Tonearm upgrade

[Mr Pig]

Did just see a Pro-Ject 9CC on Fleabay. From a Linn Majik. Any thoughts?

I wouldn't buy any ProJect arm but bear in mind that Linn sell the Akito as a much more expensive upgrade from the ProJect. And the Akito was introduced as an upgrade over the Basik Plus.

Have you tried the VM body instead of the K9 body? I have and I think it's better.

 

[ChrisS]

Did just see a Pro-Ject 9CC on Fleabay. From a Linn Majik. Any thoughts?

If you want an array of Linn geometry arms, take a look at lp12bits. They have several including various models of the Akito and a Jelco from a Majik. And if you are in the UK, they will part exchange your Basik Plus so you wouldn’t have to deal with selling it.

 

[colasblue]

Nooooo. It's a bit poor compared with a Rega anything.

I'm using a J7 modded RB250 (as I recommended) on a Rock/Lingo II with a konrapunkt b. Rega is absolutely the way to go if an adaptor is available and will fit. For little money it punches well above its weight and even if you go entry level at £100 ish used for the cheapest OEM RB250 it can be upgraded.

Mr Pig will hate this but I still have a BNIB RB3000 in a box waiting to be tried out on either or both of My Orbe and said Rock, but I just don't have any complaints about how either currently performs with the existing arm (Orbe has a Graham 2.0 + 0.2 upgrade so little surprise there).

 

[SONDEKNZ]

WAND PLUS!
WAND PLUS!
WAND PLUS!

 

[Locheeboy]

The Rega RB 300 is a faaar better arm than the Basik plus. Have a look for an RB 300 with Origin Live upgrades - internal/ external cabling, structural stub etc. this upgraded Rega verges on superstar arms
Heard a modded RB 300 on a Roksan Xerxes and a Sondek against a Linn Ittok…the Rega gubbed it. Even the stock Rega was the Ittok’s equal. This could be deck-dependant…These are, of course, my opinions…

 

[Nicks952]

So, perusing Fleabay late last night I came across a decent looking RB251 for £130. So I pushed the button. It already seems to have a new shiny metal counterweight, so just needs some new wires. Although I might try it out as it comes first. At this price I can just have a play and scratch the itch!
Thanks again for all your input.

 

[Nicks952]

WAND PLUS!
WAND PLUS!
WAND PLUS!

That does look good, but rather a lot more than my budget

 

[Nicks952]

Have you tried the VM body instead of the K9 body? I have and I think it's better.

That’s interesting. I kept with the K9 body because I read that it was a higher spec than the VM

 

[stuwils]

original 774 for me every time, do not worry about compliance and paddles and all that faf it will just work.

Rgds
Stuart

 

[Mr Pig]

That’s interesting. I kept with the K9 body because I read that it was a higher spec than the VM

I thought it would sound better myself but I tried them back to back and prefer the VM body. And I like the K9/18. There was slightly less detail but the sound was more natural and rounded. The K9 sounded harder and more clinical. I tried both elliptical and conical still.

 

[Fergus]

Hi all,

My Michell Focus One has requested that I chuck out the Linn Basik Plus and replace it with a better arm.
Cart is Linn K9 with new ML stylus.
so...
Original Mission 774 - always loved those
or
Rega 300, 220 ?

I assume these will be a good step up from the Basik.

Or any thoughts?

Cheers
Nick

Just yesterday I sold my Audio Origami PU7 to a friend which he will be using to replace his Audio Origami fettled RB250. If his AO RB250 is of any interest I can put you in touch with him, he is not a forum member.

SORRY I MISSED YOUR PURCHASE POST!!!

 

[Craig B]

That’s interesting. I kept with the K9 body because I read that it was a higher spec than the VM

Generator wise, K9 is actually lower spec. K5/K9/K18 employed the AT93/AT95E/etc. generator, which, although technically an A-T "Dual Magnet"/VM design, is limited to dual coils, one per channel, rather than A-T's quasi-torroidal 2-coils per channel system of VM series (and other makers 2 coils per channel in a cross configuration), plus these do not have the coils shielded from one another between the channels as the VM series do. These aspects limit both ultimate potential channel separation and crosstalk, which have always been better on the VM series models.

Comparing the cheapest VM series VM510CB to the most expensive AT-VM95 series AT-VM95SH, A-T list channel separation at 25dB vs. 23dB respectively. May not seem like a lot but this is the bonded conical at the bottom of one range vs. the top of the range Shibata of the other.

 

[Craig B]

So, perusing Fleabay late last night I came across a decent looking RB251 for £130. So I pushed the button. It already seems to have a new shiny metal counterweight, so just needs some new wires. Although I might try it out as it comes first. At this price I can just have a play and scratch the itch!
Thanks again for all your input.

Be aware that RB251 has Rega's 3 x screw mounting arrangement. Unless you are equipped to accurately drill holes in alloy plate, you may want to broaden your search for a more compatible (than RB250/RB300/etc.) Rega to SME mounting plate/adapter.

 

[Big John]

The Focus originally used a Michell Unipivot tonearm so If you can do fiddly and have good manual dexterity

Hadcock GH 242 unipivot tonearm complete with packaging and accessories | eBay

Tested and fully operational.

www.ebay.co.uk

Or

rare KEITH MONKS LABORATORY 9" UNIPIVOT TONEARM - 1970s classic | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for rare KEITH MONKS LABORATORY 9" UNIPIVOT TONEARM - 1970s classic at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products.

www.ebay.co.uk

There's also alot of Rega RB200, 250, 300 etc available.

As Craig points out above perhaps sticking to a tonearm that uses Linn geometry is going to be alot more simple.

I have had my Michell badged Hydraulic Reference turntable which is also un-sprung It was given to me as a present in 1973 it came with an SME 3009, for several years it had a Syrinx PU2 with mass ring.
20+ years ago my friend Len Gregory suggested & sold me Hadcock GH242 Silver Plus i.e. fitted with Lens pure silver phono leads, after an upgrade that I suggested to Len that George Hadcock adopted I contacted John Choong who made me an XTC low slung counterweight.
The GH242sp worked perfectly with several Cartridgeman (Len Gregory) moving iron Musicmakers & stunningly with an MI Musicmaster since Len's demise, It is now fitted working brilliantly with a Hana ML a heavier moving coil

 

[Nicks952]

Be aware that RB251 has Rega's 3 x screw mounting arrangement. Unless you are equipped to accurately drill holes in alloy plate, you may want to broaden your search for a more compatible (than RB250/RB300/etc.) Rega to SME mounting plate/adapter.

No worries. I’ve ordered a 3x60mm perspex ring with a 25mm hole, which I’ll drill to the correct mounting points. Only costs a fiver, so I can afford a mistake or two.
Is there a flexible VTA adjuster for these, or am I limited to the multi-level shim thingy?

 

[Darren L]

Thanks for input everyone! The deck is pre-cut for an SME fitting.

In that case go for the Hadcock!

I have had my Michell badged Hydraulic Reference turntable which is also un-sprung It was given to me as a present in 1973 it came with an SME 3009, for several years it had a Syrinx PU2 with mass ring.
20+ years ago my friend Len Gregory suggested & sold me Hadcock GH242 Silver Plus i.e. fitted with Lens pure silver phono leads, after an upgrade that I suggested to Len that George Hadcock adopted I contacted John Choong who made me an XTC low slung counterweight.
The GH242sp worked perfectly with several Cartridgeman (Len Gregory) moving iron Musicmakers & stunningly with an MI Musicmaster since Len's demise, It is now fitted working brilliantly with a Hana ML a heavier moving coil

Similarly I've been using Hadcock242se tonearms off and on for the past 20 -25 years, I've had it mounted on an original Rega Planar (wood surround) , Thorens TD160B mk2, STD 305M, Gyrodec (AC) , Gyro SE (DC) , NA Hyperspace and most recently NA Dais, it has seen off alot of similarly priced tonearms and a couple of more expensive ones.

 

[Nicks952]

BTW. Really appreciating all the input. Keep it coming! If the 251 doesn’t do it for me I can always flog it and try something else
It’s just fun trying this stuff.

 

[Nicks952]

How does the Hadock 228 compare to the 242?

 

[Big John]

BTW. Really appreciating all the input. Keep it coming! If the 251 doesn’t do it for me I can always flog it and try something else
It’s just fun trying this stuff.

Nicks952
If you do buy a Hadcock GH242 at some stage, make sure you get the later one with a rigid counterweight stub from the bearing housing the earlier flexible one tends to droop altering tracking weight as the counterweights start to slide. The later rigid one is more user friendly it also sounds better which is what I told Len & George would be the case & was proved correct.

I told Len I was contemplating removing the flexible stub & fitting a stainless steel rod probably using araldite to fix it in however George sent me the updated bearing with rigid stub as a thank you.

The XTC lower slung counterweight using the smaller of the 2 original counterweights for fine tracking weight adjustment improved an already great arm making it sound better still & even easier to set up.

I also use Audio Origami damping fluid this is silicon oil which apparently is twice as thick as water, I use a vape syringe & large needle to insert in to the well surrounding the pin that the bearing housing sits on the housing has a cone that dips into the fluid. I use it simply because it works though George was not a fan he accepted that not all setups are identical so included the option.

 

[RichShortland]

For me this is easy - if Rega-spec mounting is an option and it is in budget I'd go for an Origin Live Onyx.
I've just added one to my Lenco PTP L75 and it's superb - much better than anything I've used before which includes an Akito and Roksan Nima...