advertisement


Gas and Electricity Prices

My house still has an old gas fired system (the original system from when the house was built 25 years ago) with a cold water tank in the loft and a hot water tank in an airing cupboard which I'm assuming wouldn't be required if we switch to a gas fired combi boiler. A quick online quote only seems to be about £3000 to £3500 or so to do the replacement (as opposed to perhaps £50K+ to get get a workable air or ground source solution), which if correct seems like a no-brainer really. So I think that's going on the to-do list for later this year, even if we are only likely to keep this house for a few more years.
 
Ponty said:
If it’s 30 years old I’d be tempted to put in a new gas boiler whilst they are relatively cheap. The clueless govt are bound to whack higher taxes on gas boilers as they try to force people into heat pumps
Click to expand...

Can't see that happening, Ponty, despite the government's propensity to be irrational with energy. Maybe, if gov't timelines are kept to, there may be a rush to get gas boilers, which would in itself probably jack the prices.

mikemusic said:
Some of the rads may have air in them.
Click to expand...

Yes, good point but I still can't get over the fact that you bleed them cold, when warm air is more likely to be easier. I do bleed on occasion, but circulation of c/h water is not good. Maybe it's the pump, which again is older than 20 years, but is a bit inaccessible after a new kitchen was put in 15 years ago. This 'cool' rad. is at the furthest end of the system though.

Jim Audiomisc said:
it is winter I'm not keen on having days of the heating off, doors open, and workmen in and out the entire house!
Click to expand...

I empathise, having had this happen twice with builders and plumbers during very cold December/January situations; didn't have a front door for days !! Bit surprised that your pump can't be changed, but I'm sure a fishie plumber will be along to say that it can !
 
SteveG said:
My house still has an old gas fired system (the original system from when the house was built 25 years ago) with a cold water tank in the loft and a hot water tank in an airing cupboard which I'm assuming wouldn't be required if we switch to a gas fired combi boiler.
Click to expand...

Similar situation here, but I'm damned if I'll change to a combi. With a (so called) power shower (hot water from cylinder), an oft used airing cupboard and very large cylinder and a gravity-fed rad. in the bathroom (how about that for antiquity!), I can't see any benefits in changing horses, although a combi installation could be cheaper.
 
Mike Reed said:
Similar situation here, but I'm damned if I'll change to a combi. With a (so called) power shower (hot water from cylinder), an oft used airing cupboard and very large cylinder and a gravity-fed rad. in the bathroom (how about that for antiquity!), I can't see any benefits in changing horses, although a combi installation could be cheaper.
Click to expand...

Our existing boiler is now at the stage where spare parts are difficult to find so will need replaced next time something goes wrong with it anyway - so changing it now while I can still replace it with a gas boiler seems like a good idea.
 
I have had great success in my system by fitting automatic air bleed valves on the three radiators that up at the top of the house (4 floors here). They take seconds to install, cost bugger all and now no more manual bleeding! and pressure remains static!
 
Jim Audiomisc said:
I'm taking a particular interest in this thread as a result of our central heating system having failed a while ago! The pump has stopped and some people I know who have DIY'd their own systems say it *can* be changed (has isolation valves, and replacements are available). However two 'plumbers' in turn have said, "Nope, you need to change the entire system!"

Since we are 'shielding' and it is winter I'm not keen on having days of the heating off, doors open, and workmen in and out the entire house! They also said the new boiler had to go in a different place -> new kitchen as well, Cue more workmen, etc!!

So until spring we're on using a gas fire + some electric convectors as we decide what to do. Then in spring when it is warm and *maybe* less covid risk, can make a change. I did look at heat pumps but doubt they make sense for us. So given that gas prices will rise more than electric I am watching to see if the gap narrows. Then consider electric, perhaps with also solar PV and a 'house battery' to get in power on off-peak discount, etc. Be interested to hear info on these from others...
Click to expand...
Sounds like the right decision.
Best of luck
 
Mike Reed said:
Yes, good point but I still can't get over the fact that you bleed them cold, when warm air is more likely to be easier. I do bleed on occasion, but circulation of c/h water is not good. Maybe it's the pump, which again is older than 20 years, but is a bit inaccessible after a new kitchen was put in 15 years ago. This 'cool' rad. is at the furthest end of the system though.
Click to expand...
Didn't know that
I've only ever done that when the heating was on !
 
JensenHealey said:
I have had great success in my system by fitting automatic air bleed valves
Click to expand...

Have never heard of those, and they sound like a no-brainer but surely you've got to drain down, if only partially.

mikemusic said:
Didn't know that
I've only ever done that when the heating was on !
Click to expand...
Darth Vader said:
It may not be air and should be tested. If a rad is rusting from the inside it will create hydrogen gas.
Click to expand...

I wonder if some knowledgeable fishy can explain why one should bleed rad's when cold. D.V., this should be within your compass.

Interesting, but what would be the effects/consequences of this hydrogen gas in a rad?
 
Mike Reed said:
Have never heard of those, and they sound like a no-brainer but surely you've got to drain down, if only partially.
Click to expand...

No, just turn the rad off at each end should be enough, there may be a small bit of water when you remove the old bleed valve but a bit of paper towel at the ready should do.
 
My rads had air in them at the time I fitted them. They were so quick to fit - I just unscrewed the valve and put in the new. Done in seconds really.

Or isolate the rad at the bottom as you do the job as Matt above says.

I always did manual bleeding with the rads hot and running - can't see why you would choose to do it cold.
 
JensenHealey said:
I always did manual bleeding with the rads hot and running - can't see why you would choose to do it cold.
Click to expand...

https://www.bestheating.com/info/how-to-bleed-a-radiator/

Step 3 - TURN THE HEATING OFF AND ALLOW IT TO COOL DOWN.

It is important to turn the heating off and allow the radiators time to cool.

This is to make sure that the hot water in the radiators doesn’t burn you when you start to bleed the radiators.


So it's advice linked to safety, not efficacy.
 
Here's one way to save on all your bills, you won't be paying any after this:

Clipboard01.jpg


:eek::D
 
matt j said:
I'm not sure if it is true or not as I'm not a heating engineer, but I thought the reason was because if you do it with the pump running there is a chance it can draw air in through the bleed valve.
Click to expand...

Yes that was true on very old systems where the pump was on the return pipe back to the boiler.
 
The only reason I can think of for bleeding your rads with the system off and cold is to then be able to set the system pressure accurately after doing so. This is for sealed systems obviously. If you have an old gravity fed system it really doesn’t matter. I’m a heating engineer.
 
If you have to bleed your rads all the time there’s something wrong. If you have a sealed system (eg a combi) you shouldn’t have to bleed them at all. If it’s a gravity fed system you could have a problem with cold feed and vent positioning or drawing air in through a joint when the pump’s running. It’s a minefield but if there’s a problem just get it looked at by someone who knows what they’re doing rather than papering over the cracks with auto air vents etc. Gas prices are rising so invest in your heating system to make it as efficient and reliable as possible.
 
MikeMA said:
Agreed, but I think that one may be a spoof
Click to expand...

I wasn't referring to that specific one. I've been getting them pop up on the pfm banner ads for ages now, until I elected to opt out of Motex ads. The pictures are beyond belief; surely they must be breaking some rule or other?

To get back on topic, I recently had cause to contact our supplier OVO, because I was alarmed at the cost of the electricity. We had a smart meter fitted after OVO offered £50 if we had one, so now, obviously, we can see the cost on the gadget that sits on the kitchen side. Despite the recent price hike on Gas, the cost is still fairly modest compared to the electricity. We have always run our account in credit up to now and they give interest on the balance too., but currently, we are £40 in debt. The OVO agent assured me that our electricity usage is in line with our previous usage and that we are still paying enough into the account. We're on a dual fuel contract, 19.36p / kWh electricity, which he told us would be 32p/kWh if we weren't on a contract. The Gas is 3.26p/kWh. I need to check our usage to see what it is that's gobbling up the electricity.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


advertisement


Back
Top