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pfm Picture A Week (PAW) 2014

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Thanks guys. Haven't been to Berlin since 1992. No idea what I did with the photos I took. I think I took quite a few round the Brandenberg Gate. Can't remember the station. The airport building in South Berlin was quite funky.
 
Been playing around with jpeg settings on the X100 - there is still much, much more to learn about this wonderful little camera and how it responds to all the options on offer...

 
Agree. I love it. I've had mine since August and I still learn something new each time I take it out. Then I started using Raw Photo Processor in preference to Lightroom to develop the Raw files and I was even more blown away :cool:

Gromit said:
Been playing around with jpeg settings on the X100 - there is still much, much more to learn about this wonderful little camera and how it responds to all the options on offer...
Click to expand...
 
Thank's again, Cliff

How do I get the range of tones? Hmm, the way I shoot is probably where I start - On the Fuji X100s I've changed the way I shoot. I used to shoot full manual on all my cameras and use a sekonic light meter. However, on the Fuji Here's my settings

- Jpeg + Raw
- Aperture Priority
- Auto ISO 200-3200 shutter @125th minimum
- Dynamic Range 400
- Light meter set to spot
- And the main one - I use the EVF exclusively

My favorite B&W setting on the X100S for most situations are:

- Film simulation: B-R (B&W Red Filter)
- Sharpness: +1
- Highlight Tone: 0
- Shadow Tone: +1
- Noise Reduction: -2

This will give you a fairly contrasty B&W look when exposed correctly.

Set the camera to show B&W on the back or in the EVF. When you switch your JPG to B&W you will see a B&W image in the EVF - LCD preview. Now use the exposure compensation dial (in Aperture priority mode) to increase or decrease the exposure and get a more predominant black or white look.

You can scope the scene over the most important highlight and the EVF shows you WYSWYG. Lock down the exposure when you're happy, and that's pretty much it, straight out of the camera!

Fill Flash works great with the above method, too!

It feels like cheating, but at the end of the day, it's all about the photographs.

In Lightroom I tweak the exposure and contrast FIRST - this is important because the following sliders operate differently in Lightroom 5 - you get more out of the highlight and shadow sliders by doing so.

I hope this hasn't come across as teaching folk how to suck eggs etc

I know that Cliff, as well as few others here, have probably been shooting for as long as me, 40 odd years now and I'm still learning!
 
Interesting. Are you then tweaking the JPEG file in Lightroom or the Raw? I just wondered as those settings are predominantly JPEG settings, or are those settings helping you to get closer to the final look in camera and making the final Lightroom Raw adjustments easier? Hope that makes sense. Lovely b&w by the way.

Paulicus said:
Thank's again, Cliff

How do I get the range of tones? Hmm, the way I shoot is probably where I start - On the Fuji X100s I've changed the way I shoot. I used to shoot full manual on all my cameras and use a sekonic light meter. However, on the Fuji Here's my settings

- Jpeg + Raw
- Aperture Priority
- Auto ISO 200-3200 shutter @125th minimum
- Dynamic Range 400
- Light meter set to spot
- And the main one - I use the EVF exclusively

My favorite B&W setting on the X100S for most situations are:

- Film simulation: B-R (B&W Red Filter)
- Sharpness: +1
- Highlight Tone: 0
- Shadow Tone: +1
- Noise Reduction: -2

This will give you a fairly contrasty B&W look when exposed correctly.

Set the camera to show B&W on the back or in the EVF. When you switch your JPG to B&W you will see a B&W image in the EVF - LCD preview. Now use the exposure compensation dial (in Aperture priority mode) to increase or decrease the exposure and get a more predominant black or white look.

You can scope the scene over the most important highlight and the EVF shows you WYSWYG. Lock down the exposure when you're happy, and that's pretty much it, straight out of the camera!

Fill Flash works great with the above method, too!

It feels like cheating, but at the end of the day, it's all about the photographs.

In Lightroom I tweak the exposure and contrast FIRST - this is important because the following sliders operate differently in Lightroom 5 - you get more out of the highlight and shadow sliders by doing so.

I hope this hasn't come across as teaching folk how to suck eggs etc

I know that Cliff, as well as few others here, have probably been shooting for as long as me, 40 odd years now and I'm still learning!
Click to expand...
 
HI, Chipbuty

I tweak the Raw, which are in colour obviously - I flatten them to B&W in Lightroom, then apply a preset which I created to try and match the out of camera jpeg. It doesn't always work out, but the settings I've given above will give me good results that I like, and can be used without any real processing in Lightroom.

If I'm using just the Raw, I always have to process them exposure wise, especially so with using the DR 400 feature - as a general rule though, I never spend more than a couple of minutes on image tweaking.

Exposure is what it is, and I don't always get it right.
 
Cheers. When I was new to the X100 I tested the in camera JPEGs and had the DR set to auto and had the camera set to Raw+JPEG. Of course I had a shock when I imported all those DR 400 Raw images which of course were pretty underexposed! But no problem for these cameras as you know, just increased the exposure in Lightroom and it's still very clean.




Paulicus said:
HI, Chipbuty

I tweak the Raw, which are in colour obviously - I flatten them to B&W in Lightroom, then apply a preset which I created to try and match the out of camera jpeg. It doesn't always work out, but the settings I've given above will give me good results that I like, and can be used without any real processing in Lightroom.

If I'm using just the Raw, I always have to process them exposure wise, especially so with using the DR 400 feature - as a general rule though, I never spend more than a couple of minutes on image tweaking.

Exposure is what it is, and I don't always get it right.
Click to expand...
 
Outside the Brittania pub, Horseshoe Pass near Llangollen. Taken between Christmas and New Year. It really did look this grim.

Olympus E-PM1.

i-9m5FDnq-XL.jpg
 
Paulicus said:
..

- Film simulation: B-R (B&W Red Filter)
- Sharpness: +1
- Highlight Tone: 0
- Shadow Tone: +1
- Noise Reduction: -2

This will give you a fairly contrasty B&W look when exposed correctly.

Set the camera to show B&W on the back or in the EVF. When you switch your JPG to B&W you will see a B&W image in the EVF - LCD preview. Now use the exposure compensation dial (in Aperture priority mode) to increase or decrease the exposure and get a more predominant black or white look.

...

I hope this hasn't come across as teaching folk how to suck eggs etc

I know that Cliff, as well as few others here, have probably been shooting for as long as me, 40 odd years now and I'm still learning!
Click to expand...

Handy tips. I was using the OVF mainly on the X100 when I had one. I think V3 of the firmware on the XPro1 now gives a better idea of the exposure on the histogram in OVF mode

As for shooting time. I first picked up a camera in about 1968 for a junior school project. It was mandatory to take photos for my university course (1978-1981) as part of design projects. Most of my exposure settings used to be guesswork to be honest. When I went digital with the Fuji S1 in 2001 I started using aperture priority a lot more. Newer digital cameras have 2 or 3 stops in hand when it comes to exposure so it's pretty safe to under expose or even to expose for 1ev under the highlights - and then throw away a stop of DR on the lowlights.
 
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