is constant over frequency.
 


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