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Speakers: MUN17-3W

Thanks gents - I didn't understand some of the more technical bits above but I think I could follow the steps below -

Shield the foils just incase I'm ever in an earthquake scenario.

Test the output per box on an old driver. I assume there's no chance of damaging an amplifier by turning it on with no load on the output?

I will indeed mark up the outputs to make it clear which is which... Until that's done I can tell by picking them up - the mid unit is about 10 times heavier!
 
fraser. said:
Thanks gents - I didn't understand some of the more technical bits above but I think I could follow the steps below -

Shield the foils just incase I'm ever in an earthquake scenario.

Test the output per box on an old driver. I assume there's no chance of damaging an amplifier by turning it on with no load on the output?

I will indeed mark up the outputs to make it clear which is which... Until that's done I can tell by picking them up - the mid unit is about 10 times heavier!
Click to expand...


I left as much of the tinned copper as possible on the foil inductors, in case you want to upgrade the caps. It is a bit untidy. I had thought of hot melt gluing them into place, but it’s a faff to remove if you want to make changes.

(For the info of the innocent bystanders; the large gaps and extra holes are to accommodate the fancy caps in Troels’ super-duper version).

The only type of amps that don’t like no-load are valve amps. Even then it’s mainly the low/zero feedback ones which are prone to damage (due to insulation breakdown in the o/p transformers if the secondary voltage spikes).
 
Given my own experience with Troels designs I expect you will enjoy them hugely. You can easily tailor the top end altering resistor values to taste.

I abandoned a TL2 project as the guy who was going to help with the cabinets became very ill, but I have built a few in the past and still have a pair of his 164/2 which are superb given outlay.
 
I mentioned a while ago I'd changed my mind about the design of the bass cabinets, and that's only become clearer in the last few weeks. Something about the dimensions of the valchromat insert vs the driver itself just doesn't look correct to my eyes. It's a little disappointing as this added a lot of time (and money) to the design but nevermind. At least the front baffle can withstand a nuclear blast if required.

One of the bass cabinets has just about been re-veneered. For this I used the construction type (2.5mm) oak veneer. I've never used this before, having generally stuck to the paper-thin variety. In some ways it's nicer to use; it's easier to sand and much more forgiving of substrate surface / finish.

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The design wasn't intentional but I quite like it... i'm hoping it looks even more cat-like once finished
 
Thanks James!

Today's lunch time was used to finish sanding the first cabinet and apply the first coat of finish. For the sanding process I used some great sandpaper, this one in particular was from Bosch but many equivalents are available. It's an abrasive net rather than rough paper, and the dust extraction and finish seemed to be much better. It was also quite a bit faster in terms of material removal yet has a nicer finish at the same time - very impressed! For the finish I used Rubio monocoat, which is great as even I can't go wrong with it. After a week or so it'll get another light sanding and a second coat of oil.

I accidentally mixed too much Rubio so took the opportunity to apply a first coat to some of the shelves for the rack / shelves also... They're coming together nicely but the final design is still to be decided on...







 
Another attempt at the upper baffles today. For this I veneered some 40mm oak worktop offcuts which were laying around, on the basis that the angles may not need veneered if the cuts are done nicely... In theory at least. I don't think any of the angles will be cut deep enough to make it obvious that there's numerous blocks glued together. Not the end of the world if I do end up veneering the angles either... Just quite difficult

 
For the feet they've been adorned with cheapo plastic sofa feet from Amazon. Seem to do the job nicely...

The rear baffle is now just about there too. This is fastened with threaded inserts and bolts where space permits ( each corner) and woodscrews elsewhere.







To complete the cabinet there's a handful of steps left:

Fit hypex chamber to rear baffle
Re-sand cabinet and vacuum out insides
Line with sound dampening material and wool
re-oil cabinet
Fit driver and amp module

Repeat whole thing for speaker 2...
 
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