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Tannoy Monitor Golds

Sharp wood bit will do, or metal. Formica was always glued with contact adhesive but epoxy will do fine.
I like the industrial type cabs...........no messing and solid with good Tannoy heritage!
 
Alan Brown said:
Lovely, really lovely. There is a real understated style to them.
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They remind me of Large Advents.

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I went for a set of these, just very simple and utilitarian plastic feet similar to those you'd find on PA kit etc. I suspect once fitted they'll look like they are meant to be there. At the moment the centre of the driver is at around 75-76cm, my ears around 79-80cm, so I'm not convinced the height is an issue.
 
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Looking great, Tony. Glad your enjoying them.

Try and get them off the floor, even if it's just a inch. I found they worked much better that way.

All the best
Jo
 
Once I've plucked up the courage to drill the bottoms for feet changing them to a slightly taller set shouldn't be an issue. I just need to make sure they'll still slide as I need to be able to move them etc. I notice there are an inch thick set of feet very similar to the ones I've ordered so I'll maybe get a set of those too. The 15mm ones I've ordered will get the bases off the carpet as even with the underlay there isn't that much give. They'll make a right mess of the carpet to be honest!
 
Tony,

Got any more interesting large box sets that need buying & collecting? I think I need a prompt re-visit ;)

The Lockwood cabs look lovely.
 
Tony L said:
I went for a set of these, just very simple and utilitarian plastic feet similar to those you'd find on PA kit etc. I suspect once fitted they'll look like they are meant to be there. At the moment the centre of the driver is at around 75-76cm, my ears around 79-80cm, so I'm not convinced the height is an issue.
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How does that height differ from your other cabinets?
 
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John said:
How does that height differ from your other cabinets?
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Pretty much identical. It's not something I measured, but I doubt the driver centre is more than a cm or so different, and if so I'd not be able to say which way. The only dimension that is noticeably different is the cabinet depth (the Lockwoods are deeper). This additional depth (about 10cm IIRC) will give a fair bit more cabinet volume I guess given the front acreage.

Edit: I've just gone and measured as its interesting to know. The driver centre of the Yorks was 75.5cm, the Lockwoods are 77cm, so 1.5cm higher. Not much in it as I suspected.
 
A pack of 20mm m5 washers turned up today that I'd ordered from teh eBays. I bought them to go between the Tannoy's mounting bolts and driver basket rear as the ones I was using were m6 and far smaller in overall diameter and as such I'd not done them up tightly as they didn't fit properly. I installed the new washers and tightened them a good bit tighter than they were, but certainly not Linn/stupid tight. I screwed the backs back on and sat down to play a couple of CDs and things sounded surprisingly different and most certainly worse! This was not a good move! No fault of the washers, which are great, it's the tightness that was the issue. I've now got the eight bolts/washers spun-up gently until the bolt stops then just a quarter turn from there, i.e. enough that nothing could ever come loose, but not tight in the grand scheme of things and they are now sounding bloody superb. With the bolts too tight they gain a rather peaky character in the upper mid/low treble and sound a bit edgy, with them as I now have them set that big easy effortless Tannoy thing is here in abundance with a beautifully open and natural mid/top. I mention this as it is clearly a critical parameter and one worth playing with if one has similar speakers. I'm not alone in finding this, I noticed something similar on this rather interesting Tannoy/Leak blog. He's gone further and is using felt washers.

I've been very sceptical of tightening things too much after having a good chat with the sadly missed Tom Fletcher from Nottingham Analogue who firmly believed tight screw/bolt interfaces kill the sound in most things, certainly his decks sound very wrong if overtightened and wonderful if correctly installed. His view was his turntables should be 'tightened to the point they don't fall apart!'. It is the way I have my 301 installed in it's plinth.
 
Interesting, Tony.
It's easy to find nylon washers in conventional sizes if you want to try something standardised, cheap and compliant.
 
Tony L said:
A pack of 20mm m5 washers turned up today that I'd ordered from teh eBays. I screwed the backs back on and sat down to play a couple of CDs and things sounded surprisingly different and most certainly worse! This was not a good move! No fault of the washers, which are great, it's the tightness that was the issue.
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It is possible to distort the basket(yes even a big casting like the Golds) by over tightening. I always follow the car wheel approach, finger tight then do up nuts diagonally opposite plus quarter turn i.e. 12/6, 3/9 round the clock.

On another note, as they are getting on a bit I'd check the back panel for leaks and if necessary gasket the seal.

Glad you're smitten with the Lockwoods.
 
cooky1257 said:
It is possible to distort the basket(yes even a big casting like the Golds) by over tightening. I always follow the car wheel approach, finger tight then do up nuts diagonally opposite plus quarter turn i.e. 12/6, 3/9 round the clock.

On another note, as they are getting on a bit I'd check the back panel for leaks and if necessary gasket the seal.
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Yes, I always use that approach, kind of like tuning a snare drum... I also should point out that my 'tight' is not typical audio-nutter/Linn dealer tight, I'm always very conscious not to damage or deform anything. I've seen so much kit ruined by some idiotic notion of 'tight'. I guess one advantage of the fairly thin ply baffles used in stock Tannoy cabs and Lockwoords is if a little warped they will bend to the driver, not the other way round! The back panels have a draft-excluder type seal around them that looks pretty fresh.

PS I've just flung the Quad 34/306 back in to get another perspective on them. It's sounding very good on first listen, will have a better listen tonight.
 
How about the decoupling mountings used by KEF and other on some of their drive units. I wonder is this would make a difference.

I suppose in the LS3/5a there is a bit of decoupling of the B110 from the baffle by the PVC U shaped gasket.
 
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