I really don't agree. I know we are discussing tomatoes but the growing environment effects the final result and no bearing on variety.
Go back through gardening books over the past 40 years or so - they are full of comments about older varieties have flavour and modern ones are high yield with no flavour until something like 10 years ago. Now GQT produces discussions about what NEW varieties are especially good for flavour.
I can remember Pippa Greenwood, actually talking about tom's??????, reading the spiel for a new variety, must be all of 10 years ago, bursting out in laughter as the claim was that it had been bred for flavour - "why else would you want to buy or eat anything.........."
Moneymaker has been around for years upon years and I can remember the comments from the very early days of amateur growing - huge crop, no flavour.
I will refer back to my comment about carrots - supermarket ones now taste of carrot, and I can't believe it is down to change of terroir. Come to that, name me a grape variety with 5% the intensity of flavour of a carrot. It is down to the minimal flavour of grapes that the flavour of wine can be almost limitlessly manipulated, 99% of that nothing at all to do with the soil.