Such as?I think they used mdf and screws because the lp12 is actually a cheap design, in original guise and it worked. There was loads of similarly lossy attachment methods they could have used at greater expense.
Such as?I think they used mdf and screws because the lp12 is actually a cheap design, in original guise and it worked. There was loads of similarly lossy attachment methods they could have used at greater expense.
I think I understand that you feel a pre-Cirkus LP12 with the black lined bearing was the most tuneful LP12. I’m not sure what the rest of your confuguration was before you moved on… Ekos2, Lingo 1, Trampolin or support?I agree, a more refined LP12 is a less tuneful LP12, it's fundamental bones can only be taken so far before the weaknesses of the 50+ year old design & dimension restrictions begin to reveal themselves as an overall inadequate foundation for the more modern and tighter tolerance upgrades.
Compliant glue layers.Such as?
How do you change the armboard? How do you align the armboard? The shop has to mess around with glue rather three screws? Glue? That's your answer?Compliant glue layers.
I think I understand that you feel a pre-Cirkus LP12 with the black lined bearing was the most tuneful LP12. I’m not sure what the rest of your confuguration was before you moved on… Ekos2, Lingo 1, Trampolin or support?
I suppose it’s up to the user to try their best to A/B and decide for themselves what they like best. I think I had a similar setup to yours and would say that the Trampolin and Cirkus on the original kite shaped subchassis was not to my liking and I actually removed the Trampolin and reverted back to my pre-Cirkus bearing for several years.
The Cirkus bearing was swapped back in after acquiring a Greenstreet Keel Klone and running it with my pre-Cirkus bearing for a few weeks. I became curious and installed the Cirkus bearing on the Greenstreet and all was well. My theory is that the Cirkus bearing required a better subchassis than the original stock steel version. That came later with the introduction of the Keel and later the Greenstreet subchassis.
I also think that when Digital was introduced newer gear became compromised, no more could gear be built to maximize an analog signal only, now it had to deal with both Digital & Analog signals and as a result was not the best it could be for both and probably even leaning towards making the Digital source sound better as that appeared to be the future and early digital needed all the help it could get. I like to think of my vintage Naim system as a last hurrah for analog, built to maximize the playback of an analog only front end, digital does not sound sit down in front of it enjoyable thru this vintage of a system. And as long as a newer Analog front end is built using the right playback fundamentals & priorities that system of old can continue to improve.I had an early '80s LP12 which sounded great with NAC 42/NAP 110 and Kans. As I moved to a bigger room and more modern amplification and speakers (twice - ouch) the bass bloom became more obvious, the sound too muddied and it took away from my listening pleasure. I recently swapped that for a GR which works beautifully with my Luxman and Proac D20R's.
Almost 30 years ago I had a similar LP12 with NAC 82/250 and a bunch of Naim PSUs. I fell for the Cirkus rhetoric and whilst it did sound cleaner and perhaps 'better' I noticed I just played records less and less.
As a consequence of the above I always felt the pre-Cirkus LP12's were suited to (designed for) older Naim kit and older, less fulsome speakers. It certainly reflects my limited experience. Is this a valid perception? If the LP12 worked with DBL's and Briks I guess my long standing conviction is off the mark here?
I agree, a more refined LP12 is a less tuneful LP12, it's fundamental bones can only be taken so far before the weaknesses of the 50+ year old design & dimension restrictions begin to reveal themselves as an overall inadequate foundation for the more modern and tighter tolerance upgrades.
Anyone ever inlaid a fluted plinth? Could be nice with some contrast in there.
I think I understand that you feel a pre-Cirkus LP12 with the black lined bearing was the most tuneful LP12. I’m not sure what the rest of your confuguration was before you moved on… Ekos2, Lingo 1, Trampolin or support?
I suppose it’s up to the user to try their best to A/B and decide for themselves what they like best. I think I had a similar setup to yours and would say that the Trampolin and Cirkus on the original kite shaped subchassis was not to my liking and I actually removed the Trampolin and reverted back to my pre-Cirkus bearing for several years.
The Cirkus bearing was swapped back in after acquiring a Greenstreet Keel Klone and running it with my pre-Cirkus bearing for a few weeks. I became curious and installed the Cirkus bearing on the Greenstreet and all was well. My theory is that the Cirkus bearing required a better subchassis than the original stock steel version. That came later with the introduction of the Keel and later the Greenstreet subchassis.
So the armboard would be glued to the sub-chassis at the factory? It would have tobe to ensure correct alignment. It would certainly sound different as the glue would act as a damping layer, something Linn clearly do not want. You would not be able to replace the armboard to change the arm type.@ MRPIG, how do you adjust the armboard on a Keel? You don't, it's one piece, as the compliant glued piece would be.
As an aside, we have held on to all our spare LP12 bits...
The original Pre-Cirkus bearing and sub-platter.
The original pressed-steel sub-chassis - still heavily damped with Blu-tack
The original Ittok LVII tonearm on the original arm-board.
The original AC motor, etc. etc. etc.
One day I will build another deck with these original bits and bobs and the only changes from our late 1980s deck will be an aftermarket PSU - probably VALHALLA Minos - and run it springless with AUDIOSILENTE silicone mushrooms.
I know it will sound killer - and probably as good a deck as anyone would ever need or want.
I would like to hear this deck but tried that Blu-tack soft sticky putty type stuff in experiments years ago -friends too- and while it at first it appeared to make the deck sound more full with even more weight it in turn also made the deck sound less tuneful, pushing it even further towards dead & colored sounding. This is also perhaps why many now prefer the mushrooms, because their less damped then the OEM springs, and if I was designing mushrooms I would like to experiment with even firmer elastomers rather than softer, but I wouldn't be surprised if the firmness of the current mushroom is just another convenient compromise.
I had a P10 before, the RP10 is a 10+ year old model that's been discontinued for many years.Sorry to go slightly off topic tpetsch
But reading more of this thread I noticed on your signature you have now got the NAIA ?
I know you had a RP10 before and loved it
What's your impressions of it ?
And what areas does it better the RP10 ....you obviously must love what it does as you have one...very nice combination with the Aura phonostage and Amphilion 2...the synergy must be impressive have read a few reviews on the net. But none from people on forums who own one
thanks Ian
I would like to hear this deck but tried that Blu-tack soft sticky putty type stuff in experiments years ago -friends too- and while it at first it appeared to make the deck sound more full with even more weight it in turn also made the deck sound less tuneful, pushing it even further towards dead & colored sounding. This is also perhaps why many now prefer the mushrooms, because their less damped then the OEM springs, and if I was designing mushrooms I would like to experiment with even firmer elastomers rather than softer, but I wouldn't be surprised if the firmness of the current mushroom is just another convenient compromise.
Last weekend I fitted some RS catalogue Taica-made stand off/ mushrooms (supposedly the same as the Audiosilente ones ) to a mate’s lp12and, having fitted some JohnR insoles to my own deck about a year ago was surprised to see how much more “ soft and pliable” the gel stand offs really are c/w the Insoles. Are the audiosilente ones of a similar softness to the Taica ones ? Or are/were there 3 alternatives ? I can only vouch for the good,IMHO, results I get from my Insoles which seem much less pliable. Or does the actual softness to the touch have nothing to do with it ? I read somewhere that JohnR had tried several grades of polymers for his insoles before deciding.