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Naim stock cables, any mileage in changing them?

The topology with Teddy Pardo PSUs is exactly the same as with a HiCap etc. They pass power but also signals as the PSU becomes the link between the Pre and Pwr amplifiers. The Teddy cables are much thinner than the Naim ones, but that does not mean that they are not well shielded and so the relative performance is difficult to assess.

I've recently bought a TeddyCap for my Supernait2 and installed it with a set of standard SNAIC cables (it was only supplied with a single 5 pin DIN lead) - Noticeable improvement on clarity, timing, detail but I really struggled with a feeling that the energy of the Supernait was being choked when compared with running it without the TeddyCap - was on the verge of returning the TeddyCap and decided to try the supplied 5 pin power cable - WOW night and day difference - all the energy/slam that was missing returned (with better control) in addition to the other benefits of the PS. Maybe it's a specific cable compatibility issue with TeddyCap but a definite performance difference with different power/signal cables.
 
I've recently bought a TeddyCap for my Supernait2 and installed it with a set of standard SNAIC cables (it was only supplied with a single 5 pin DIN lead) - Noticeable improvement on clarity, timing, detail but I really struggled with a feeling that the energy of the Supernait was being choked when compared with running it without the TeddyCap - was on the verge of returning the TeddyCap and decided to try the supplied 5 pin power cable - WOW night and day difference - all the energy/slam that was missing returned (with better control) in addition to the other benefits of the PS. Maybe it's a specific cable compatibility issue with TeddyCap but a definite performance difference with different power/signal cables.
The Teddy cables I had with my both my Teddycap and Dual Teddycap looked they where wrapped in white electricians tape and all three had to be re soldered at some point. I do agree that Naim cables are wildly overpriced but the Lavender and grey ones can usually be had on here or eBay for around £30 and are pretty good. I tried Hilines, AR Sound Lunar and some very expensive Black Chord ones and I'd say the Hiline gave the biggest change was it better than the stock Black or Lavender hard to say now.
 
The Teddy cables I had with my both my Teddycap and Dual Teddycap looked they where wrapped in white electricians tape and all three had to be re soldered at some point. I do agree that Naim cables are wildly overpriced but the Lavender and grey ones can usually be had on here or eBay for around £30 and are pretty good. I tried Hilines, AR Sound Lunar and some very expensive Black Chord ones and I'd say the Hiline gave the biggest change was it better than the stock Black or Lavender hard to say now.
The cable with my Teddycap is very narrow and wrapped in a tight fit black sleeve - as displayed on TP website
 
The cable with my Teddycap is very narrow and wrapped in a tight fit black sleeve - as displayed on TP website
Must be a newer thing, I had those Teddycaps 3 or more years ago. They where very narrow but wrapped in white tape of some sort.
 
I’ve been using WitchHat cables for some time with a NAC52 and Superline etc. Worth trying the Hatpin5 on the cable that connects the Pre to its power supply in addition to the Burndy.

I have absolutely no idea why this should make a difference, as I didn’t think it carried an audio signal, but it did (and for the better).

With naim power amps its hard to beat NACA5. I much preferred it to Phantom .....until I moved to Dynavector power amps whereupon I found the Phantom to outclass the NACA5. I guess horses for courses and all that.
 
I have tried several DIN cables from my NDS but settled on the Hiline as being the most ‘musical’ and least fatiguing. Having replaced all my other cables with a variety of Tellurium Qs I bought TQ Silver Diamond (phono) cables for the NDS - and these readily trumped the Hiline
 


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