DIY Armageddon.
- Thread starter sq225917
- Start date
flashgo
DIY Practitioner
Finally got hold of my Linn dealer, and I now have all the bits on order motor, pulley, and 45rpm adapter. He hadn't heard of moving the motor in and out based on pulley size, but he did explain how to adjust the speed by tilting the motor. He also suggested using an old belt for 45rpm since it will get stretched. So everything makes sense now. 
So now while I'm waiting for everything, I'll see if I can repair and sell off my Lingo to pay for all of this.
So now while I'm waiting for everything, I'll see if I can repair and sell off my Lingo to pay for all of this.
stackowax
pfm Member
Finally got hold of my Linn dealer, and I now have all the bits on order motor, pulley, and 45rpm adapter. He hadn't heard of moving the motor in and out based on pulley size, but he did explain how to adjust the speed by tilting the motor. He also suggested using an old belt for 45rpm since it will get stretched. So everything makes sense now.
So now while I'm waiting for everything, I'll see if I can repair and sell off my Lingo to pay for all of this.
FYI, it is really easy to bend the flanges on the motor assembly when adjusting the speed. Go slow and be gentle!
dave
Plywood King
Done....
"8. Check the Position of the Motor
Check the position of the motor mounting bolts in the elongated slots in the top plate. These are the two bolts on the extreme right and left of the motor.
On current turntables, (50 Hz pulley, 21mm diameter) the motor mounting bolts should be in the middle of the adjustment range. While this can be accomplished by carefully aligning each of the two motor mounting screws in the middle of the slot provided, it is easier and far more accurate to simply have one motor mounting bolt at the extreme outside of its slot, and the other motor mounting bolt at the extreme inside of its slot.
In countries with 60 Hz mains supplies, older turntables may have a smaller (17 mm) diamter pulley. On these LP12s the motor should be in the outermost position. This is accomplished by having both motor mount bolts at the extreme outside of their slots.
Please note:
All new turntables are factory fitted with the larger, 50Hz pulley, and thus should have one motor mounting bolt at the extreme outside of its slot and the other motor mounting bolt at the extreme inside of its slot.
Both Lingo and Valhalla power Suplies use the 50Hz motor/pulley.
Motors with 60 Hz pulleys as supplied in the appropriate BASIK power supply kit and are not compatible with the Lingo or Valhalla power supply. Original Valhallas supplied to countries with 60 Hz mains were supplied 60 Hz Valhalla boards."
sq225917
Bit of this, bit of that
Anybody tried geddon on 33 1/3 and modified Valhalla for 45 with a switch ? Sort of Hercugeddon
Honestly there's nothing wrong with the 45rpm adaptor. The minor inconvenience is a small price to pay for the improved speed stability measurements over the Hercules and Valhala. I preferred the sound to the Lingo as well but wasn't able to measure the Lingo at the time.
I am in US and have one of the few LP 12 that were built with 60Hz pulley and 60 valhalla board. If I make geddon supply 60hz valhalla will gather the dust , I may as well change crystal and resistor and have 45 Rpm supply. I don't play 45 very often so absolute quality is not that relevant but it would be sort of elegant solution (if I figure out safe way to switch) and valhalla would be powered from geddon transformer not directly from the main.
YNWOAN
100% Analogue
What is the logic in using the Lingo with an isolation transformer - I doubt it will make any difference.
The Lingo is intentionally designed to significantly step down torque delivery once the platter is up to speed - it's design ethos is quite different to the Armageddon and not really compatible with high drag bearings.
flashgo
DIY Practitioner
Thanks, YNWOAN, I'm appreciating that this is a very different road than the one I've been on, and I'm looking forward to it!
Limono, you just need a one to one isolation transformer in the US. The Linn motor wants about 117VAC ± 5-10 volts at 60Hz (less at 50Hz).
Limono, you just need a one to one isolation transformer in the US. The Linn motor wants about 117VAC ± 5-10 volts at 60Hz (less at 50Hz).[/QUOTE]
My question was rather about quality of transformer stressed in some posts .
I wonder if regular EI transformer would not be better since it is not as wide band and won't couple all the hf main junk in secondary winding as effectively as toroid. Regards, L
My question was rather about quality of transformer stressed in some posts .
I wonder if regular EI transformer would not be better since it is not as wide band and won't couple all the hf main junk in secondary winding as effectively as toroid. Regards, L
flashgo
DIY Practitioner
The bits for my DIY Armageddon are starting to come in, and I could use a little advice. I picked up this little beauty on eBay. It's a 600VA medical isolation transformer which retails for $500:
My original plan was to pull the traffo and re-house, but now that I've got the box in the flesh, it seems like it could be the DIY Armageddon. An appropriate power cord could take the AC to inside the LP12 where there would be a little board with the phase shifting caps. Is there any reason to put the caps in the PSU vs. in the TT plinth?
Should the AC going into the plinth be shielded in some special way?
I'm also going to need a power switch to replace the Lingo switch mounted in the LP12. Any suggestions?
My original plan was to pull the traffo and re-house, but now that I've got the box in the flesh, it seems like it could be the DIY Armageddon. An appropriate power cord could take the AC to inside the LP12 where there would be a little board with the phase shifting caps. Is there any reason to put the caps in the PSU vs. in the TT plinth?
Should the AC going into the plinth be shielded in some special way?
I'm also going to need a power switch to replace the Lingo switch mounted in the LP12. Any suggestions?
looks very interesting, but I'm in ther UK and the postage is an additional $100 :-(
For $80 this has got to be a massive bargain, as after all an Armegeddon is nothing more than an isolation transformer with a 90deg phase shift to the AC current, perhaps with a bit of surge protection from a varistor and I see that you have 2 of those too... cheers for finding this one.
For $80 this has got to be a massive bargain, as after all an Armegeddon is nothing more than an isolation transformer with a 90deg phase shift to the AC current, perhaps with a bit of surge protection from a varistor and I see that you have 2 of those too... cheers for finding this one.