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Squeezebox 3 mods thread

hacker

Delicious and nutritious
The SB3 is an awesome machine, so much so that it's replacing my super-modded CD3.5. (shock, horror!)

As it stands, the SB is powered from a 5V/2A wallwart and sounds pretty good. Surprisingly good in fact. Ok, it's not as refined, detailed, open or dynamic as the 3.5, but with a little attention I think it could be pretty amazing.

With an already very low level of jitter ( ~ 65ps), and given that I don't have an external DAC, I'm tempted to ignore digital/reclocking options for now. The analog stuff, however, is gagging to be changed. First up, the DAC.

The factory standard DAC is the Burr Brown PCM1748E (although there are some reports of people having a KE fitted at the factory) which is the little brother of the PCM1748KE. Main differences are THD-N levels of 0.003% and 0.002% respectively, a SNR of 100dB and 106dB respectively and a dynamic range of 100dB and 106dB respectively.

Looking at the PCM1748 datasheet gives some idea of possible mods. Based on my noodlings with the CD3.5's DAC (based entirely on Martin Clark's Acoustica pages) I reckon the first things to do would be to upgrade the power and decoupling on the DAC.

The datasheet recommends that the digital (Vdd) supply is derived via linear regulator from the analog (Vcc) supply. Analog rail is 5V, digital is 3.3V. I reckon that I could leave the 5V / regulator / 3.3V rail in place, but break the 5V link to the Vcc pin. That would allow fitment of a Flea for the analog rails; I did this in my CD3.5 and the difference is not subtle... in the SB3 I would imagine that breaking the noisy link between digital/analog will have even more sonic benefit.

The second thing that jumps out at me is that the PCM1748 has a common voltage pin (pin 10) brought out for decoupling that is biased to Vcc/2. The typical application here is to use a 10uf tant and I wonder if replacing that with a big oscon would reap benefits. Alternatively, adding a 0.1u film in parallel may improve things slightly.

The analog output opamp is a NJM2041. It sits between the DAC and the output RCA sockets and would appear to add some gain in addition to buffering. Replacing this with something like an AD8620 should, in theory, have sonic gains. There may be some issue with regard to phase reversal here, but I'd need to check. Some posts on the internet suggest bypassing the opamp entirely, removing it from the SB3 but this leads to a phase reversal and a drop in output power, giving approx 1V pk-pk. My primary concern with this mod is that the DAC may not be happy driving the buffer/TA stages of my preamps via a lengthy, capacative interconnect and, depending on input impedance of whichever pre I use (62, starfish, ad815) the performance could drop. I'm thinking that maybe building a little buffer circuit from opa627s or similar high-performace opamps could be a good option here.

Output coupling caps are 10u SMD jobbies. Ugh. Whilst fiddly, it may be possible to replace these with something a little nicer, perhaps bc128s or (if I can make 'em fit) some film caps. This warrants investigations I reckon.

Has anyone done these or other mods? Any input greatly appreciated - hopefully we can take this thread to interesting places :)

Cheers,
Carl
 
Carl,
I suggest digging through the forum at the Slim Devices web site. Andy Weekes (and several others) have done a variety of things to their SBs, including some of what you describe. There are dozens of posts with details on what they've done. There are also companies who have made a business out of modding various parts of the SB3. Some users report great improvements.

One thing many SB3 owners have done, (including me), is to replace the stock SMPS wall wart with a linear supply. Fairly cheap/easy to do, and smooths out the upper end considerably and brings a more natural tonal balance. I built a linear PSU based on an ALWSR and it made an amazing improvement for not much effort/cashish.

I agree the SB3 is an awesome thing. I plan to get a Transporter someday soon, as much for the dial on the front as the improved sound quality.

M
 
All sounds like good ideas Carl...esp the psu stuff. A quick look at the datasheet suggests the noise floor depends slightly on the analogue supply voltage (graphs bottom of P.6)
 
does this man ever stop fiddling around with kit?

Lol, more accurately asked: do I ever finish a project? ;)

I built a linear PSU based on an ALWSR and it made an amazing improvement for not much effort/cashish.

I was wondering about that and, indeed, I've got a spare SR board set aside for this very purpose, but worried about the ability of ALWSR to provide enough current. The manual says "at least 500mA" but I reckon I'm going to need at least 1A, maybe more? The wallwart says 5V/2A... Have you had any problems with it?

All sounds like good ideas Carl...esp the psu stuff. A quick look at the datasheet suggests the noise floor depends slightly on the analogue supply voltage (graphs bottom of P.6)

I'll check it out, thanks Martin.
 
My PSU gets warm, but with good heatsinking it isn't a problem. The SR can provide up to 1.5A, the SB needs 1A. Mine's just a simple replacement for the wall wart. If you want to get complex, you can build separate SRs for the three separate supplies inside the SB. (It converts the 5 to 3.3, 9, and 14 I think, could be wrong about the exact values). That requires taking the thing apart, which I didn't have time/desire to do. It sounds pretty good now.

M
 
Glad somebody started a thread modding these:)

I've done a few things to mine, nothing drastic yet just playing about with it.
So far

ALW Super reg set to 5v using a LM1084 Pre-reg, I tried one of the 4-pole T-nets out of my UCD to try out feeding the ALW SR and was very pleased with the results so will be ordering a couple more of those.

My SB3 already has the PCM1748KE, I replaced the 1uf smd lytic biasing the output op-amp to a 1uf MKS.
Replaced the op-amp to AD8066.
Changed the 330pf cap across the op-amps fb resistors to 33pf
Replaced the dac decoupling caps to ZA's.
Replaced the 4 x coupling caps to 10uf BC128's

hardly original but wanted to get an idea what some simple mods can do, obviously lots of things to try out yet.
So far its not sounding bad
 
Exactly the plan: I fancy an external PSU first, it's a quick and easy upgrade.

After that, I'll be stripping it and seperately powering the individual power rails with their own regulators instead of regenerating the higher voltages from the 5V supply. I guess I'll need to put some kind of multi-way socket on the back and house the psu off-board... I'll figure all that out later :)

Good to know about the SR and the 1.5A capability though. I'll make sure it's clamped firmly to the chassis of the PSU box.

Cheers,
Carl
 
You may need more than the chassis, I did. I ended up with a sink inside and some vent holes drilled around it to keep things cool. Mine is built in an alum extrusion, about 8" long by 4" wide. W/o the sink, the case got pretty hot to the touch.

I can't seem to locate a pic, but will post as soon as I find one.

M
 
Yes, I have quite a meaty heatsink on mine, I use a 9v AC transformer so the voltage drop isn't too high.
A detailed schematic would be soo much help, I've found a simple one for the SB2 but its not that detailed.
As far as I can see in the SB3 the 3.3v is run run direct from the input 5v supply and the 5v and 9v reg for the Dac/op-amp are run from the internal switcher.
I heard that some people have removed the 5v reg for the dac and then run the dacs supply straight from the main 5v input so bypassing the switcher
 
Nice case you've got for it - where did you get it from? That would look lovely on my rack :)
 
I wouldn't expect to get SB+ performance but it would be nice to see what we can get out of our units.
Its all good fun:)
 
Think I got the case from Newark InOne (www.newark.com), which appears to be the US arm/version of Farnell? It was a bugger to fit the coil and everything inside, as it's a solid extrusion, not split. A bit like building a boat in a bottle, but a little planning made it work out OK.

M
 
Hacker, perhaps I should put you on that list for trying the modded DEQ after all?

If I were you I would re-clock the digital output with a Flea, make a nicer PSU with a torroidal and some big caps and then just use a modded DEQ, as I mentioned to you before, you are welcome to try it out. I know it has been compared favourably to the SB+ so that should say something.
 
Be nice to see what we can get out of the SB's internal dac though first, these units are now very popular
 


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