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Pro-Ject Pre Box S2 digital DAC

To be clear Dimitry, is it the case please that if you use the supplied external S2D PSU, and you do not use your special non-standard smart power cable, that the S2D works as expected?
 
I dont have it connected to the ipad anymore, but will try again to find out. I suspect that it may have been interaction between a standard smps that i was using at the time and the smart cord.

S2D appears to need constant, uninterrupted power to the powered apple camera adapter in addition to its own external power in order to work properly with IOS devices. I already know from experience with Pangea XL USB that power must be present on the USB connection to successfully start the handshake. This suggests that it has to be present on the USB connection in order to continue operating uninterrupted. Apple powered USB camera adapter will supply 100 mw to the device, which is not enough to operate S2D, but enough for USB handshaking.

It comes down to the choice of the USB receiver chip and implementation inside the unit. Hopefully, John can confirm this operational "quirk".
 
To clarify, SMPS was used to power the Ipad camera adapter and, hence, the Ipad. S2D was powered from a constant LPS. My suspicion is that the camera adapter power was not constant.
 
Hi @JohnW

Can you share how the jitter reduction works on the Toslink input, with the dual ESS chips?

ESS have their famous (incoming) jitter elimination tech but I don't know how this works with dual chip arrangement?

Or are you by-passing the ESS tech and using your own re-clocking stage?

The reason I ask - the Toslink input sounds really really good.... and even sounds super focused which I can't always say about Toslink with other DACs.

It's probably be easier to understand if it were a single ESS chip arrangement but the dual chip arrangement had me wondering how ESS's jitter elimination would be incorporated - if at all.

Cheers!
 
Hi @JohnW
The reason I ask - the Toslink input sounds really really good.... and even sounds super focused which I can't always say about Toslink with other DACs.
I agree, for me Toslink sounds far superior to USB direct into the computer. However, I recently got an USBridge and then the sound through USBridge is slightly better and also supports up to DSD512 native (I am very impressed by the USBridge, excellent price/performance).
 
We will not allow MS to spy on what software we install / run with Windows10.... its NON of MS business.... Windows10 reports almost EVERYTHING back to MS.

They rolled these new telemetry "features" out to Windows 7 and 8 as well:
https://www.ghacks.net/2017/02/11/blocking-telemetry-in-windows-7-and-8-1/

To me the stance not to install Windows 10 in the lab means you are not supporting this product under Windows 10. Yet on the website it is stated that "The device is fully compatible with Windows 10.": http://www.box-designs.com/main.php?prod=preboxs2digital&cat=default&lang=en

But if you don't have Windows 10 machines in the lab to test with, this is an empty promise since you can't actually make sure it's working. You should update the website to accurately state that you don't know if it's compatible with Windows 10 or not, since you don't have any machines to test with...
 
I agree, for me Toslink sounds far superior to USB direct into the computer. However, I recently got an USBridge and then the sound through USBridge is slightly better and also supports up to DSD512 native (I am very impressed by the USBridge, excellent price/performance).

Agreed, Toslink kills USB direct from computer for me too.

In what ways does the USBridge sound better to you? Is the Allo smoother than Toslink or a little more detailed/brighter? And which one has better bass for you?
 
Agreed, Toslink kills USB direct from computer for me too.

In what ways does the USBridge sound better to you? Is the Allo smoother than Toslink or a little more detailed/brighter? And which one has better bass for you?
A little smoother but still at least as detailed. Bass feels pretty similar. Toslink sounds a little harsh (digital?) in comparison, but its not night and day difference.
 
I traced the Ipad incompatibility with S2D to Audioquest noise reduction device - Jitterbug. Once removed, the connection is quite stable.
 
Hi there,
Anyone knows what is the real life current needed, less than 1amp for sure but how much? Building a power supply now...
Thanks!
 
Hi,
makes sense, so I hold true for now that a continuous 500mA is enough. Still looking for the data which is nowhere in sheets and specs...
 
Hi,
makes sense, so I hold true for now that a continuous 500mA is enough. Still looking for the data which is nowhere in sheets and specs...

The USB 2.0 spec is max 500mA and since this DAC can be powered by USB 2.0 alone, that would be it's max consumption.

Most bus powered USB DACs say max consumption < 2.5W.

They don't typically say 200mA or 300mA or 400mA consumption unfortunately.
 
I bought one of these little boxes. Sounds really great. It had occurred that in recent times my set up , see pic, had been sounding a bit dead. Has a bit more life now
 
Beside the current, which is a number I'm still longing for, can some of you smart users answer this please:

- are early bugs fixed, included patch to avoid the DAC's internal DSD channel swap issue?
- is this unit reliable, as some pretend the knob is poorly adjusted and scratch the case, or that the Mini USB socket get loose in the case easily?

Thanks again,
Matthieu
 
Beside the current, which is a number I still long for, can some of you smart users answer this please:

- are early bugs fixed, included patch to avoid the DAC's internal DSD channel swap issue?
- is this unit reliable, as some pretend the knob is poorly adjusted and scratch the case, or that the Mini USB socket get loose in the case easily?

Thanks again,
Matthieu

The DSD channel swap were fixed in the 2.12 firmware. At least one user with a creative and elaborate DIY endpoint setup can still create occasional pops and clicks, but few of us have experienced that since 2.12.

I've never heard of the volume/multifunction knob scratching the case. My complaint is that it often does not respond for a few clicks. Version 2.12 did not address this, and the cause may in fact be due to the choice of optical encoder.

Some units in a recent production run had poorly-mounted Mini USB power sockets. At last report the Pro-Ject support people were moving quickly to repair or replace all such units, and to ensure the factory addresses this defect.
 
Thanks, are thoses pops and clicks full volume ones or relative to set volume level, as full 2V pops and clicks are a no-no to a power amp.
IMO that's a lot of issues and quite a slow debug for a no more brand new gear, so the amount of 350€ is held, no purchase right now. BTW, is there somewhere where the log of firmware versions and fixes is held?
 
Thanks, are thoses pops and clicks full volume ones or relative to set volume level, as full 2V pops and clicks are a no-no to a power amp.
IMO that's a lot of issues and quite a slow debug for a no more brand new gear, so the amount of 350€ is held, no purchase right now. BTW, is there somewhere where the log of firmware versions and fixes is held?

I don't recall the details, but the pops/clicks were quite loud. You'll find reports by others if you search this thread and other forums.

They have not released a firmware change log. I've requested one, and explained this is normal and expected.

@Mark Dirac has compiled a very useful summary of points made on pinkfish, head-fi, and computeraudiophile here: http://goo.gl/LbevA6
 


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