Well done Garf, excellent job, you'll enjoy them for years. My speaker search finished when I got my Ergo's up and running, it will only start again if I get a much bigger room for the music system, Jame's would then be my first port of call.
Enjoy them,
Ashley
Flat-pack ain't too bad. If a man put his skills/tools/resources to good use to maintain harmony at home, it must be a good thing. For my sins of building a truck-load of loudspeakers and collecting a garageful of tools, I built a 50 sqm deck for the family. Took me all the spare time I had between Christmas 2006 and Easter 2007.I've been enjoying the thrills of flat-pack for two days. I've two bedrooms to fit out and my other half is great for, 'You know Garf an extra shelf in that wardrobe would be useful.', or 'Would it be possible to fit it right in to the corner/the other way round/on the other side of the room/etc.'
The series resistor works in tandem with the resistance (together with the resonance trap) in parallel. Be wary of changing this value too greatly. +/- 25% should be a sensible limit.However, I'm looking to tweak that tweeter resistor in due course, 'cos I can! I can't remember what I set it at during the build.
If you are finding the bottom end still a bit too thumpy for your liking, that would indicate to me you need a lower system Q. The easiest way to achieve this is to increase electrical damping by replacing the woofer inductor with one of a lower DCR (same inductance) to give better amplifier control. Madisound makes a steel laminate inductor with half the DCR of the iron core you are using. Finding space for it might pose a little challenge, but I'm sure you'll work something out. I'm certain it will produce a dryer bass.I did have a happy hour yesterday adding a more stuffing to the bass bins. I was finding the bass a touch boomy and still a little thumpy in the lower reaches ... Sadly I've only had a short time to listen to gauge the effect of the changes, one half an album (LP).
Sure. Push on the woofer cone with about as much force as you would to close, say, a drawer. Hold that force constant and see if the woofer sinks in over a short time. If it does, and it returns to the normal resting position slowly, that indicates a leak. If it sinks very slowly and returns to rest in more than 5 seconds, the leak is insignificant. Anything less might contribute to incorrect bass loading. If you have a perfect seal, the woofer will not sink in under constant force, but will have the effect of a linear air spring, which is what you'll feel. I hope I have explained it reasonably clearly.Checking for leaks - I was very careful about sealing the inner box. The overlapping joints between the inner and outer boxes I'm sure helped. I'm quite certain that I have no problems there. But pushing the speaker cone in, now I don't know what I'm expected to feel, could you explain a little more please.
OK, it either sounds like you have a very good seal or a crappy one. I'm inclined to believe the former. If they didn't sink in slowly with a constant force/push over several tens of seconds, but spring back immediately when you release the force, then all is good. The key here is to push the cone in (gently) and see if the enclosed air can find a way out of the enclosure. With a good seal, you should feel a far stiffer resistance than the drivers themselves normally offer. No need to find back-stops though.Cone pushing - Well, I push 'em in and they spring back out, <0.5s. I do have to push 'em both quite hard (all relative before I hear you scream!). Even if I hold them in for say 5 secs then the spring back out <0.5s. I believe I could push 'em to their back stops with a far amount of force mind you, but I haven't.
Leaks, if you have them, are mostly around panel joints and wiring holes.One thing I did notice was that the neoprene sealing tape was quite flat around the bass units.
It's OK to stuff the cabinet completely. Just make sure the stuffing is not overly compressed. Otherwise, it has the opposite effect. Sounds like you have achieved a better result.The stuffing appears to have done the trick, in fact I may have stuffed 'em a bit too much. One change from your original design was that I stuck carpet underlay to the side and back walls behind the bass unit and in the little pocket above it.
I love hearing about things like that too.As a consequence of stuffing last night I was just running through a couple of Hendrix albums and was amazed to hear that a previously heard bass 'slide' did in fact have about 6 bass notes in it. I just love finding things like that.
If the stuffing has addressed your concerns, I'd suggest you leave the inductor change out for now. The change to the electrical damping is quite dramatic and it might swing too far to the lean and light side. But if you're itching to fiddle, now that the build is finished, I guess it couldn't hurt to experiment.It appears that I have just about cured the thump, the touch of boom is my room (positively convinced now). However I am tempted by those Steel Laminate inductors, only $17.55 each. I could squeeze those in pretty easily.
Speaking of experimentation, the original design called for a 4.0 ohm R3051. If you aren't finding the treble overly emphasised, you could try lifting the output a little. It might help balance the bottom-end too.For the resistor R3051 I bought these resistor values: 5, 6, 3.3, 4.7, 5.6 and 3.5 ohm. I have the 4.7 ohms installed at the moment.
Leaks, if you have them, are mostly around panel joints and wiring holes.
I thought you did quite well, really.I just don't have the words to describe the change.
The M26WR is good for 89dB/2.83V @ 1m. Should be at least twice the sensitivity (+3dB) compared to ES14s. If you think that is loud, you should hear what a quad of M26WRs do.James, how sensitive are these speakers? I never get my 32.5 volume dial past 9 o'clock and there's plenty of sound pressure.