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The Hypex nCore build thread

Thanks. This thread is very helpful indeed!

In reviewing pictures of others' builds I notice it is common to use crimps for the IEC & on/off switch, but the binding post & XLR connections are more commonly soldered. What is the reason for this? Thanks again.
 
Thanks. This thread is very helpful indeed!

In reviewing pictures of others' builds I notice it is common to use crimps for the IEC & on/off switch, but the binding post & XLR connections are more commonly soldered. What is the reason for this? Thanks again.

I soldered the leads to my IEC, mainly because I had no crimps of the correct size. :D

I took the speaker cable out through a compression gland, as it is only 30Cm. why bother with extra connectors ?.
 
The Ghent cases arrived today. If weight equals quality they are fine cases indeed. They do look very nice, but some assembly instructions would have been appreciated. I'm sure I'll figure it out.
 
In reviewing pictures of others' builds I notice it is common to use crimps for the IEC & on/off switch, but the binding post & XLR connections are more commonly soldered. What is the reason for this? Thanks again.

I believe it's a safety thing. The IEC connections carry a helluva lot of current in the event of a short, potentially enough to melt solder connections. Were such a thing to occur, crimped connections would remain intact; soldered connections could come loose and cause more havoc or potentially short mains electricity to the case of the amp, which could injure or kill you.

Always crimp. You could crimp then solder, but never just solder. Also never solder then crimp - in event of a meltdown, the connection could still come loose.
 
I believe it's a safety thing. The IEC connections carry a helluva lot of current in the event of a short, potentially enough to melt solder connections. Were such a thing to occur, crimped connections would remain intact; soldered connections could come loose and cause more havoc or potentially short mains electricity to the case of the amp, which could injure or kill you.

Always crimp. You could crimp then solder, but never just solder. Also never solder then crimp - in event of a meltdown, the connection could still come loose.

Not just a short, if there's resistance in the connection it will create heat also.
 
Completed my build this morning. Tested them & they work fine. Dead silent, no hum. Did get a bad LED & will ask Ghent for a replacement. Now looking for a suitable balanced preamp.

Thanks to all posters here. You guys were my instructions!
 
Completed my build this morning. Tested them & they work fine. Dead silent, no hum. Did get a bad LED & will ask Ghent for a replacement. Now looking for a suitable balanced preamp.

Thanks to all posters here. You guys were my instructions!

Congratulations! I'm still very happy with mine - sure you will be too. What other equipment will you be using it with (DAC, speakers, etc...)?
 
Firstly, thanks to everyone here for such helpful contributions and detailed instructions and images. Big help as I undertook the first amp build today

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Only a couple of minor problems, first being the speaker connections on the nc400 board, which are hideous to work with. I ended up using braided Kimber cable to cut out interference, and avoided having the cables coming out facing each other, as this was proving too problematic with anything above bell wire.

Am on the hunt for some more practical cable to fix the issue on my next iteration. Will also improve the spade connectors and hear shrinking on the IEC connector.

Second issue was the LED light from Ghent was missing the metal mounting plate. I have improvised a temporary adhesive for now.

On to the next amp. Can't wait to get these things fired up.
 
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The NCores are up and running. Going to let them settle in for a bit before I pass judgement. So far they sound very clean and wide open, with plenty of bass extension.

I didn't burn the house down or electrocute myself, so pretty successful all round.
 
I thought they were sounding pretty good, but wasn't happy with the job I'd done on the speaker terminals, so opened them up again last weekend to improve things.

Tightly twisted the speaker cabling, and terminated the ends more cleanly - this time completely eliminating any loops, and redid all the mains connections with pure copper spades.

The above tweaks, combined with giving the amps a week or two to settle in has improved things greatly.

In character, they are not a million miles away from the Bel Canto 500s. Very clean, open, detailed and powerful. If anything I'd say they are digging deeper in terms of bass output, and in detail generally. It's a significant improvement, and it's been an enjoyable process putting them together.

The cash I'll make from selling the BC's will now fund an SME V, so, there's another plus.
 
Can the phono stage be one box please?

Not really. They are not small boards,about 7"x4" each.
There are four boards at that size. You then need to isolate the boards from both heat and electronic artifacts ( each other ).It would end up a pretty large one box solution.
That being said,mine is housed in just two boxes but I run the simpler toroid and caps power supply.
 
Tightly twisted the speaker cabling, and terminated the ends more cleanly - this time completely eliminating any loops, and redid all the mains connections with pure copper spades.

I had to use some crappy quality spades as it was all that was available to me, I wonder if I should redo with copper. Maybe someday but can't be bothered right now. Can we see a pic of your new wiring etc?

On another note, seeing as it's a slow Sunday, I'm interested what speakers people are using with their Ncores. My understanding is the Ncores are very flexible indeed about working with a wide range of speakers, but just curious what speakers people have found to work well with them. I'm using ATC SCM-11s, but don't have anything to compare to.
 
Mine are doing an excellent job of driving PMC Ob1i with ease. I think they'd do a great job no matter what you threw at them.
 
I wouldn't worry about the quality of the spades for the mains connections so long as they are sufficiently rated. I only used gold plated due to them being resistant to oxidation.

Mine are driving ATC SCM40s.
 


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