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Pro-Ject Pre Box S2 digital DAC

WASAPI is built into Windows modern audio subsystem. In exclusive mode it offers bit perfect playback. Use it by default. ASIO was a must before WASAPI was introduced. The only reason to still use it is if you want to play DSD. Or you record music. For PCM playback use WASAPI.
In Foobar2000, use WASAPI plugin and as playback device choose device which name includes WASAPI event mode.
Also usually you don't want Pro-ject to be your default sound device in Windows, change the default to built in sound card. Now you have bit perfect playback.
In Tidal along choose Pro-ject device not default system device. Choose exclusive mode, MQA pass though. You have now Bit perfect playback.
 
Thanks pj. Now so clear & straightforward. There's so much misleading bol*ocks written about this on the web, partly 'cos so much has changed over the years. (Including that written by me above.) I have added to the summary document, if that's OK.

Out of curiosity - why do you recommend "you don't want Pro-ject to be your default sound device"?
 
I recommend this Because of exclusive mode. Foobar2000 will lock the device, then other application will try to use it as default device. Sometimes something might crush. So it is just good practice. Unless you want to listen to YouTube using dac.
So what I do, I set Windows Sound schema to No sound, set default device to built in audio, and DAC to be used by audio apps in exclusive mode.
You also asked about volume control working even when you use WASAPI exclusive mode. In short do not worry, it is not Windows shared mode mixer anymore. If need to know more, here is explanation for geeks : https://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/library/windows/desktop/dd370839(v=vs.85).aspx

https://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/library/windows/desktop/dd370844(v=vs.85).aspx
 
Oh yes, that makes sense. Done it - thanks.

And, do you believe that WASAPI, in Windows 10, when configured correctly, is capable of bit-perfect transmission?
 
sberry20118 said:
Agreed, unless that's actually the way that filter was intended by John W ?

Here is the first S2 DAC death I've read about so far that doesn't have anything to do with breaking the microUSB connector (which I've had happened with other DACs too):

https://community.roonlabs.com/t/pro-ject-pre-box-s2-digital/29726/558
Click to expand...
No worries, its still alive, it was the iFi nano iUSB3 that had died.

Getting fed up with USB, I am playing it through Toslink now, and I have to say I love it so far. Very quiet background, and wider soundstage, and I hear background details I had not heard before. But toslink quality depends a lot on the sender, I guess my fairly new computer with Asus motherboard does a good job with toslink.

For example, I am listening to Telegraph road with Dire Straits right now. at 11:10 there is some background guitars that starts in left and right, and those are more clear and detailed that I ever heard them with USB.
 
How do I verify, that foobar is in wasapi exclusive mode?

Does somebody plays MQA files in Foobar and have MQA icon on S2 display?
I downloaded MQA files from 2L and then play it in Foobar. MQA icon isn't on S2 display. What you have set in the Foobar to play MQA files correctly and MQA icon light on display?
 
I am still enjoying the toslink to this DAC (from computer, asus motherboard), much better than USB straight from the computer. Can someone else compare? Is it just my setup?

Someone at Roon forum even liked toslink better than USB through a microRendu.
 
pj.walczak said:
You set up allow exclusive mode in Windows for your DAC.
In Foobar2000 you install WASAPI plugin and you remove all DSD plugins, replay gain etc. Select WASAPI Pro-ject as your output device.
You can take a look at this Foobar2000 guide : http://www.fidelizer-audio.com/user-guide/
Or that one : https://www.naimaudio.com/sites/default/files/products/downloads/files/Naim DAC-V1 - Foobar2000 Configuration.pdf
In Foobar2000 set volume to 100%. You are good to go test MQA.
Click to expand...
My setting was correct acording to your links. I forgot that SOX resampler was enable. When I disable SOX than MQA runs wihout problem.
 
MagnusH said:
I am still enjoying the toslink to this DAC (from computer, asus motherboard), much better than USB straight from the computer. Can someone else compare? Is it just my setup?

Someone at Roon forum even liked toslink better than USB through a microRendu.
Click to expand...

@MagnusH all things being equal, in terms of jitter coax is superior to USB is superior to optical, according to Mike Moffat. But of course things are never equal, and USB is particularly challenging. Hence their "Eitr" product. Just thinking about what may affect USB makes my head hurt. I even had a ham radio signal creeping along a USB line and into a DAC once.

I haven't done any A/B comparison with equivalent setups. I've used this DAC's coax and optical inputs only when USB is not available, with Squeezebox streamers (a vast improvement over the internal 10 year-old DACs, of course) and while testing a new CD player. Otherwise I've only used USB, because the S/PDIF inputs don't handle MQA or DSD.
 
I also hadn't tried toslink before, tried it when my USB tweak broke down, and was surprised that it sounded as good as it does. I know its supposed to be bad, but my ear tells me something completely different.

For me, compared to USB straight into computer, DSD downsampled to PCM and played over toslink sounds far better than DSD 512 native does over USB (as an example). With this in mind, I can't say I miss USB-DSD :)

The obvious explanation to this is of course that toslink removes 100% of whatever electrical noise the PC generates (something that coax does not, even with Eitr in between).
 
I also should mention that the optical cable I have is some cheap $8 cable, I have ordered a better one (but still cheap one, the Supra ZAC for around $30). Not sure how important cables is to toslink though.
 
@MagnusH have you compared converted DSD in toslink with the same thing in USB? DSD sounds better to me transcoded and filtered at all times. The high frequency noise in DSD absolutely kills my ears, so aside from experimenting with my Pre Box toy I normally only buy DSD to obtain rare and pristine albums, then listen to them only transcoded to PCM 88.2 hard as that may be for some to believe.
 
No I haven't, but the difference is way bigger than PCM/DSD/resampling differences. I used DSD just as an example, and how its kinda redundant to miss DSD (and MQA) for toslink when PCM sounds so much better than anything over USB. But maybe its my computers USB that is very noisy.
 
@MagnusH understood. When I need it optical sounds great here too, even over cheap plastic pipes. But to your point, your computer likely is the USB culprit especially if your iffy iFi iUSB (or eye-whatever) has died. The best solutions I've tried cost as much as the S2D or more, unfortunately. I use UpTone and Sonore products with other DACs here. As I'm sure you know, you could also slap together a RasPi just for music and control it with Roon. Some of us spend more time tinkering than listening, but whatever floats your boat.
 
Time to check my capacitors. Can anyone please guide how to get inside? I removed the two screws underneath, and the two screws on the rear panel. The sleeve has come loose, but will not slide off. Amir couldn't quite remember and suggested pulling the knob off the front, but boy it's tight - doesn't feel right to pull that off. ??? Thanks.
 
Mark Dirac said:
Time to check my capacitors. Can anyone please guide how to get inside? I removed the two screws underneath, and the two screws on the rear panel. The sleeve has come loose, but will not slide off. Amir couldn't quite remember and suggested pulling the knob off the front, but boy it's tight - doesn't feel right to pull that off. ??? Thanks.
Click to expand...

Nooo, don't pull on the knob! [Dives forward in slow motion, hands outstretched] There's no need to remove that and you may damage it.

The case slides right off. It's probably hanging onto the chassis tightly after expansion/contraction due to heat over time, or a few burrs, or both.

Do no prying or tapping other than with a rubber mallet, to avoid marring the case. Just grip it tightly, apply pressure, and give yourself lots of room for when it finally lets loose.
 
Tee hee. I did give it a hell of a tug! Amir warned me not to blame him in the event of disaster.

So, the sleeve slides backwards over the rear panel? Does the rear panel come off first? Do the two rear panel screws need to be removed (looks to me as though they do not)?

Looks as though it should be trivially straightforward - but is not!
 
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