Cycling log - random events in the day of a cyclist
- Thread starter avole
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cutting42
Arrived at B4 Hacker Ergo
I used a CO2 canister for one to check it could do it for when out on a ride and I have a air compressor just on the other side of the garage that can provide the necessary oomph. Did not even try a track pump. Pressure is around 35psi per recommendation for a 47mm tyre. I usually run 50 in the other wheels.
I have a busy weekend but my wife leaves for a business trip Sunday midday so I might go for a short local ride to see how they are.
I have a busy weekend but my wife leaves for a business trip Sunday midday so I might go for a short local ride to see how they are.
bor
queue jumper
If the tyre doesn't inflate straight away with a track pump, and the valve core removed, I drive to the nearest petrol station and use the airline there.
You can add sealant later, as once the tyre bead has locked under the rim, you can easily re-inflate with a track pump.
The tyre will still deflate over the next few hours until the sealant does what sealant does, but after a few re-inflation cycles it should hold air reasonably consistenly.
I still need to add air every 2-3 weeks or so.
Don't forget to add more sealant every 6 months or so.
Just to add a few more points:
If you don't already have these, they are very useful to have:
1.Valve Core removal Tool - This is a tiny plastic key to unscrew and refit the valvecore
2.Presta to Schraeder Adapter - This allows you to top up using a car airline at petrol station if necessary.
3.Buy a dozen replacement presta valves. They cost peanuts and are good to have if the sealant blocks the vavle, or if the screw in bit gets bent.
4.Screw on Syringe to get sealant into tyre through valve. Just f@@@ing trtust me on this one.
You can add sealant later, as once the tyre bead has locked under the rim, you can easily re-inflate with a track pump.
The tyre will still deflate over the next few hours until the sealant does what sealant does, but after a few re-inflation cycles it should hold air reasonably consistenly.
I still need to add air every 2-3 weeks or so.
Don't forget to add more sealant every 6 months or so.
Just to add a few more points:
If you don't already have these, they are very useful to have:
1.Valve Core removal Tool - This is a tiny plastic key to unscrew and refit the valvecore
2.Presta to Schraeder Adapter - This allows you to top up using a car airline at petrol station if necessary.
3.Buy a dozen replacement presta valves. They cost peanuts and are good to have if the sealant blocks the vavle, or if the screw in bit gets bent.
4.Screw on Syringe to get sealant into tyre through valve. Just f@@@ing trtust me on this one.
glancaster
In the silicon vale
Just got knocked off my bike coming home. Car turned across my path. I managed to scrub a little speed off before the inevitable collision. The driver stopped, and gave me a lift home. I’m a bit shaken, nice bump on knee, but nothing seems broken. Bike damaged, not sure how badly yet. The handlebars are definitely bent.
Feeling a bit deflated this evening.
Feeling a bit deflated this evening.
vince rocker
pfm Member
Ouch! Hope you are OK glancaster. And most important, hope your bike is OK too!
glancaster
In the silicon vale
It’s Nottingham steel, so it bends rather than breaks. Even so, I fear the worst. It’s sentimental value more than the money (and the driver has assured me he will cover the cost, and seems like a decent guy). The bike, called Toby, is older than me, and he used to be my Dad’s.
Kind regards
- Garry
Kind regards
- Garry
glancaster
In the silicon vale
Thanks to all for the sympathy.
I am on the mend, and picked up the bike today from where I left it after the accident. The front took the brunt of the force, partly from hitting the car, partly from hitting the deck just afterwards. The fork is bent, probably the front brake too. The handlebars may be usable still - that looked bad initially just because one of the brake levers had twisted round the tube: once twisted back it looks a lot better. The rear of the bike looks OK. The frame isn't obviously bad, but I will need to check alignment I think, particularly around the head tube.
Possibly, to my amazement, the front wheel may have survived, which is especially good news as it is a modern aluminium one I only bought a few months ago. I will check whether it is really still true by test fitting it on another bike.
Anyone had a similar incident with a Raleigh steel bike of 1970s or similar vintage? If so, what did you do?
Kind regards
- Garry
I am on the mend, and picked up the bike today from where I left it after the accident. The front took the brunt of the force, partly from hitting the car, partly from hitting the deck just afterwards. The fork is bent, probably the front brake too. The handlebars may be usable still - that looked bad initially just because one of the brake levers had twisted round the tube: once twisted back it looks a lot better. The rear of the bike looks OK. The frame isn't obviously bad, but I will need to check alignment I think, particularly around the head tube.
Possibly, to my amazement, the front wheel may have survived, which is especially good news as it is a modern aluminium one I only bought a few months ago. I will check whether it is really still true by test fitting it on another bike.
Anyone had a similar incident with a Raleigh steel bike of 1970s or similar vintage? If so, what did you do?
Kind regards
- Garry
sq225917
Bit of this, bit of that
I ran into a skip on a 531 framed road bike many moons ago. Weirdly , it kinked the top tube not the down tube, due to the taper on the skip.
Took it to Dave Yates in Wallsend, he cut out the top tube, extracted the stubs from the lugs and brazed a new one in. I ended up sanding the new back to metal and clear coating it. Lasted another decade...
Took it to Dave Yates in Wallsend, he cut out the top tube, extracted the stubs from the lugs and brazed a new one in. I ended up sanding the new back to metal and clear coating it. Lasted another decade...
andrew d
pfm Member
glancaster Hope that you are able to have the bike repaired, do a google search for businesses that do steel repairs it in your area, given the sentimental value you need to get it back in proper nick. Don't buy any 'beyond economic repair nonsense.'
andrew d
pfm Member
Pure filth litters the lanes of Kent and Surrey. In two days I've had an avoidable off ( my fault ) very sore hip, lots of road rash and four, yes 4!!!! punctures! That's about as many in the last 24 months. My tyres (Conti 4000s 11 ) aren't really worn but thinking of either using a pair of Gatorskins that are gathering dust or getting some new Conti All Seasons.
glancaster
In the silicon vale
Having had the bike up on the stand, I can now see that there is some frame damage, and the fork is very bent. I have agreed a figure with the driver on the basis of replacement cost which both of us are happy with.
For Andrew's tyres, Gatorskins are the toughest, most puncture proof tyres I would consider for a normal road bike (Schwalbe Marathon Plus being very heavy, only in wider sizes, and more for hybrids or serious touring), but they do affect the feel of the bike and have high rolling resistance for a road tyre. When I ran them, I did occasionally still get punctures: on average once every few thousand miles, riding mostly roads and cycle tracks. But that's very good, I think. 4 Seasons (I guess that's what you mean) are not quite as extreme -- the next step down. 4000s have a reasonable amount of puncture protection, but major on being a fast, everyday, tyre.
If you would prefer something between 4 Seasons and 4000s, consider the Grand Prix GT. It's what I'd been running for the last few months on Toby. A lot nicer feel than Gatorskins. From what others say, it seems they are close to the All Seasons in toughness, but have significantly better rolling resistance -- closer to the 4000s in that respect. One of the pair I got was incredibly hard to fit though (the only puncture I've had with them was from the original fitting because I got a bit carried away), but that's the only downside I could find. I got them for about £25 each, which is fair.
Bike tyre comparison site: https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/ Unfortunately, doesn't list the Grand Prix GT, but has the other three.
Kind regards
- Garry
For Andrew's tyres, Gatorskins are the toughest, most puncture proof tyres I would consider for a normal road bike (Schwalbe Marathon Plus being very heavy, only in wider sizes, and more for hybrids or serious touring), but they do affect the feel of the bike and have high rolling resistance for a road tyre. When I ran them, I did occasionally still get punctures: on average once every few thousand miles, riding mostly roads and cycle tracks. But that's very good, I think. 4 Seasons (I guess that's what you mean) are not quite as extreme -- the next step down. 4000s have a reasonable amount of puncture protection, but major on being a fast, everyday, tyre.
If you would prefer something between 4 Seasons and 4000s, consider the Grand Prix GT. It's what I'd been running for the last few months on Toby. A lot nicer feel than Gatorskins. From what others say, it seems they are close to the All Seasons in toughness, but have significantly better rolling resistance -- closer to the 4000s in that respect. One of the pair I got was incredibly hard to fit though (the only puncture I've had with them was from the original fitting because I got a bit carried away), but that's the only downside I could find. I got them for about £25 each, which is fair.
Bike tyre comparison site: https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/ Unfortunately, doesn't list the Grand Prix GT, but has the other three.
Kind regards
- Garry
andrew d
pfm Member
I ordered some Conti 5000's from Wiggle last night and I've just had notification that they are ready to collect from a local Collect Point. They get great reviews and are recommended as a winter tyre due to puncture resistance and grip. I'll report back. I didn't fit the Gatorskins as I remembered how slow they were!
sean99
pfm Member
Just coming back to this thread - glad you're OK Garry - bikes are cheap and easily replaced compared to humans. I'd be wary of trying to reuse too much off the wrecked bike - better it goes to a metal recycler than risk a future failure (I'm thinking handlebars and front wheel in particular).
Agree Gatorskins are good for avoiding punctures.
Agree Gatorskins are good for avoiding punctures.
glancaster
In the silicon vale
According to the Rolling Resistance site, the Conti 5000 are faster than the 4000s you currently run but have less puncture protection (10 points in the centre, 4 points in the sidewall, versus 11 and 5 for the 4000s II). From what you wrote before, they might be a step in the opposite direction from where you wanted to go. I think when people say they have great puncture resistance there is an often unspoken qualification: 'for a very fast tyre' (there aren't many non-tubular tyres that beat them for rolling resistance).
You can always send back under the Distance Selling Regs if you change your mind, as long as they are unopened, although you may have to pay postage. Or just keep them for better weather, and pop on the Gatorskins you already have while its really foul.
Kind regards
- Garry
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