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Spade crimp terminals versus ferrule terminals?

B

bugbear

pfm Member
I have noticed that many amp builds here use spade terminals a lot; looking around more generally (and commercially) I see a lot of hard soldered connections.

My Sugden has a mixture of soldered (top) multi-pin connectors (left and right) and screwed blocks (bottom).

psu_comps by plybench, on Flickr

I've also noticed (via a you tube video!) bootlace ferrules, which can be crimped either 4 or 6 sided, also for use with screwed connectors.


Are there "reasons" for choosing one over the other?

Is the prevalence of spades in this forum simple due to Naim practice?

BugBear
 
I suspect it's just a Naim thing. As long as it's a "good" connection, then you're fine.
  • Soldering makes a better connection, but it's inconvenient (especially if you need to switch things up).
  • Spades are convenient, but they're an extra step (requiring both the connectors and the crimping tools).
  • The terminal blocks are most convenient, but getting multi-stranded wire safely into the connector can be precarious. In one of my recent builds, I had a single hot strand avoid insertion, which shorted to the chassis. Fortunately it just blew the fuse and no harm was done. That's why I use ferrules now, when multi-stranded wire meets terminal blocks. Here's what I added to my arsenal.
 
bootlace ferrules are important if you are terminating soft multi strand cooper into screw terminals as it's very easy to crush and break the individual strands. I always use them, unlike almost every other electrician I've stumbled across. Mind you they cost at least £0.02 each.
 
Ian G said:
bootlace ferrules are important if you are terminating soft multi strand cooper into screw terminals as it's very easy to crush and break the individual strands. I always use them, unlike almost every other electrician I've stumbled across. Mind you they cost at least £0.02 each.
Click to expand...
What's the difference between 4 and 6 sided ferrule crimpers?

Looking in Amazon, I find that IWISS do both, at the same price, so it can't just be a question of better/worse.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01A2UZS22/?tag=pinkfishmedia-21

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01A0T08AC/?tag=pinkfishmedia-21

BugBear
 
This site contains affiliate links for which pink fish media may be compensated.
I guess it may make a difference with some of the smaller terminals and push fit connectors but probably not much in general use.
 
Screw terminals are made for bare wire, you get a better connection than with soldered wire ends of ferrules, unless they're beefy ferrule specific designs.
 
You don't solder ferrules. "boot lace ferrules" are I believe what we are talking about and they are good for use with screw terminals.
 
Interesting video. I’m tempted to investigate further as I have several items that use vintage three pin Bulgin mains connector and these things are just the worst design fail on so many levels. The mains lead connects to the three hollow terminals via a screw, but it is even worse than usual in that it is pushing the lead down a hole with sharp edges, so it can easily cut the wires. This coupled by non-existent strain relief helps them live up to their reputation of being absolutely lethal. Mine are safe enough as they are very carefully assembled and actually have a strain relief, but they’d be even better with a bootlace ferrule between the bare-wire and the screw. I’m not certain I’m quite obsessive enough to buy a crimper, ferrules and do them all again given the entirely safe stable environment I use them in (Leak hi-fi amps), but if I was gigging a vintage Marshall, Hiwatt or whatever I’d do it just for increased safety. One of my first electric shocks was plugging one of these things into an amp (one someone else had wired up, I’m way neater, but I still wouldn’t trust it in a gig environment!).
 
I used to work with cranes in a nuclear safety environment. We ended up fitting ferrules to all the panels as much to prevent corrosion as well as better connection. Only problems ever had was running out of wire as they would need remade after years of wear and tear.
But big improvement in sensitive control and calibration panels
 
Tony L said:
Interesting video. I’m tempted to investigate further as I have several items that use vintage three pin Bulgin mains connector and these things are just the worst design fail on so many levels. The mains lead connects to the three hollow terminals via a screw, but it is even worse than usual in that it is pushing the lead down a hole with sharp edges, so it can easily cut the wires. This coupled by non-existent strain relief helps them live up to their reputation of being absolutely lethal. Mine are safe enough as they are very carefully assembled and actually have a strain relief, but they’d be even better with a bootlace ferrule between the bare-wire and the screw. I’m not certain I’m quite obsessive enough to buy a crimper, ferrules and do them all again given the entirely safe stable environment I use them in (Leak hi-fi amps), but if I was gigging a vintage Marshall, Hiwatt or whatever I’d do it just for increased safety. One of my first electric shocks was plugging one of these things into an amp (one someone else had wired up, I’m way neater, but I still wouldn’t trust it in a gig environment!).
Click to expand...

I've always wondered how they got past even the lax health and safety of the time....
 
So - to the ferrule-philes and ferrule-users on this thread; I'm sold.

Should I buy a 4 sided or 6 sided crimper?

BugBear
 
The (very expensive) Wiha one the guy used on the video is 6-sided, as it appears are others at that price such as this Knipex. I guess a six sided ferrule is less like trying to fit a square peg in a round hole, but I doubt it matters that much as long as you use the right size for the cable and fitting. I am kind of tempted to get one of the cheaper 6-way ones linked upthread as I suspect it would come in very useful now and again.
 
This site contains affiliate links for which pink fish media may be compensated.
Arkless Electronics said:
I've always wondered how they got past even the lax health and safety of the time....
Click to expand...

Indeed but remember the 2 pin 5amp Clix plugs, where not only could you unscrew the cover while it was inserted into the socket but the cover was responsible for clamping the wires into the pins so you had the ability to remake the connections without removing the plug from live socket.

They were men back in the day.....


https://www.plugsocketmuseum.nl/OldBritish2.html
 
We use spades for high currents, speakers, power DC and power AC, I have since Inca Tech days, but at Magnum all was solder for Mr Relph a penny here and there was in his pocket.
I use insulated spade wire holders (the name slips me sorry) female, I also used them on my Solar power packs at home but with heat shrink as well to try and keep water out.
I also heat shrink any thing over 50VAC and DC just to be safe. With a slither of hot melt stick it binds very well, try it.
 
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