advertisement


Time for a motorbike list

Electric only. The main problem is when the solenoid that engages the pinion isn't lubricated, and the pinion gets eaten. There's also a shaft that turns directly in the side cover which can wear,.but a bronze bush or bearing sorts that.

The GB500TT has kickstart and electric, and looks nice too.

Thanks, I once had a Ducati 860 with a horror electric starter, The mechanism if used created metal particle which shorted out the stator/rotor system, affecting the big end as well. It had a kick-starter fortunately. I just missed the Commando starter problems with an earlier '73 model, another attempt at early self starters with big cylinders.
 
Suzuki X1
Kawasaki KH250
Suzuki GS550
Suzuki GS1000
Yamaha FJ1100
Yamaha 250 and 350 LC
Suzuki GT550
A few R1s
A few GSXR1000s
Ducati 600 Pantah and 900
MV Agusta F3
Bimota V-Due

There's a man who likes his triples :)

Great roll-call of bikes there Dandy.
 
The V-Due did work, 750 power, 250 weight. I had the “final evolution” version that was track only.

MfpYscI.jpg


vzRisCx.jpg
 
Amazing machines.

I had an NS400R when these were released and, using man-maths, almost convinced my self it would be worth the financial hit. Unfortunately the press at the time reported them being a little ‘strange’ in the power delivery pointing at an under-developed FI system.
Third part companies offered swaps to a dellorto carb system that, whilst down on power, actually allowed the engine to run smoothly.

This is just what I read at the time. I’ve never actually ridden one. Last I heard Aprilia had teamed up with Orbital or Optimum (can’t remember who exactly) so sort the issues.

Looks like your Evo model finally solved it.
 
I should have said a few KH250s too, had 4 at one time, 3 I rebuilt from basket cases. Probably my favourite real-World bike
 
I should have said a few KH250s too, had 4 at one time, 3 I rebuilt from basket cases. Probably my favourite real-World bike
A friend of mine recently completed a resto of the 350 (380?) version of this, then sold it for a very healthy price.
 
Early ones came in 350 versions, later ones were 400s - with a slightly less peaky, more torquey power delivery. The only 380 2-stroke I know was the Suzuki triple.

The Kwack triples were objects of total lust for me as a teenager growing up - but the stats in the bike mags, and all conquering TZs in the local road-races sent all us spotty long-haired, Joey Dunlop wannabes down the RD250 Yam route instead.
 
Well, it took a while, but I finally managed to get the hold of a reasonably decent FXR:

zbqRKHyh.jpg



Good engine - rebuilt, but as it's over 30 years old, and has lived a little, no big deal - the all-important mid-pegs, and twin disks up front. Bit of work yet to remove the last of the cowboy/carnival-ride aesthetic, de-chrome it to a degree and change the bars, but it did come with a set of mag wheels thrown into the deal, which will be fitted (as soon as I get a jack I trust to raise the thing and support it safely :))

OjlqjOUl.jpg


Riding experience is 'different'. Thunders along magnificently. Will hold a steady 90 units of velocity all day..allegedly (albeit the ergo isn't particularly suited to such endeavours) and surprisingly steers quite well too. Admittedly the overall dynamics, and particularly the braking, are not quite what you would call in 675 Daytona territory.

Ah'm reet chuffed I am tho' :)
 
Work has commenced on the FXR. Making good progress - got the wheels and brake disks swapped, and am in the process of changing the bars for a more ergonomic setup.

One of the things I need to do (because of the shape of the new bars and handlebar controls) is to run the wiring inside the bars. First step is disconnect all of the bar-loom electrical connections in the headlamp shell, and thread everything up through the bars to the switchgear location.

A quick look inside the headlamp where all the connections are made threw up this:

fNLpv4Ah.jpg


Hard to see, but clearly somebody's been in there before, and there is a rag-tag mix of taped joins and spade connectors. Doesn't really look that busy from this side - but there's a lot more in terms of wiring and connections in there than is evident at first sight. Becomes a little clearer when you look round the back of the headlamp shell. There's a lot going on, and not a whole amount of extra wire length, or space to work with either:

6QOpPfwh.jpg




The switch gear must have been changed at some stage, as none of the connections are original, and virtually ever wire mates with a different coloured one in the main loom. There are two sets of 7 wires coming in on each side. I need to disconnect the left and right sub-looms going back to the switch gear, run everything through the bars, and then reconnect.

So basically what I'm wondering is this.

- When I tackle the switch wiring, should I switch to all new spade connectors, bullet connectors, or go instead with straight wire to wire twisted (or soldered) with heat-shrink - so all those connections at least are common, and new ?

- And if I get to that point - should I stop at the switch-wiring, or go whole hog and try to address all of the other joints while I'm in there ?

Any thoughts or advice much appreciated.

Alan
 
That's a dog's dinner. I would use bullets or spades ( your choice) and return the colours to original for future easier fault finding. I wouldn't solder and sleeve, it's a lot of work and the rest boys don't do it that way for good reasons, I imagine.
 
Yeah - it really is a dog's dinner :)

A mixture of 2,3 and 4-way soldered and unsoldered sleeve joints, and bullet joints, joining what looks like pieces of at least 3 different wiring looms together. Pulled it all out, but did have the wit to label and sketch what's what, to give me a fighting chance of marrying it up with an original wiring diagram at some stage.

HEASI8Al.jpg


Not relishing the prospect for the detective work to come :(

As an aside, found this in the headlamp shell, set into a little bracket, so looks like it might have been there from the factory back in 1990. Wondering what it is - alarm / immobiliser component of some sort perhaps ?

A6QoJ1xl.jpg


Inside:

v17sq47l.jpg
 
Some kind of crude movement sensor? It's only two-terminal, but has some surface-mount electronics. a nd a soldr tab that looks like it was in contact with the cap. Could be that a monitored current that goes wild if the 'spring' shorts against the shell, triggers an alarm box, sort of thing (have you found other boxes/ things you didn't expect in your travails around the loom?)

Have fun with it all!
 
Haven't yet.
Could the spring thing be an aerial device for a remote on/off fob - am thinking alarm or immobiliser ?
 
Yeah - it really is a dog's dinner :)

A mixture of 2,3 and 4-way soldered and unsoldered sleeve joints, and bullet joints, joining what looks like pieces of at least 3 different wiring looms together. Pulled it all out, but did have the wit to label and sketch what's what, to give me a fighting chance of marrying it up with an original wiring diagram at some stage.

HEASI8Al.jpg


Not relishing the prospect for the detective work to come :(

As an aside, found this in the headlamp shell, set into a little bracket, so looks like it might have been there from the factory back in 1990. Wondering what it is - alarm / immobiliser component of some sort perhaps ?

A6QoJ1xl.jpg


Inside:

v17sq47l.jpg
That's a right f*ing porridge. If it's all part of a sub loom I'd be thinking so replacing the whole sodding lot. It can't be that complicated, is it pre ECU and injection?
 
I know, I know ffs man :)

It's a 1990 bike - carb (singular) and an old-fashioned electronic ignition. Looking at it, there's a big wrapped bundle of wires that all terminate just below the handlebars. That has to be the original loom. After that, there's a left and right section for each cluster of handlebar controls, a feed to four idiot lights on the dash, plus feeds out to the indicators and headlamp bulbs.

The problem is the amount of cross-wiring and general mess of connections between the main loom and the other elements mentioned. I'm inclined at this stage to strip it back to the main loom and the two sub-looms for the handlebar switch gear - then bin all of the excess cross-wiring stuff and rewire from there.

A much bigger job than I imagined working out what's needed wiring-wise for sure, but I'm much too old and intolerant to put up with that kind of bodging and workmanship these days :)
 
Alan , If you havent already got one these are invaluable when it comes to electrics and testing ,

What he does not tell you in the video is the if you introduce a live into a earth the probe has a trip button that pops out so no burnt out wires, When I was in the motor trade I also fitted car alarms and tow bars , They are woth the money . Other makes are available other than Snap On .
 


advertisement


Back
Top