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Yamaha NS1000M

I have a spare set of original stock crossovers somewhere inc speaker dials . My speakers still have everything original but the spring terminals are a bit of a faff. I've decided to put up with them rather than change anything
 
Is there anyone offering a decent crossover revamp?

When I revamped my Yammies I rebuilt the crossovers entirely, but kept all the same values. I detailed everything so others could do the same if they wanted. What I found was that 'upgrading' the capacitors made a small improvement but replacing the inductors made quite a noticeable uplift in sound quality.
 
Hi Mark,

I read your thread with envy, i am unable to carry out any sort of electronic work so am on the look out for someone who can. Fantastic job on the Yamaha's. Looking forward to getting my hands on some diffraction rings by the way.

Regards

Chris
 
RFC (Reference Fidelity Components) do this sort of work.

Sorry about profound delay but diffraction rings are on their way....
 
Thanks for the recommendations. Diffraction rings can wait until you're ready, plenty of other things on the go at the moment. Trying to figure out the maglev thing
 
I changed the mid range caps on the XO when I noticed a slight shrillness on some female vocalists and it did the trick. But why would changing inductors help as well? I'm not much of a techy.

OK I just got some theory, so the question is now why would replacing inductors give better sound and which brand would you recommend YNWOAN?
 
I would go with Jantzen wire wound https://www.hificollective.co.uk/inductors/jantzen_inductors.html which can be seen in many high-end speakers and are surprisingly reasonably priced (certainly compared to boutique capacitors). The primary reason they may give better sound is that, as standard, all the inductors have ferrite cores and at least two can be replaced by air cored coils. However, you should match both the inductance and the resistance and this can be done as Jantzen offer a massive range of values.
 
No, some are foil wound (copper or silver), for example. Look at the link I posted earlier and all will become clear.
 
Actually, I’ve thought about rebuilding my own external passive crossovers. Mostly because, now that I run the bass drivers active, I don’t actually need the bass section and I could use the extra space to use foil wound, air cored, inductors and even more boutique caps. The negative is that this would cost a whole lot more and may not fit in the space even with the bass elements removed. It may not sound any better either ;). Of course I could build the crossover into two external boxes rather than just one....
 
I've never, ever, understood the logic for foil-wound inductors: why would one choose a classic low-inductance/high-self-capacitance route to wind an inductor? Good for compact high-current DC solenoids but poor everywhere else: you'll simply get very low self-resonant frequency, i.e. poor ultimate rejection - and quite likely bad enough to see peaking in the audio range if you need a few mH - at a premium price.

I'd far rather go for large dia rwire, and a regular wire-wound, for comparable low-R. Air core for preference, either way.
 
Yes, I must admit the logic seems flawed: however, they are a popular choice, even among speaker manufacturers (rather than just hobbyists), where cost allows.
 
According to Jantzen and I quote
" Using copper foil offers improved dynamic headroom and a better surface for the travel of electrons (compared to standard type single
wire inductors" - no idea re. the difference but I bought my air core Wax Foils because they had the correct values for my speakers (Not Yams) and my original kit wire coils had iron cores. Mind you foils are a pain to fit ´cos they are bigger and I am having a new PCB made with a groove rather than a hole for soldering underneath.
 
I wouldn’t bother with a circuit board for crossovers. Unless they are very complex they are easy enough to just solder the components together with wire.
——-
I suppose foil gives a significantly greater surface area - is this good?
 
It's the classic route to low inductance!
Hence my comment above: you wind an inductor from flat foil, you end up with a large amount of distributed interwinding capacitance; this is a bad thing.

I might have to buy one and measure it/compare with more conventional units; it could be instructive... if only for me!
 
I've never been tempted by foil inductors, but only because they are a pain to terminate.
 


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